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5 


MEXICO 


TOURS  THROUGH 

THE  EGYPT  OF  THE  NEW  WORLD 


By  REAU  CAMPBELL 

AUTHOR  OF  “ AROUND  THE  CORNER  TO  CUBA;”  “WINTER  CITIES  IN  A SUMMER 
LAND;”  “RAMBLES  FOR  SUMMER  DAYS;”  “54;”  “THE  CORNER  OF  THE  CON- 
TINENT;” “VI  AND  JACK;”  “HOOK  AND  I;"  “CUBA  IN  EASY  LESSONS;” 
“PALM  LEAVES  OF  FLORIDA:  A TRIP  FROM  PASSADUMKEAG  TO 
OKEECHOBEE;”  “STATEROOM  33:  A TALE  OF  TWO  KEYS;” 

“SISTERS  OR  SWEETHEARTS;”  “RIDES  AND  RAMBLES 
ON  STATEN  ISLAND;”  AND  EDITOR  OF  THE 
“POINTER ;”  ETC.,  ETC.,  ETC. 


\ 


1890: 

C.  G.  CRAWFORD, 
New  York. 


PrfsS  OF  C.  G.  CRAWFORD 


# 


[Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  189",  in  the  ofHcc  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress 

at  Washington.] 


Mexico. 

THE  EGYPT  OF  THE  NEW  WORLD. 


^LDER  than  Egypt  ” is  the  oft-quoted  simile,  and  as  some  ancient  and 
undecipherable  hieroglyphic-graven  image  is  unearthed,  it  adds  to  the 
indecision  as  to  whether  Egypt  is  older  than  Mexico  or  Mexico  older 
than  Egypt  as  a land  of  the  earlier  civilization.  The  ancient  history  of 
Mexico  is  j^rolific  of  legend  and  romance,  and  its  reading  as  fascinating 
as  that  of  her  elder  sister  (if,  indeed,  Egypt  is  the  elder),  and  when  it 
goes  back  to  the  Aztecs  and  the  Toltecs  and  beyond,  the  stories  are  as  similar  as  are 
the  pyramids,  the  temples  and  the  idols,  and  the  looking  upon  some  city  of  low  flat- 
roofed  houses  spread  upon  a plain  whose  trees  are  feathery  palms  recalls  descrip- 
tions of  the  land  of  Pharaohs. 

It  is  not  possible  here  to  give  an  idea,  even  in  the  abstract,  of  the  legendary  lore 
or  historical  fact,  but  who  has  read  it  will  And  his  travels  here  doubly  delightful,  and 
as  he  compares  this  Egypt  with  the  other,  find  the  question  grow  upon  him,  was  this 
first  or  that,  as  a civilized  nation  ? The  evidences  are  here  of  ages  upon  ages,  cut  in 
imperishable  stone,  although  there  lacks  some  links  of  literature  to  couple  the  more 
ancient  people  with  those  of  whom  there  is  record.  This  makes  the  attraction 
greater  that  there  is  a mystery  of  origin  and  the  love  of  it,  and  the  student  finds 
thus  much  more  than  equable  climate  and  scenic  splendor  to  bring  him  to  the  land 
of  the  Montezumas. 

The  American  who  travels  has  been  a hunter  after  the  antique  as  well  as  w:rm 
weather  in  winter,  and  when  he  could  combine  the  two  his  journey  was  altogether  a 
pleasure  trip  ; he  found  them  both  in  a mild  way  on  the  peninsula  of  Florida,  but  the 
old  Castle  of  San  Marco,  at  St.  Augustine,  was  the  most  ancient  antiquity — in  fact  was 
almost  the  only  one  ; the  weather  was  warm  enough  excepting  an  occasional 
“norther,”  and  the  territory  of  pleasure  travel  small.  It  was  extended  to  Cuba,  and 
at  last;  when  the  great  railways  to  Mexico  were  completed  and  he  could  find  a verit- 
able Egypt  of  antiquities,  and  an  Italy  of  sunny  skies  without  crossing  the  seas,  he 
was  content  and  his  numbers  increased  greatly. 

As  to  latitude,  Mexico  occupies  precisely  the  same  position  as  Egypt,  between  the 
15th  and  80th  parallels  north,  and  the  Tropic  of  Cancer  passes  through  both 
countries  at  their  centres.  But  this  comparison  is  in  favor  of  Mexico.  Although  that 
country  lies  near  and  partly  within  the  tropics,  the  high  altitude  of  a greater  portion 
where  the  lines  of  pleasure  travel  run,  is  such  that  a perpetual  spring  time  is  the 
average  of  the  weather,  and  while  the  traveler  visits  the  scenes  of  the  charming  read- 
ings that  have  been  his,  he  finds  a clime  that  is  to  his  liking,  conducive  at  once  to 
his  health  and  pleasure,  and  his  travels  hence  can  have  but  one  result  - a result  that 
is  apparent  and  goes  without  saying. 

As  is  generally  known,  passports  are  not  required  in  Mexico.  The  money  of  the 


6 


MEXICO. 


country  is  all  tliat  is  required  and  only  enougli  to  pay  expenses  to  the  capital  should  be 
purchased  at  the  border.  This  may  be  done  at  the  ticket  offices  of  the  railroads  or  in  the 
restaurants.  American  money  always  commands  a premium,  and  bank  drafts  are  in 
demand.  The  rate  of  exchange  may  not  be  quoted  here,  as  it  is  constantly  changing, 
but  it  is  usually  from  thirty  to  forty  per  cent.  The  currency  most  in  use  is  silver,  but 
bank  notes  are  in  circulation  among  those  able  to  own  them.  Some  of  the  paper  money 
is  not  accepted  beyond  the  limits  of  the  States  where  issued,  but  the  notes  issued 
by  the  Banco  Nacional  and  those  of  the  Bank  of  London,  Mexico  and  South  America 
are  good  anywhere.  For  every-day  use  silver  is  recommended. 

The  metric  system  is  the  legal  coinage,  but  instead  of  speaking  of  cents  the  number 
reales  are  named  in  giving  prices,  clos  reales,  twenty-five  cents  ; cuatro  reales,  fifty  cents  ; 
seis  reales , seventy-five  cents  ; and  un  peso,  one  dollar.  The  smallest  copper  coin  is 
a tlac  \ one  and  one-half  cents,  except  the  centavo,  one  ce:  t piece  ; a cuartilla  is  three 
cents  ; a medio,  six  and  one-fourth  cents  ; a real,  twelve  and  one- half  cents  ; a peseta, 
twenty-five  cents  ; a toston,  fifty  cents ; and  a peso  is  a dollar.  The  gold  coins  are 
seldom  seen,  the  onza  de  oro  is  sixteen  dollars  ; the  media  onza,  eight  dollars  ; the 
pistola,  four  dollars  ; the  escudo  de  oro,  two  dollars  ; the  escudito  de  oro , one  dollar. 

Change  is  made  to  a nicety,  and  if  the  line  divides  a tlaco  it  is  cut  in  two  with  a 
hatchet. 

These,  with  the  money  of  the  country  and  such  clothing  as  is  used  in  the 
United  States  for  spring  and  autumn  wear,  a winter  tour  of  all  Mexico  may  be 
made.  If  the  journey  is  extended  through  the  “hot  country”  on  the  coast,  and 
if  any  stay  is  to  be  made,  summer  clothes  will  be  most  comfortable. 

There  is  one  thing  every  tourist  feels  called  upon  to  take  with  him  or  her 
to  Mexico — the  phrase  book.  It  is  amusing  to  watch  the  Spanish  students  in  every 
Pullman  car,  and.  yet  more  amusing  to  observe  the  violent  struggles  with  the  pro- 
nunciation and  the  riotous  efforts  to  make  themselves  understood.  I heard  one 
lady  call  her  companion’s  attention  to  the  “jackals  at  Jimmy -nez  ” and  was  deeply 
chagrined  when  a more  apt  scholar  advised  her  to  say  the  “ha-kals  at  him-a-nez  ” 
when  she  referred  to  the  jacals  at  Jiminez. 

I bought  a phrase  book,  too*;  the  success  attending  its  use  was  not  brilliant.  I 
got  along  not  so  well  even  as  did  one  fine  old  American  on  the  train  with  me. 
He  thought  if  he  spoke  loud  the  Mexicans  could  understand  him.  He  yelled  all 
the  way  from  El  Paso  to  the  City  of  Mexico. 

I felt  that  I would  be  all  right  if  I could  only  talk  to  the  people,  so  I bought  a 
Spanish  phrase  book,  as  did  all  the  other  passengers. 

I studied  diligently  the  phrase  “ Como  se  llama  eso  ? ” so  I could  ask  a man  “What 
do  you  call  that  ? ” or  quanto,  how  much  ? But  I only  got  into  trouble  when  I 
sprang  my  only  Spanish  on  a native.  If  he  understood  me,  he  not  only  told  me 
what  it  was  called,  or  what  the  price  was,  but  gave  me  a lot  of  other  unintelligible 
information  that  was  as  so  much  Greek  to  me. 

On  my  way  to  Guadaloupe,  I noticed  the  shrines  along  the  way  and  said  to  the 
conductor  of  the  horse-car  : “ Como  se  llama  eso?  ” I suppose  he  told  me  what  they 
were,  and  in  all  human  probability  when  and  by  whom  they  were  built.  He  sat 
down  by  me  and  talked,  and  I said  “ Si  senor  ” all  the  way  to  Guadaloupe. 

As  I stood  in  the  doorway  of  the  Iturbide,  a man  came  up  and  said  : “ Deme  usted 
un  cerillo .”  I said  : “ No  compr&ndo ,”  because  I didn’t.  Then  he  said  : “ Donnez- 
moi  une  alumette . ” Still  I replied  : “ No  comprendo .”  Then  he  said  : “Gimme  a 
match,”  and  I asked  him  why  he  didn’t  say  so  before,  he  might  have  had  a light 
long  ago. 

I was  trying  to  find  my  way  on  foot  to  the  Mexican  Central  Railway  station  and 
got  lost.  I saw  a well-dressed  native  approaching  and  commenced  to  brush  up  my 


THE  CATHEDRAL.  CITY  OF  MEXICO. 


8 


MEXICO. 


Spanish.  “ Como  se  llama  eso?  ” wouldn’t  do.  I must  try  something  else,  and  when 

he  came  up,  I said  : “ Estacion , ferro  carril , Central  Mexicano , Central 

He  said  : “ What  station  do  you  want  to  find  ? ” 

But  really  when  I learned  the  money,  the  numerals  and  how  to  put  them  to- 
gether, and  to  read  a bill  of  fare,  I found  that  with  my  “ Quanto ?”  and  “ Como  se 
llama  eso?”  I could  get  along  very  well,  especially  with  the  aid  of  the  bell  boy  at 
the  hotel,  who  taught  me  more  than  the  phrase  book  about  keys,  paper,  ink, 
etc.,  who,  by  the  way,  is  a jack-of-all-trades  about  the  house  ; he  thinks  his  life  is 
made  of  all  work.  He  is  chambermaid,  bootblack,  laundryman,  messenger,  etc. — 
willing  and  obliging,  and  a professor  of  Spanish  in  a small  way. 

I have  concluded,  then,  that  with  this  amount  of  Spanish  education,  a spring 
overcoat,  and  a light  suit  of  clothes,  that  the  tour  of  Mexico  may  be  made  without 
trouble. 


Old  Cathedral  or  San  Francisco,  City  or  Mexico. 


MEXICAN  MANNERS  AND  MANNERISMS. 


pt  HAD  heard  of  the  courtesy  and  hospitality  of  the  Spaniard,  and  remembered 
(M  once  when  I had  entered  a Spanish  home  of  being  welcomed  and  told  “this 
house  is  yours,”  and  when  I had  admired  some  object,  of  being  informed  that 
it  was  mine,  and  when  I came  to  Mexico  I found  the  descendants  of  old  Spain 
had  lost  no  whit  of  cordiality,  and  the  welcome  at  place  of  business  or  the  home  was 
warm  and  spontaneous  to  a degree,  and  my  memories  of  Mexico  are  pleasant  ones. 

The  dress  of  the  Mexican  is  a picturesque  one,  of  which  the  wide  sombrei'o  is  the 
feature,  often  richly  trimmed  in  gold  or  silver  lace,  with  a crest  or  monogram  on  the 
crown  sometimes,  this  elaborate  head-gear  often  costing  fifty  to  sixty  dollars.  A 
short  jacket  coming  to  or  a little  below  the  waist  is  also  trimmed  in  gold  and  silver  ; 
the  tight-fitting  trousers,  wide  at  the  sharp  pointed  shoe,  have  two  to  three  rows  of 
gilt  buttons.  The  complete  costume  always  includes  a zerape  of  many  colors  ; a 
zerape  is  a blanket  or  shawl  worn  over  the  shoulders,  thrown  in  knightly  fashion, 
with  the  fringed  and  tasseled  end  over  the  left  shoulder.  Men  of  ail  classes  wear  the 
zerape.  Coats  are  almost  unknown,  except  among  the  better  classes . The  principal 
and  favorite  part  of  a costume  is  the  sombrero.  A Mexican  may  go  barefooted,  and 
wear  cotton  trousers,  but  he’ll  have  a thirty-dollar  hat  if  he  can  get  it.  The  man  on 
horseback  in  Mexico  is  a picturesque  figure  in  gold  lace  and  buttons,  and  the  trap- 
pings of  his  horse  and  saddle  are  most  elaborate.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  this  style 
is  giving  place  to  the  more  modern  American  or  English  dress. 

A native  paper  notes  the  passage  of  an  ordinance  by  the  City  Council  of  San  Luis 
Potosi,  requiring  the  inhabitants  to  wear  pants — at  least  those  who  are  built  that  way. 
It  is  not  to  be  inferred  by  the  modest  tourist  that  the  San  Luisian  went  without  that 
important  part  of  a costume  altogether,  but  what  they  did  wear  could  hardly  be 
called  pants. 

There  are  dudes  in  Mexico.  They  call  a dude  ltun  lagartijo.  ” He  wears  the  most 
gold  lace  and  buttons,  the  tightest  trousers  and  the  widest  hat.  In  other  respects  he 
differs  not  from  the  dude  of  New  York,  and  further  space  need  not  be  wasted  here. 

For  ladies  of  high  degree,  the  Spanish  mantilla  of  black  or  white  lace  still  does  a 
fascinating  duty  in  place  of  the  hat  or  bonnet,  and  the  Spanish  costume  from  shoulder 
to  high-heeled  pointed  slipper.  The  middle  classes  wear  a black  tapalo,  a shawl 
which  is  both  wrap  and  head-gear  ; the  lower  classes  and  Indian  maidens  wear  in  the 
same  way  a scarf  of  cotton,  usually  blue  or  brown ; this  is  the  reboso.  Mexican 
womeji  are  almost  without  exception  of  fine  form,  healthy  and  robust.  There  are 
thousands  of  pretty  faces,  of  richest  color,  long  lashes,  soft  and  downy  ear-locks, 
black  as  jet,  and  with  long,  inky  black  hair.  Under  the  tapalo  or  reboso  is  many  a 
Venus  ; the  corset  is  unknown,  and  nature  forms  to  perfection. 

Ladies  ‘embrace  each  other  at  meeting,  and  kiss  on  the  cheek,  presumably  saving 
the  lips  for  other  kisses.  Men  embrace  their  friends,  and  pat  each  other  on  the  back. 
In  passing  on  the  street,  instead  saying  “ How’dy,”  they  say  “ Adios — Good-by.” 

Following  the  customs  of  their  ancestors,  the  young  people  of  Mexico  have  not 
that  freedom  of  association  as  in  America.  A young  lady  may  not  indulge  in  “steady 
company  ” and  the  young  blood  of  Mexico  may  not  call  on  his  best  girl,  as  in  this 
free  and  enlightened  country.  He  must  win  her  by  kaciendo  el  oso — playing  the  befir. 
This  does  not  mean  that  the  young  man  indulges  in  any  idiosyncrasies  of  the  bear, 
when  he  (the  bear)  catches  a victim.  At  a certain  hour  in  the  day  the  devoted  lover 


CANCION 


Introduction.  Moderato. 


3 3:33 


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i.  Wh i tlier  so  swift  - iy  flies  the  tim  • id  swal  - low,  What  distant  bourne  seeks  her  un  • tir  • ing 
/.  A ■ don-de  i - rd  ve  - loz  y fa  - ti  - ga  - - da  La  go  - Ion  - dri  - na  que  de.aqut  se 


» * f ♦ ♦ T» ♦ f ♦ » . 


szzj !* 


wing?  To  reach  it  safe,  what  needle  does  she  fol  - low,  When  darkness  wraps  the  poor,  wee,  storm-tossed 

va  ? Oh,  si  en  e i ai  - re  ge-mi-rd  es  - tra  - via  - da  Buscando  a - bn  - go  y no  lo  en  - con  - tra- 


‘T-  .*  'i  * be 

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2mo. 


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thing? Whither  so 

r<i, A - </<?«  - de  t- 


thing? To  build  her  nest  near  to  my  couch,  I’ll 

rd, / unto  a mi  le  cho  le  pon  - dre  su 


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fall 

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her,  For  I’m  an  ex » - ile  sad,  too  sad  to  weep; 

do  Oh  / Cie  - lo  tan  r - ‘“J-  to  sin  po  - der  vo  - lar. 


To  build  her  weep 
Junto  d mi  lac. 


S- 


tl  t ~ 


A 


a.  My  fatherland  is  dear,  but  I too  left  it; 

, Far  am  I from  the  spot  where  I was  born ; 
Cheerless  is  life,  fierce  storms  of  joy  bereft  it ; 

Made  me  an  exile  lifelong  and  forlorn.. 

Come  then  to  me,  sweet  feathered  pilgrim  stranger : 
Oh ! let  me  clasp  thee  to  my  loving  breast, 

And  list  thy  warbling  low,  secure  from  danger, 
Unwonted  tears  bringing  relief  and  rest* 


2.  Deji  tambien  mi patria  idolatrada, 

Esa  mansion  que  me  miro  nacer } 

Mi  vida  es  hoy  err  ante  y angusfiada, 

Y ya  no  puedo  d mi'mansion  volver} 
Ah  f ven,  querida^amable peregriha 
Mi  corazon  al  tuyo  estrechare, 

Oiri  tu  canto  tiema  golondrina  , 
Recordarl  mi  patria , y luego  llorarl , 


12 


MEXICO . 


comes  under  the  lady’s  window,  and  when  she  comes  to  the  casement  he  may  stand 
and  look  at  her,  exchange  glances,  smiles  and  nods,  go  away  and  come  back  again 
to-morrow  and  do  it  all  over  again.  If  he  is  faithful  and  keeps  this  up  for  two  or 
three  years,  he  may  finally  be  allowed  to  call  and  see  her  in  the  presence  of  another 
member  of  the  family.  If  all  goes  smoothly  they  “marry  and  live  happy  to  the  end 
of  their  days,”  as  in  the  fairy  story. 

Smoking  is  permitted  almost  everywhere — in  the  restaurant  and  hotels  ; at  the 
theatre  and  on  the  cars  (except  Pullmans) ; some  ladies  indulge,  but  the  custom  is  go- 
ing out — though  it  is  always  the  polite  thing  to  offer  your  cigarette  case — this  reminds 
me  of  matches.  Mexico  matches  light  at  both  ends,  and  if  a native  asks  for  a light,  he 
will  always  return  the  unused  end  with  an  intricate  wave  of  the  hand  in  thanks. 

Politeness  and  courtesy  are  characteristic  of  Mexico,  and  it  is  seen  constantly 
everywhere ; a Mexican  will  not  enter  a door  or  pass  up  a staircase  ahead  of  his 
companion  without  an  insisting,  “ Ease , senor”  urgently  put,  till  it  is  seen  that  one 
must  go  first,  and  then  age  or  rank  or  guest  takes  precedence.  The  salutations  cn 
the  street,  in  the  paseo  or  the  alameda  “ buenos  dias”  “ buenas  noches  ” and  of  “ adios,” 
are  continuous  and  unending,  and  meeting  friends  embrace  and  cordially  salute 
with  “ Mi  amigo , mi  amigo.” 

They  are  a music-loving  people,  whose  souls  are  moved  by  a concord  of  sweet 
sounds,  and  if  the  love  of  music  is  the  test,  few  Mexicans  are  fit  for  treason, 
stratagems  and  spoils.  No  jacal  is  too  humble  but  what  its  adobe  walls  (if  they  have 
ears)  listen  to  the  tinkle  of  the  guitar,  and  no  village  so  small  but  its  band  of  native 
musicians  will  play  in  the  little  alameda  in  the  evenings.  In  the  larger  towns  and 
great  cities  there  is  music  in  some  plaza  or  park  every  day  by  the  military  bands — 
an  example  set  by  the  Government  in  giving  the  people  music,  that  might  be  emulated 
by  the  United  States  greatly  to  its  credit. 

There  be  fiddlers  in  Mexico  and  some  violinists.  The  fiddlers  sometimes  come 
under  the  car  window  of  a passing  train,  and  in  hopes  of  a tlaco  thrown,  give  samples 
of  native  music  “ as  she  is  played.”  There  are  some  who  carp  at  these  crude  musi- 
cians, but  they  are  those  who  do  not  appreciate  fiddling  as  an  art  or  the  difficulties 
thereof.  Themistocles  said  he  “ could  not  fiddle,  but  he  could  make  a small  town  a 
great  city,”  proving  that  the  attainment  of  proficiency  in  fiddling  is  attended  by 
hard  work  and  the  results  not  to  be  sneezed  at.  When  the  weird  sounds  come  into 
your  window  let  the  tlacos  go,  for  whatever  work  the  player  may  not  have  done,  he 
has  learned  the  fiddle. 

There  is  music  everywhere,  there’s  music  in  the  air,  a music  peculiar  to  the 
country  and  the  people,  a music  of  song,  of  stringed  and  wind  instruments  that  plays 
at  morning,  noon  and  night.  There  are  songs  of  praise  and  songs  of  mirth,  and  love 
songs  ; and  it  may  be  there  are  topical  songs,  and  perhaps  a Mexican  Francis  Wilson, 
or  De  Woolf  Hopper ; but  the  gags  are  gags  of  Spanish  wit  that  fall  but  flatly  on 
the  American  ear. 

There  are  songs  of  home  ; the  people  have  their  “Home,  sweet  home”  in  the 
notes  of  La  Golondrina  ; since  music,  heavenly  maid,  was  young,  she  hath  not  ceased 
to  soothe  the  heart  of  savage  and  civilized  man,  and  her  songs  of  home  have  been 
sweetest  and  dearest  to  his  ear.  That  song  of  “Home,  sweet  home”  is  one  that 
touches  the  American  heart  as  La  Golondrina  melts  the  Mexican  and  brings  memories 
of  his,  whether  ’twas  of  adobe  or  of  stone.  Whether  the  soft  melodies  of  La  Golon- 
drina are  picked  from  the  strings  of  a guitar,  or  senorita  sweetly  sings  the  touching 
notes,  or  organized  orchestra  fills  the  ambient  air  with  its  tuneful  tones,  all  there  is 
of  sentiment  even  in  the  stoutest,  sternest  heart,  wells  up  in  tenderness  when  La 
Golondrina’s  music  greets  the  ear,  and  brighter,  glistening  eyes  and  quicker  heart 
throbs  tell  that  the  melody  strikes  the  soul. 


THE  HISTORY  OF  BULL-FIGHTING. 


The  liistorv  of  bull-figliting  may  be  divided  into 
two  very  distinct  periods,  the  aristocratic  and  the 
popular ; the  former  extending  from  the  date  of  the 
supposed  origin  of  this  sport,  that  is  from  the  Moorish 
invasion  of  Spain,  until  1770,  the  year  of  the  Bourbon 
accession.  In  order  to  give  an  idea  of  the  ardor  with 
which,  for  several  centuries,  the  Castilian  nobility 
sought  glory  and  renown  in  such  combats,  we  will 
select  from  the  records  of  tauromachy  a few  of  the 
names  which  shine  with  the  greatest  lustre  in  this 
endless  bead-roll.  Let  us  put  foremost  two  Spanish 
sovereigns,  Charles  V.  and  Philip  IY.  Then  come  the 
dukes — Medina,  Sidonia,  Zarate,  Biano,  Sastagato ; 
the  counts — Buelma,  Yillamediana,  Tendilla,  La  Vena  ; and  the  knights — Manrique 
de  Lara,  Ramirez  de  Haro,  Juan  Chacon,  Yelada,  Fernando  de  Pizarro,  the  conqueror 
of  Peru,  etc. 

If  we  are  to  believe  certain  documents  of  the  tenth  century  relating  to  bull- 
fighting, Spanish  cavaliers,  during  the  long  periods  of  peace  wrhich  marked  the 
reigns  of  the  caliphs  Abderam  III.  and  Hakem  II.,  were  to  be  seen  in  the  same  arena 
with  Moorish  chiefs,  and  contending  with  these  latter  for  the  prizes. 

But  ere  long  the  Spaniards  left  the  Arabs  entire  possession  of  the  Roman  circuses 
— buildings  of  immense  size  of  which  traces  are  still  to  be  seen  at  Murviedo,  Merida, 
Tarragona  and  Cordova — and  throughout  the  entire  peninsula  other  arenas  were 
constructed  in  which  the  young  Castilian  nobles  could  freely  exercise  their  valor 
and  skill. 

Tauromachy  was  in  its  zenith  in  the  reign  of  Philip  IY.  The  grandson  of  Philip 
II.,  a mighty  hunter  and  bull-fighter,  troubling  himself  but  slightly  with  State 
affairs,  the  direction  of  which  he  left  entirely  to  Count  Olivares,  fought  with  much 
success  in  the  arena  in  emulation  of  his  illustrious  ancestor  Charles  V. 

The  abandonment  of  the  arena  by  the  nobility  is  generally  ascribed  to  the  influ- 
ence exercised  over  the  society  of  Madrid  by  the  Bourbon  Court.  Little  acquainted 
with  the  warlike  manners  of  the  Spanish  aristocracy,  the  reigning  family  sought, 
from,  the  moment  they  attained  to  the  throne,  to  discredit  a pastime  which  they 
deemed  so  brutalizing,  and  which  was  so  abhorrent  to  their  refined  tastes.  They 
were,  besides,  ill-pleased  to  see  the  flower  of  a nobility  with  which  they  wished  to 
be  surrounded  enter  into  such  sports  with  so  much  enthusiasm. 

, It  was  a young  torero,  named  Pedro  Romero,  who,  toward  the  end  of  the  eight- 
eenth century,  inaugurated  the  popular  period  by  compiling  for  these  performances 
a certain  set  of  rules  which  became  the  standard  code  of  bull-fighting.  Pedro 
Romero  may  reasonably  be  considered  the  real  originator  of  the  art  of  tauromachy, 
as,  up  to  the  time  when  he  formulated  his  scheme  for  conducting  these  combats, 
the  spectators  witnessed  a savage  fight  in  which  the  man,  anxious  only  for  the  death 
of  his  antagonist,  paid  no  attention  to  the  gracefulness  of  action  now  deemed  so 
necessary  to  charm  the  spectator,  but  sought  only  to  maim  the  brute  with  repeated 
wounds  in  every  part  of  its  body. 

Pedro  Romero  gave  practical  instructions  to  his  contemporaries  in  the  principles 


14 


MEXICO. 


} ■'** 


V 


£ 


of  the  art  by  an  heroic  exposure  of  his  own  life,  and  this  with  such  effect  that  his 
name  endures  in  the  annals  of  the  arena  as  that  of  the  most  illustrious  of  the  spadas 
of  Spain,  notwithstanding  the  high  renown  achieved  by  those  who  followed  in  his 
steps.  In  order  to  give  the  reader  an  idea  of  the  courage  and  extraordinary  skill  of 
Pedro  Romero,  we  reproduce  the  curious  description  of  a royal  bull-fight  in  1789, 
which  has  been  celebrated  in  verse  by  the  poet  Cerrajeria,  a faithful  disciple  of 
Gongora  y Argote,  and  in  which  our  spada  was  the  hero. 

“On  the  occasion  of  the  accession  of  Charles  IV.  to  the  throne  of  Spain,  brilliant 
displays  of  bull-fighting  were  given  at  Madrid  under  the  direction  of  the  famous 
spada,"  Pedro  Romero. 


“Who’s  Afraid?  ” 


“ There  is  ever  present  to  my  mind  the  dazzling  sight  of  the  arena  with  its  bal- 
conies filled  by  charming  ladies  and  handsome  cavaliers. 

“ On  an  immense  tribune  built  for  the  occasion  on  the  floor  of  the  circus  are 
seated  Charles  IV.  and  Queen  Maria  Louisa. 

“Their  majesties  are  surrounded  by  ladies  of  honor,  nobles,  ministers  of  State, 
ambassadors,  knights  and  guards. 

“ All  the  boxes  are  filled  by  the  nobility  ; tier  upon  tier  is  occupied  by  joyous 
students  with  their  mistresses,  soldiers,  brazen-faced  courtesans,  workingmen  with 
their  wives  in  holiday  finery,  the  pupils  of  the  toreros,  etc. 

“And  all  these  people  are  shouting,  laughing,  singing,  making  fun  of  every- 
thing, and  getting  noisily  impatient. 

“The  ganaderias  had  provided  their  best  bulls  and  the  cuadrillas  were  perfect. 
The  ground  had  never  been  better,  and  the  sun  shone  in  an  azure  sky.  Everything 
seemed  to  contribute  to  the  success  of  the  fete. 


THE  HISTORY  OF  BULL-FIGHTING. 


15 


i 


“At  the  appointed  time  the  toreros  appeared  on  the  scene.  Their  antagonist  was 
a superb  animal. 

“Pedro  Romero,  whose  reputation  was  already  glorious,  then  advanced  toward 
the  corregidor  and  asked  as  a favor  that  he  might  give  up  his  post  to  his  brother  Juan. 

“The  request  wras  granted,  and  the  young  spada  proudly  approaches  the  bull  in 
the  midst  of  plaudits  and  shouts  of  encouragement  from  the  crowd. 

“Behind  the  barrier  a young  girl  was  leaning  on  the  shoulders  of  an  old  man. 
The  two  watched  the  preliminaries  of  the  combat  in  silence,  but  their  features  were 
contracted  by  a painful  anxiety. 

“Juan  "was  still  approaching  the  bull,  when  suddenly  the  latter  rushed  at  the 
youth,  and  with  a jerk  of  his  head  tossed  him  into  the  air. 

“He  fell  heavily  to  the  ground,  while  the  brute  celebrated  his  victory  by  a pro- 
longed bellow. 

“A  cry  of  terror  arose  on  all  sides,  and  at 
the  same  time  the  old  man  was  seen  to  clear 
the  barrier  and  run  into  the  arena. 

“ He  knelt  over  the  wounded  youth,  and, 
beside  himself  with  grief,  he  tried  first  with 
his  hands,  then  with  his  lips,  to  stanch  the 
blood  which  gushed  from  a terrible  wound. 

“But  Pedro  Romero,  snatching  up  the 
sword  which  his  brother  had  dropped,  cried 
out  to  the  distracted  old  man  : ‘ Father,  pray 
to  the  Holy  Virgin  for  me.  I am  going  to 
kill  the  bull  or  die.  ’ 

“At  the  same  time  a woman’s  voice  was 
heard  : ‘ For  my  sake,  and  for  your  chil- 
dren’s, Pedro,  I beg  you,  do  not  thus  risk 
your  life.’ 

“What  a dramatic  scene!  But,  without 
allowing  himself  to  be  affected  by  the  sight  of  his  dying  brother,  his  wife  in  tears, 
and  his  disconsolate  old  father  ; the  king  looking  on,  and  the  crowd  shrieking,  pale 
— and  thinking  only  of  vengeance,  his  eyes  full  of  fire,  and  uttering  a cry  which 
made  the  hearers  tremble,  he  sprang  forw  ard  to  meet  the  bull. 

“The  hearts  of  all  are  oppressed  by  the  anguish  of  the  moment.  But  soon  the 
sword  is  seen  to  flash  and  then  disappear  up  to  the  hilt  between  the  shoulders  of  the 
beast,  who  falls  on  his  knees  mortally  wrounded.  It  is  a master-stroke. 

“Ceaseless  applause  then  rends  the  air.  The  excitement  of  the  multitude  is  at 
its  height.  The  ladies  wave  their  handkerchiefs  and  throw  bouquets  to  the  con- 
queror. The  king  sends  one  of  his  pages  to  congratulate  the  spada,  and  to  learn  how 
the  vrounded  man  is  progressing. 

“ But  Pedro  neither  hears  nor  sees  anything  of  what  is  passing  around  him.  He 
hastens  towrard  his  old  father  and  his  wife,  whom  he  consoles  and  encourages,  then 
clasping  the  body  of  his  brother  in  his  arms,  he  covers  it  with  kisses  and  tears. 

“Thus  was  manifested  in  a striking  manner,  in  full  daylight,  and  wdthin  a few 
seconds  of  time,  a father’s  despair,  a wdfe’s  affection,  a man’s  fearlessness,  a people's 
enthusiasm,  a king’s  solicitude,  the  triumph  of  skill  over  brute  force. 

“And  henceforth  let  no  one  say  that  a theatrical  performance  interests  the 
public  more ! ” 

It  may  be  said  that  the  classic  cuadrilla  is  due  to  the  two  Romeros.  It  was  these 
two  toreros  who  instituted  the  m,atador  or  spada , the  picadores , the  eapeadores  and  the 
bander  iller os,  the  respective  functions  of  all  of  whom  they  finally  fixed. 


-If 


On  the  Run. 


16 


MEXICO. 


The  two  principal  rivals  of  the  Romeros  were  Miguel  Galvez  and  Bargaitztegui. 
On  the  death  of  Juan  Romero,  Galvez,  who  was  his  most  brilliant  pupil,  obtained 
the  title  of  first  spada  of  Spain,  and  the  control  of  that  master’s  cuadrilla.  The  bull- 
fighting period  from  1790  to  1801  was  more  particularly  remarkable  for  the  manner 
in  which  Castillares  and  Pepe  Hillo  handled  their  swords. 

During  the  entire  reign  of  Joseph  Bonaparte  the  plazas  de  tor  os  were  deserted. 
In  1813  the  bull-fights,  officially  recognized  by  King  Ferdinand,  who  established  at 
Seville  a practical  and  theoretical  training-school,  became  flourishing  once  again. 
Nevertheless,  it  would  not  be  easy  to  draw  up  an  imposing  list  from  the  toreros  who 
appeared  before  the  public  between  1813  and  1830. 

Let,  us,  however,  make  mention  of  the  celebrated  Francisco  Herrera  Rodriguez, 
better  known  by  the  sobriquet  of  Curro  Guillen,  who  was  killed  in  the  arena  of 
Arunda  by  a thrust  in  the  abdomen  from  a bull. 

For  some  months  after  the  death  of  Curro  Guillen,  these  spectacles  were  in 
jeopardy,  owing  to  dissensions  among  the  pupils  of  that  master,  and  for  a time  the 
public  lost  all  interest  in  the  sport.  Soon,  however,  the  remarkable  exploits  of  the 
young  Francisco  Montes,  who  wa?  destined  to  acquire  later  so  great  a celebrity,  re- 
called the  Spanish  people  to  their  favorite  pastime. 

On  the  death  of  Montes  all  the  favors  of  the  public  were  bestowed  on  the  young 
nephew  of  Curro  Guillen,  the  famous  Cuchares. 

Many  and  skillful  wijre  the  toreros  who  endeavored  to  fill  the  position  left  vacant 
by  Cuchares,  the  most  celebrated  being  Diaz  Labi,  El  Chiclano,  one  of  the  best 
pupils  of  Montes,  Manuel  Trigo,  Francisco  Ezpeleta  and  Francisco  de  los  Santos. 

Of  contemporary  matadores  let  us  place  in  the  first  rank  Manuel  Doninguez 
(whose  Bohemian  existence  was  but  a series  of  extraordinary  adventures  which  we 
would  fain  relate  here),  and  complete  the  glorious  list  with  the  names  of  the  brothers 
Carmona,  El  Tato,  Manuel  Fuentes  (Boeanegra),  Francisco  Arjona  Reyes  (Currito), 
Rafael  Molina  y Sanchez  (Lagartijo),  Salvador  Sanchez  (Frascuelo),  Cara  Ancha, 
Mazzantini,  Guerrita,  and,  in  Mexico,  Ponciano  Diaz. 

A thorough  study  of  the  art — we  may  say,  of  so  intricate  a science — would  require 
lengthy  discursions  ; for  the  methods  of  bull-fighting  are  numberless,  and  every  day 
the  daring  skill  of  some  torero  adds  fresh  suertes  de  plantar  banderillas  al  relance , or  de 
matar  aguardando. 

The  account  of  a tragic  performance  at  which  I was  present  will  more  interest 
our  readers,  among  whom  the  aficionados  are  as  yet  rare,  than  any  arid  technical  dis- 
sertation, of  which,  moreover,  the  untranslatable  idiomatic  phrases  would  be  almost 
incomprehensible  to  the  uninitiated. 

The  arena  was  already  full  when  we  entered.  Twelve  thousand  spectators 
squeezed  together  were  uproariously  merry  amid  a rustling  of  fans  like  some  stu- 
pendous flapping  of  wings.  Above  this  multitude,  whose  impatience  was  revealed 
by  wild  shouts,  the  sun  shone  brilliantly  in  an  azure  field. 

It  is  now  a quarter  to  five,  and  we  have  still  a few  minutes  more  of  expectation. 
Why  not  hurry  on  the  performance  ? The  feverish  impatience  of  the  crowd  has 
already  taken  possession  of  me,  and  standing  on  the  seat,  I wave  my  sombrero 
towards  the  box  of  the  ayuntamiento  and  shout,  I scarcely  know  what.  My  com- 
panion, who  was  a Spaniard,  and  a great  lover  of  bull-fighting,  looked  at  me  with  a 
smile,  and  as  though  he  was  somewhat  disposed  to  banter  me. 

A.t  last  a signal  is  given  from  the  municipal  box,  and  the  traditional  alguazils , 
clothed  in  dark  velvet,  wearing  plumed  three-cornered  hats,  majestic  as  Count 
Olivares,  and  superbly  seated  on  black  Andalusian  steeds,  make  their  entry  into  the 
arena  at  a hunting  gallop. 

They  salute  the  president,  and  disappear  hastily  after  having  thrown  the  keys  of 


THE  HISTORY  OF  BULL-FIGIITING. 


17 


the  toril  to  the  attendants.  Immediately  a number  of  capeadores  clear  the  barrier  and 
rush  into  the  arena.  It  is  indeed  a charming  sight  to  see  these  men,  all  young  and  * 
handsome,  and  in  splendid  costumes,  with  apparently  no  thought  of  the  danger 
which  menaces  them,  standing  in  an  easy  attitude  and  talking  quietly  to  one  another. 

“ There  will  not  be  much  to  interest  us  in  this  fight,”  said  my  friend  to  me.  “I 
do  not  see  a single  torero  of  any  note,  and  I fear  the  animal  is  embolado.” 

Such  is  the  term  used  to  designate  a bull  which  has  had  the  tips  of  its  horns 
covered  with  wooden  or  leathern  balls. 

Against  such  an  adversary  even  the  most  inexperienced  toreros  can  fight  without 
running  much  risk.  I will  not  describe  this  first  event  which  finished  amidst  gene- 
ral indifference.  Only  one  torero  had  his  ribs  broken.  Nothing  w orth  mentioning  ! 
The  bull  wras  scarcely  two  years  old,  and  his  life  was  spared. 

“ Now,”  said  my  friend,  ‘‘look  out  for  something  ! ” 

I pulled  myself  together,  and,  smiling  in  my  turn,  wratched  the  proceedings 
eagerly'.  .■ 

The  arena  was  deserted,  but  before  long 
the  twro  alguazils  again  appeared.  This  time 
they  were  followed  by  the  cuadrilla  which 
was  to  take  part  in  the  combat.  The  band 
played  the  well-known  air  : 

“ Ya  sale  la  cuadrilla 
De  los  tor«roe, 

El  Tato  y el  Gordito 
Son  los  primeros.” 

And  the  procession  began  to  move. 

It  halted  in  front  of  the  municipal  box, 
and  the  president  had  scarcely  answered  the 
salute  of  the  toreros  when  a loud  flourish  of 
trumpets  announced  that  the  animal  had 
been  let  loose. 

At  that  moment,  I confess,  I felt  a keen 
emotion  ; mv  heart  beat  violently,  and  my 
memory  conjured  up  all  those  bloody  scenes 
of  the  Plaza  de  Toros  which  have  been  described  in  the  accounts  of  travels  in  Spain ; 
and  it  wras  perhaps  the  dread  of  being  ridiculed  by  my  friend  which  prevented  me 
from  going  and  finishing  my  cigar  in  the  cool  shade  of  the  Retiro. 

But  escajoe  is  now  impossible.  The  door  of  the  toi'il  having  just  been  opened,  the 
animal  comes  forth,  holding  his  head  high,  his  horns  threateningly  lowered,  and  he 
breathes  heavily.  Then,  as  quick  as  lightning,  he  rushes  at  the  nearest  picador,  who, 
standing  up  in  his  large  Arabian  stirrups,  couches  his  lance,  and  awaits  him  bravely. 

The  shock  was  terrific,  and  a shout  of  admiration  came  from  all  the  tiers.  At  the 
same  onset  the  bull  had  ripped  open  the  horse  and  unsaddled  its  rider,  and  as  if  the 
noise  which  greeted  his  triumph  still  further  increased  his  rage,  he  thrust  his 
powerful  "horns  into  the  body  of  the  animal,  while  the  attendants  carried  off  the 
picador  in  an  insensible  condition. 

“ This  is  going  to  be  a good  fight,”  said  my  friend,  as  he  looked  at  me  knowingly. 

“Ah,  splendid  !”  I replied,  wiping  the  perspiration  from  my  forehead. 

When  the  bull  had  vented  his  fury  on  the  bleeding  carcass,  he  quietly  took  up  a 
position  in  the  middle  of  the  arena,  and  remained  there  perfectly  still,  without  tak- 
ing any  notice  of  the  capeadores  who  leaped  round  him,  each  one  striking  him  in 
turn  with  his  long  cloak. 

After  this  first  exploit  he  seemed  pleased  to  present  himself  to  the  public,  as  if  he 


Face  to  Face. 


18 


MEXICO . 

already  had  a presentiment  that  his  name  would  soon  be  associated  with  those  of  the 
Sevillanos,  Pantalones,  and  Media-Lunas. 

He  was  of  the  average  height  and  of  a brilliant  black.  At  a glance  one  could  see 
that  he  was  strong  and  agile  ; for  his  head,  adorned  with  pointed  and  well-set  horns, 
was  short  and  compact,  his  shoulders  powerful,  his  breast  well-developed,  and  his 
limbs,  spare  and  sinewy,  had  at  intervals  a sudden  movement  which,  although  ho 

did  not  stir  from  his  ground,  caused 
the  capeadores  who  were  nearest  to  him 
to  be  on  their  guard. 

This  immobility  was  of  short  du- 
ration. All  at  once  he  gave  a long- 
bellow,  shook  his  massive  head  to  get 
rid  of  the  veil  with  which  a chulo  had 
covered  it,  scraped  the  ground  with 
his  forefoot,  and,  lowering  his  horns, 
rushed  at  the  toreros  who  surrounded 
him. 

Lightly,  as  if  they  had  wings,  they 
sprang  over  the  barrier,  fancying  that 
they  would  thus  be  sheltered  from  the 
rage  of  their  powerful  antagonist. 
But  they  had  reckoned  without  tak- 
ing into  consideration  his  remark- 
able agility.  Almost  at  the  same  time 
as  they,  he  sprang  over  the  obstacle, 
and  then  rolled  at  the  feet  of  the  spectators,  over  the  body  of  an  unfortunate  atten- 
dant who  was  instantly  killed. 

Driven  back  at  once,  into  the  arena,  the  animal,  whose  rage  was  continually  in- 
creasing, dashed  at  the  horsemen  who,  clutching  their  lances  firmly,  advanced  boldly 
to  meet  him  on  their  weak,  tottering  old  horses. 

By  San  Isidro,  what  terrible  thrusts  ! 

In  less  time  than  I take  to  write  it,  two  horses  were  ripped  open  and  lay  on  the 
ground,  whilst  the  picadores,  limping,  dragged  themselves  toward  the  outer  ring, 
being  protected  in  their  retreat  by  the  capeadores , who  came  forward  just  in  time  and 
succeeded  in  drawing  the  bull’s  anger  upon  themselves.  Out  of  the  twelve  horses 
engaged  in  this  combat,  six  were  already  dead  and  their  meagre  carcasses  were 
scarcely  distinguishable  as  they  lay  on  the  red  sand  of  the  arena. 

Now  the  multitude,  filled  with  a delirious  joy,  burst  into  exclamations  in  eulogy 
of  the  bull.  “ Bravo  toro  ! Que  bonito  ! Viva  el  torof  Anda  l Anda  P* 

Close  by  me  a young  and  pretty  woman  quickly  snatched  some  tuberose  blossoms 
from  her  black  tresses,  and  with  a kiss,  threw  them  to  the  brute. 

“ Now,”  said  my  friend  to  me,  “do  not  lose  sight  of  a single  movement  of  the 
bull.  He  has  finished  with  the  horses,  and  now  it’s  the  men’s  turn.” 

Strange  to  say,  at  the  commencement  of  the  fight,  or  even  before  the  appearance 
of  the  bull,  a thrill  of  secret  terror  and  anguish  had  possessed  me,  and  I would  have 
left  the  circus  willingly.  But  now  I was  fixed  in  my  seat  in  spite  of  the  dreadful 
spectacle  which  was  before  me  ; not  for  all  the  Velasquez  of  the  Prado  would  I have 
quitted  my  place  at  that  moment,  and  I even  caught  myself  applauding  the  bull’s 
triumph. 

“ You  will  soon  make  an  excellent  afitionado said  my  friend. 

And  I kept  my  eye  fixed  on  the  bull. 

Irritated  by  the  fluttering  of  the  gaudy  cloaks  of  the  capeadores , the  animal  rushed 

0 


A Close  Call. 


THE  HISTORY  OF  BULL-FIGHTING. 


19 


about  in  every  direction.  But  liis  nimble  adversaries,  by  suddenly  twisting  round  or 
stepping  aside,  always  evaded  him.  Then,  as  he  again  dashed  at  them,  they  so 
goaded  him  to  madness,  that  in  his  blind  rage  at  battling  only  with  air,  he  plunged 
at  the  carcasses  of  the  horses  and  rent  them  to  fragments.  At  last,  apparently  dis- 
gusted at  having  no  living  enemies  to  attack,  he  moved  off  towards  the  door. 

Then  I witnessed  one  of  the  most  astounding  scenes.  The  crowd,  which  but  just 
before  had  been  lavishing  on  the  brute  the  most  endearing  terms,  began  saluting  his 
retreat  with  a salvo  of  imprecations  of  unutterably  high  flavor.  To  a moralist  these 
would  have  material  for  grave  reflections  on  the  instability  of  popular  passions. 

Then  the  president  of  the  proceedings  came  in  for  his  share  of  abuse.  “ Thief  of 
a President ! Scoundrel ! Robber  ! Why  don’t  you  let  the  banderfflpros  manage 
this  African  cow  ? You  are  not  up  to  your  work.  Al fuego  el presidente  ! ” 

I forbear  to  mention  other  more  insulting  taunts.  The  lucky  individual  to  whom 
these  gracious  remarks  were  made  merely  replied  by  a smile  of  Jove-like  serenity. 
I admired  his  aggravating  coolness.  The  crowds  standing  up  on  the  benches  shook 
their  fists  furiously  at  him.  My  friend  shouted  just  as  the  others  did,  and  I shouted 
like  my  friend. 

At  last  this  much  abused  official,  a veritable  Boissy  d’Anglas  of  tauromachy,  con- 
descended to  wave  his  handkerchief,  and  four  banderilleros  joined  the  capecidore*. 

Holding  a banderiUa  in  each  hand,  they  placed  themselves  in  front  of  the  bull. 
The  latter  seemed  to  understand  that  now  he  had  more  formidable  adversaries  to 
deal  with  and  that  his  life  was  at  stake,  for  he  bellowed  long  and  loud,  pawed 
savagely  for  a moment,  and  then  made  a rush  at  the  nearest  banderillero. 

The  man,  with  a grace  and  skill  which  drew  forth  the  applause  of  the  assembly, 
made  a pirouette  which  took  him  to  one  side, 
the  furious  charge  of  the  animal  carrying 
him  far  beyond  his  enemy. 

As  the  bull  was  returning  to  the  attack, 
the  banderill  ro  again  stood  in  his  path,  and, 
in  the  very  act  of  stepping  aside  a second 
time,  stuck  both  of  his  barbed  banderillas 
deeply  into  the  animal’s  shoulders. 

“ Bueno  ! Bueno  ! Viva  el  banderillero  ! ” 
shouted  the  crowd.  Maddened  with  rage  and 
pain,  the  bull  plunged  across  the  arena,  with 
tail  erect,  muzzle  held  high,  bellowing  fierce- 
ly, and  vainly  shaking  his  broad  shoulders  to 
free  them  from  the  iron  points  which  were  at 
every  moment  lacerating  him  afresh.  The 
blood1' streaming  from  his  wounds  covered  his 
hide,  giving  it  the  appearance  of  a purple 
mantle. 

All  at  once  there  was  a tremendous  clam- 
or.^' The  Lull  had  just  rushed  on  another 
banderillero , and  he,  less  fortunate  than  his 

comrade,  had  not  been  able  to  avoid  him.  He  was  tossed  to  a height  of  five  or  six 
yards,  and  fell  heavily  to  the  ground,  while  the  bull,  carried  forward  by  his  impetus, 
had  stumbled,  and  was  kneeling  on  the  carcass  of  one  of  the  horses. 

A death-like  silence  took  possession  of  the  circus. 

The  torero  got  up  and  ran  a few  paces  toward  the  exit  door,  threw  up  his  arms 
wildly,  and  fell  face  downwards.  He  was  dead.  The  bull’s  horn  had  pierced  his 
chest  and  heart,  and  from  the  gaping  wound  the  blood  spurted  out  upon  the  sand. 


£ 


Not  this  Time. 


20 


MEXICO. 


It  will  be  long  ere  I forget  poor  Nicola  Fuertes.  His  daring  and  coquettish  manner 
had  made  him  a great  favorite  with  the  people,  who  had  given  him  the  nickname  of 
“El  Polio  ” or  “the  Cock. ” The  entire  multitude  were  silent  and  almost  breathless 
as  they  beheld  his  body,  from  which  the  life  had  so  suddenly  fled.  Everybody  was 
still  hopeful  that  the  banderillero  had  only  fainted,  that  it  was  a slight  wound,  and 
that  ne  would  soon  get  up  again.  Alas  ! doubt  was  soon  no  longer  possible,  when 
the  attendants,  afteP  having  carried  him  on  their  shoulders  out  of  the  arena,  re- 
turned and  announced  that  he  was  dead. 

While  this  tragical  incident  was  passing,  the  other  toreros,  springing  to  the 
animal’s  head,  fluttered  their  cloaks  before  his  large  bloodshot  eyes,  and  maddened 
him  to  such  a degree  that,  far  from  thinking  of  rushing  after  the  men  bearing  the 
body,  in  his  blind  fury  he  dashed  at  his  barrier  with  such  force  as  to  break  several 
of  its  planks  with  his  head. 

Twice  again  he  jumped  over  into  the  outer  circle,  and  in  another  moment  he 
would,  with  a desperate  bound,  have  cleared  the  second  barrier  and  rushed  among 
the  people,  who  had  already  become  panic-stricken. 

The  president  saw  that  it  was  time  to  finish,  and  waved  a red  handkerchief. 

There  was  great  applause,  and  the  trumpets  sounded  the  signal  of  death.  The 
matador  who  came  forward  to  kill  the  brute  was  a man  of  about  thirty  years  of  age. 
Unknown  till  then,  he  was  perhaps  destined  within  the  next  few  minutes  to  make 
himself  famous,  and  by  one  stroke  to  become  the  rival  of  Frascuelo  and  Lagartijo. 

Never,  forsooth,  had  a more  dangerous  animal  than  the  terrible  Yalenciano  been 
encountered  in  the  arena. 

The  man  was  tall  and  thin,  supple  in  his  slightest  movements,  and  his  bearing 
while  in  fighting  array  was  of  irreproachable  correctness.  Such  at  least  was  the 
opinion  of  the  connoisseurs.  And  with  his  muleta,  or  the  red  cloth,  as  light  as  a 
cloak,  and  with  his  slender  sword  he  was  about  to  confront  this  monster  who  had 
borne  all  before  him  and  whose  horns,  now  reddened  with  gore,  had  disemboweled 
both  horses  and  men,  and  broken  down  the  strongest  barriers. 

The  torero  advanced  to  the  presidential  box,  took  off  his  cap,  and  said  simply  : 
“ Senor  el  presidente,  I ask  to  be  allowed  to  fight  this  bull.  One  of  us  must  die.” 

“You  may  fight  him,”  replied  the  president. 

With  a movement,  full  of  grace  the  spada  threw  his  cap  among  the  crowd,  and 
walked  resolutely  toward  the  animal,  which  awaited  him  with  its  head  lowered.  Its 
shoulders,  from  which  the  blood  was  still  streaming,  shuddered  with  pain,  and  again 
he  furiously  pawed  up  the  ground.  The  unfortunate  Nicola  Fuertes  was  already 
forgotten,  and  the  crowd,  charmed  by  the  fine  attitude  of  each  combatant,  applauded 
alternately  the  man  and  the  brute. 

“You  are  both  charming  !”  shouted  the  women. 

“ Forward,  both  of  you,  you  brave  fellows  ! ” yelled  the  men. 

And  then  bets  were  made  while  the  antagonists  continued  to  eye  one  another 
keenly  The  man  move's  forward  with  short  steps,  while  the  bull  retires  slowly  un- 
til he  finds  himself  brought  to  a stand  at  the  barrier.  Is  he  afraid,  or  can  he  be 
tired?  “ Anda  ! Anda!”  shout  the  crowd,  and  then  they  call  out  to  the  spada: 
“ Strike  him  with  your  muleta.” 

But  the  bull,  as  if  he  wished  to  anticipate  this  insult,  made  a rush  at  his  oppo- 
nent, who,  by  a rapid  movement  to  one  side,  just  escaped  him.  One  of  the  horns 
had  grazed  his  chest. 

It  was  in  vain  that  the  capeadores.  when  they  saw  that  the  bull  was  still  in  full 
strength  and  that  the  contest  was  far  from  equal,  tried  to  divert  his  attention  and 
further  fatigue  him.  No  longer  did  he  deign  to  notice  them,  but  made  a second 
furious  rush  upon  the  spada.  Again  the  latter  escaped  him,  and  at  the  third  charge, 


THE  HISTORY  OF  BULL-FIGIITING. 


21 


while  the  bull  was  rushing  at  full  speed  toward*  him,  he  stood  directly  in  front  of  the 
monster,  his  body  erect,  and  his  sword  pointed  toward  the  animal,  but  slightly  in- 
clined. 

Then  I confess  I thought  of  the  unfortunate  El  Polio  when  tossed  aloft,  and  me- 
chanically I closed  my  eyes. 

As  I opened  them  again  to  learn  the  cause  of  the  shouts  and  continued  applause, 
I saw  the  torero  still  in  the  same  spot,  saluting  the  people  with  his  muleta,  while  the 
bull  was  plunging  about  the  arena,  bellowing  with  pain  and  writhing  to  rid  himself 
of  the  sword  which  had  been  thrust  up  to  the  hilt  between  his  shoulders. 

“Ah,  that  will  kill  him  ! ” they  cried,  and  already  the  crafty  caclietero  could  be 
seen  peering  over  the  barrier,  as  he  awaited  the  moment  the  bull  should  sink  on  his 
knees  for  the  last  time,  when  he  would  creep 
forward  to  give  the  coup  de  grace , by  j:>lunging 
his  lance-headed  dagger  between  the  first  and 
second  vertebrae. 

But,  to  the  surprise  of  all,  the  bull  suc- 
ceeded in  ridding  himself  of  the  sword, 
which,  by  a sudden  movement  of  his  shoul- 
ders, wras  jerked  to  some  distance,  and  with 
greater  fury  than  ever  he  rushed  again  at  the 
spada , who  was  unsuspectingly  engaged  in 
collecting  the  cigars  thrown  to  him. 

He  had  scarcely  time  to  bestride  the  bar- 
rier and  gain  the  outer  ring,  while  the  crowd 
signified  their  disapproval  of  his  flight  by  a 
volley  of  hisses. 

Exasperated  by  this  unforeseen  attack, 
and  irritated  at  finding  his  triumph  so  sud- 
denly changed  to  a defeat,  he  soon  reappeared 
pallid  with  anger,  and  holding  a fresh  sword 
in  his  hand. 

Theophile  Gautier  is  quite  right  when  he 
says  that  a good  bull-fight  is  better  than  all 
the  plays  of  Shakespeare.  I clapped  my  hands  so  vigorously  that  I split  my  gloves. 

“Ah,  ah  ! ” said  my  friend,  “has  it  come  to  that  ? Why,  you  are  a perfect  aficio- 
nado.” 

I wished  to  protest  strongly  against  this  idea,  and  was  trying  to  find  the  most 
appropriate  epithets  to  stigmatize  the  brutal  customs  of  the  Spanish  people,  when 
he  made  a sign  to  me  to  be  quiet  and  to  see  what  was  going  on. 

Night  was  rapidly  approaching — it  wras  one  of  those  superb  nights  wdien  the 
darkness  has  an  azure  transparency.  The  dark  blue  sky  served  as  a grand  vaulted 
roof  to  the  circus,  and  the  stars  gradually  shone  forth  like  some  gigantic  al  fresco 
illuminatton.  In  the  blood-stained  arena  the  forms  of  the  combatants  became  more 
and  more  indistinct.  They  were  but  shadows  which  moved  hither  and  thither  rap- 
idly, for  the  contest  was  raging  anew. 

Just  then  one  of  the  spectators  lit  a candle,  and  soon  thousands  of  lights  glim- 
mered amongst  the  sombre  and  excited  crowd,  and,  besides  these,  a vast  number  of 
the  broad  paper  fans  held  by  white,  nervous  hands  were  soon  blazing  to  increase  the 
glare.  The  circus  then  resembled  a vast  furnace  full  of  pale  faces  to  which  the 
tragical  events  of  the  fight  gave  an  awful  weird  and  tortured  aspect.  In  none  of 
Goya’s  representations  of  tauromachy  have  I ever  seen  so  terribly  sinister  a scene 
depicted. 


A Sure  Thrust. 


22 


MEXICO 


The  night  birds  quitted  their  holes  in  the  walls,  and  burnt  their  wings  in  striving 
to  flutter  through  these  innumerable  lights. 

Once  more  the  spada  succeeded  in  wounding  the  bull,  but  again  the  brute  freed 
himself  from  the  weapon,  and  recommenced  the  pursuit  of  his  implacable  executioner. 

“ Bravo  Toro!  Bravo  Valenciano  ! ” they  all  cried. 

So  the  animal  was  spared.  His  achievements  had  touched  the  hearts  of  these 
good,  impressionable  Spaniards.  They  gave  him  a new  lease  of  life,  and  again  let 
him  into  the  toril. 

He  made  his  way  thither  under  the  escort  of  the  cabestros , shaking  his  bleeding 
head,  which  he  raised  with  great  difficulty,  and  bellowing  dolefully. 

The  arena  was  now  open,  and  the  crowd  rushed  in,  shouting  and  singing.  Some 
struggled  to  fill  their  handkerchiefs  or  their  pockets  with  the  sand  colored  by  the 
blood  of  “El  Polio.” 

The  age  at  which  the  fighting  bull  is  in  full  vigor  varies  from  four  to  nine  years. 
He  must  be  of  good  pedigree,  and  have  never  left  the  breeding-farm.  On  this  point 
the  laws  which  regulate  the  sport  are  very  precise.  The  bull  who  has  already  fought 
in  the  arena  remembers  perfectly  the  blows  of  his  adversaries  and  their  various 
modes,  how  deceptive  is  the  muleta , etc.,  and  would  be  altogether  too  dangerous  to 
encounter  a second  time. 

He  must  be  in  good  condition,  so  as  to  be  able  to  support  without  being  too 
much  fatigued  the  incessant  attacks  which  precede  the  final  thrust ; but  he  must 
not  be  too  fat,  as  that  would  deprive  him  of  one  of  his  most  valuable  qualities,  his 
agility.  To  be  perfect  he  should  have  a shining  black  coat,  soft  to  the  touch,  brown 
eyes  spangled  with  gold,  a haughty  look,  a broad  head,  but  short  and  compact, 
shaggy  ears,  shoulders  and  chest  well  developed,  a long  and  well  tufted  tail,  horns 
thick  at  the  base,  slightly  curved,  and  very  pointed  at  the  end. 

It  has  been  noticed  that  bulls  have  three  different  styles  of  entering  the  arena ; 
whence  the  following  classification  of  them  has  been  made  : 

1.  The  Levantados , or  heedless,  are  those  who  rush  into  the  arena  holding  their 
heads  high,  running  about  in  all  directions,  and  making  a number  of  plunges  and 
comical  cabrioles  before  charging  the  picadores.  They  are  the  least  dangerous  to 
fight,  and  the  easiest  to  kill. 

2.  The  Parados , or  lazy,  come  in  at  a trot,  then  stop,  and  would  return  very 
quickly  to  the  point  where  they  entered,  if  the  horsemen,  goading  them  with  their 
poles,  did  not  compel  them  to  throw  off  their  apparent  sluggishness.  Sometimes 
they  get  enraged  at  the  first  prick  of  the  goad,  and  are  then  very  dangerous. 

3.  The  Aplomados , or  self-possessed,  are  more  to  be  feared  than  all.  I know 
nothing  more  imposing  than  the  way  in  which  they  present  themselves.  They  hold 
up  their  heads,  but  exhibit  none  of  the  extravagant  or  cowardly  movements  of  the 
levantados  or  parados.  Their  deportment  is  so  royally  majestic  that  the  people  never 
fail  to  applaud  them  when  they  appear.  They  proceed  at  a slow  pace  to  the  middle 
of  the  arena,  as  if  for  the  purpose  of  enabling  the  public  to  admire  leisurely  their 
heroic  and  haughty  indifference  to  the  numerous  enemies  who  threaten  them.  Then 
after  repeatedly  striking  the  ground  with  each  foot  in  order  to  assure  themselves  of 
their  firmness,  they  rush  upon  the  group  of  picadores. 

The  fighting  bulls  grow  up  in  full  liberty  in  the  breeding  parks  or  ganaderias, 
which  are  always  situated  in  well  watered  valleys  abounding  in  sweet  scented  herbs. 

Eor  a long  time  the  bulls  of  Andalusia  and  New  Castile  were  most  in  demand. 
But  at  the  present  time  it  would  seem  as  though  the  mestizos , a cross  between  the 
Andalusian  bull  and  Portuguese  cow,  were  preferred  to  any.  This  breed,  while  pre- 
serving the  natural  vigor  of  the  Spanish  bull,  is  wonderfully  horned  and  extremely 
agile,  as  are  his  congeners  of  the  banks  of  the  Douro,  and  of  the  valleys  of  Braga. 


THE  HISTORY  OF  BULL-FIGHTING . 


23 


In  1880  Lagartijo  devoted  a large  portion  of  his  fortune  to  the  establishment  of 
an  important  ganaderia  of  mestizos  in  the  neighborhood  of  Cordova. 

The  ganaderias  now  most  in  vogue  in  Spain  are  those  of  the  Duke  of  Yeragua, 
Don  Antonia  Miura,  and  Don  Rafael  Lafitte  y Castro. 

The  fighting  bulls  have  for  pasture  companions  the  cabestros , a species  of  very 
intelligent  oxen,  which,  to  some  extent,  perform  the  duties  of  a shepherd-dog,  for  no 
sooner  does  a bull  escape  from  the  in  closure  than  the  cabestros , without  even  waiting 
for  a word  from  the  keeper,  start  off  in  pursuit,  ringing  furiously  the  large  bells  sus- 
pended from  their  necks.  They  are  not  long  in  overtaking  the  deserter,  who,  with- 
out the  least  resistance,  returns  with  a dejected  look  to  the  ganaderia  in  the  midst  of 
his  imposing  escort. 

Nor  are  the  cabestros  of  less  service  on  the  occasion  of  a bull-fight,  for  without 
their  aid  it  would  be  impossible  to  drive  out  an  animal  wrhose  life  has  been  spared  ; 
but  as  soon  the  bull  sees  them  with  their  keepers,  he  hastens  to  join  the  number,  and 
to  return  with  them  to  the  stables  after  a short  trot  round  the  arena. 

The  history  of  bull-fighting  in  Mexico  is  but  another  chapter  added  to  that  of 
Spain,  simply  changing  the  names  of  the  stars  of  the  profession.  The  people  of 
Mexico  inherit  the  bloody  fascination  of  the  sport,  and  what  has  been  written  of  the 
excitin gfuncions  in  th e plaza  de  toros  of  Spain  will  describe  as  well  the  fights  in  the 
arenas  of  Puebla,  Toluca,  Tlalnepantla,  the  City  of  Mexico  or  any  other  of  the 
republic. 

Star  matadors  from  Spain  and  Cuba  have  visited  Mexico,  notably  Mazzantini  two 
years  ago  and  others  at  different  times,  but  they  have  not  dimmed  the  glory  of  the 
home  constellation,  for  Mexico  believes  in  patronizing  home  industry  when  it  comes 
to  bull-fighting,  and  Mazzantini’s  reception  was  not  cordial  nor  his  engagement  a 
prosperous  one,  so  the  field  is  left  to  the  home  toreadors. 

There  are  famous  names  on  the  roll  of  tauromachy  of  Mexico,  such  names  as 
Corona,  Hernandez,  Gonzalez,  Gavino  and  a host  of  others,  but  none  have  reached 
that  pinnacle  attained  by  the  idol  of  the  day,  the  great  and  only  Ponciano  Diaz — a 
man  commanding  the  admiration  of  the  entire  people,  a man  of  whom  a native  paper 
says  : “ Should  some  day  a man  be  required  to  fill  the  archiepiscopal  see  at  Mexico 
and  the  bull-fight  going  people  be  called  to  elect  a man  for  the  place,  Ponciano 
would  be  the  man. 

“ Should  a presidential  election  be  left  to  the  will  of  the  masses  enthusiastically 
patronizing  the  popular  sport,  Ponciano  would  be  the  president. 

“Should  it  ever  come  to  the  point  of  abolishing  the  republican  system  of  gov- 
ernment in  Mexico  and  create  a monarchy  instead,  we  would  see  thousands  of 
the  young  matador’s  admirers  propose  the  name  of  Ponciano  the  First  for  the 
Mexican  throne.  ” 

That’s  the  kind  of  a man  Ponciano  Diaz  is. 

It  does  not  follow  that  the  bull-fighter  is  a “tough.”  Mazzantini  was  a grad- 
uate of  a college  at  Rome  and  an  A.  M.,  and  Ponciano  Diaz  a modest,  well-appearing 
man  of  intelligence  and  good  breeding,  brave  but  not  a bully,  correct  but  not  fop- 
pish, and  altogether  not  spoiled  by  his  professional  successes. 

Ponciano  Diaz  Gonzalez  was  born  at  tlie  Hacienda  de  Atenco  November  19, 
1858 ; his  father,  now  dead,  was  Don  Guadaloupe  Diaz  Gonzalez,  and  his  mother 
Dona  Maria  de  Jesus  Salinas,  whom  Ponciano  loves  and  reverences  to  an  idolatry 
which  is  given  as  a reason  for  his  never  having  married. 

Ponciano  does  not  remember  when  he  first  faced  a bull.  He  tells,  as  a very 
dim  recollection,  that  when  he  scarcely  could  walk  his  father,  who  was  a perfect 
charro  (sport),  would  take  him  to  the  weekly  bull-fights  held  in  the  Hacienda  de 
Atenco,  where  he  was  employed,  and  would  hold  up  his  little  son  and  use  him  as  a 


24 


MEXICO. 


cloak  to  goad  the  beast.  This  early  apprenticeship — perhaps  rather  too  premature 
and  rough — made  Ponciano  so  familiar  with  the  bulls,  that  he  took  his  first  lessons  in 
bull-fighting  on  the  same  grounds  of  the  hacienda  with  the  other  boys  living  near 
by.  Scarcely  a youth,  he  was  an  inveterate  toreador,  and  under  the  superintendence 
of,  and  in  comi3any  with,  the  Hernandez,  he  soon  put  on  for  the  first  time  the  red  coat 
and  knee-breeches  of  the  professional  bull-fighter. 

In  1878  he  was  first  seen  in  a public  bull  ring  at  Tlalnepantla  with  the  Her- 
nandez troujDe,  and  was  much  admired  and  applauded  for  his  bravery  and  skill, 
which  seemed  extraordinary  for  so  young  a man. 

From  Tlalnepantla  he  went  to  Puebla  under  the  management  of  the  never-to-be- 
forgotten  Bernardo  Gavino,  who  was  always  to  him  a devoted  friend  and  an  assiduous 
teacher.  After  working  six  months  with  the  old  Spanish  champion,  alternating  with 
him  as  a first  espada,  he  was  compelled  to  accept  the  direction  of  the  troupe  at 
Puebla.  Thus  he  inaugurated  his  career  as  a chief  bull-fighter  on  Easter  Sunday, 
April  13,  1879.  On  this  occasion  he  obtained  an  ovation  which  he  will  scarcely  for- 
get while  his  life  may  last. 

Although  he  received  several  blows  during  his  perilous  career,  Ponciano  was 
skillful  and  fortunate  enough  to  get  wounded  but  once,  though  seriously,  in  the 
bull-ring  at  Durango  while  performing  the  difficult  feat  of  thrusting  banderillas 
(darts)  while  on  horseback,  a most  daring  attempt  in  which  he  has  no  peer  through- 
out Mexico.  But  in  spite  of  the  seriousness  of  his  wound  he  was  able  to  appear  in 
public  in  a fortnight. 

Ponciano  is  a semi-god  to  the  masses ; he  is  the  impersonation  of  all  that  is 
great  to  the  people. 

Do  you  doubt  ? 

Then  you  have  not  seen  a delirious  mob  unhitch  the  mules  from  their  hero’s 
carriage  the  day  he  went  to  see  the  first  bull-fight  by  Mazzantini  at  Puebla,  and 
hundreds  of  them  haul  the  coach  as  a triumphal  chariot  through  the  streets,  until 
they  reached  the  hotel  with  their  idol,  shouting  as  they  ran. 

Then  you  have  not  witnessed  the  ovations  lie  receives  wherever  he  goes,  and  on 
the  street  the  young  and  old,  boys  and  girls  and  little  children,  point  out — There 
goes  Ponciano  ! 

If  a man  can  reach  the  pinnacle  of  popularity,  Ponciano  is  that  man. 

It  is  with  the  masses  that  the  taste  for  the  sport  seems  to  be  ineffaceable ; the 
upper  ten  as  a class  do  not,  as  a rule,  frequent  the  bull-ring,  though  there  are  many 
and  very  brilliant  exceptions,  and  I have  seen  the  most  elegant  carriage  on  thePaseo 
whose  occupants  were  little  children  dressed  in  the  full  costume  of  the  toreador. 
Is  it,  then,  any  wonder  the  custom  prevails,  when  the  children  are  taught  to  admire 
it  ? An  attempt  was  made  a few  years  ago  to  legislate  against  bull-fighting,  and  all 
performances  were  interdicted  within  the  Federal  District.  Now  there  are  four  rings 
within  the  city  limits,  and  no  well-regulated  town  in  the  republic  is  without  its 
Plaza  de  Toros. 

Do  Americans  attend  the  bull-fight3  ? Most  all  of  them — once.  Once  is  gen- 
erally an  ample  sufficiency  and  there  have  been  those  to  leave  before  the  perform- 
ance was  over.  I have  found  a sameness  of  opinion  among  those  I have  questioned 
on  the  subject,  and  those  who  have  made  any  excuse  for  it  would  have  been  better 
satisfied  to  witness  a combat  of  human  skill  and  brute  force  if  the  helpless  and 
blindfolded  horses  could  be  left  out. 

If  I have  devoted  much  space  to  the  subject  it  has  been  for  two  reasons,  more 
than  others.  All  tourists,  naturally  uninformed  curious  to  know,  ask  many  ques- 
tions, and  the  guide  books  with  one  accord  evade  the  question  ; hence  the  history  is 
written  here,  and  as  to  practical  information  it  may  be  briefly  imparted. 


PONCIANO  DIAZ. 


B 


26 


MEXICO. 


Tlie  r Plaza  de  77omsTis^in"shape~'very  much  like  the  cyclorama  buildings  of 
America,  only  much  larger ; inside  is  a monster  amphitheatre  seating  thousands  of 
people.  Encircling  the  arena  is  a high  fence  or  barrier  with  a foot-rail  about  eighteen 
inches  from  the  ground,  on  the  inside,  on  which  the  performers  step  and  leap  over 
the  fence  when  too  closely  pursued  by  the  bull,  landing  in  an  open  space  between 
the  audience  and  the  ring. 

The  opening  of  the  performance  is  brilliant  and  exciting,  the  audiences  are  nearly 
always  large,  sometimes  numbering  fifteen  to  twenty  thousand,  all  eager  for  the  fray. 
Gay  colors  are  everywhere,  bands  are  playing  the  liveliest  airs,  and  all  is  excitement. 
The  feeling  of  an  American  under  the  circumstances  is  one  of  amazement  and  anxious 
expectation.  There  is  a grand  flourish  of  trumpets,  a gaily  caparisoned  horseman 
dashes  in,  gallops  to  the  President’s  box,  a key  is  thrown  to  him,  it  is  the  key  of  the 
door  leading  to  the  pens  where  the  animals  are  kept  ; the  horseman  catches  the  key, 
woe  be  to  him  if  he  don’t,  and  gallops  back  to  the  entrance  and  disappears  ; if  the 
key  is  not  caught  the  man  is  hissed  out  of  the  ring.  Another  flourish  of  trumpets 
and  loud' huzzas  from  twenty  thousand  throats'announce  the'coming  of  the  company. 

It  is,  indeed,  a brilliant  spectacle,  the  matadores  and  banderilleros  on  foot  and  pica- 
dores  on  horseback,  all  clad  in  the  gayest,  gaudiest  costumes,  in  all  colors  and  gold 

embroideries,  they  march  to  the  President’s 
box  : the  President  is  a municipal  or  State 
officer,  and  has  full  direction  of  the  pro- 
ceedings. He  is  saluted  by  the  company 
and  the  fight  is  ready  to  commence. 

Now  the  wildest  excitement  prevails, 
and  the  scene  is  a perfect  picture  of  pande- 
monium ; all  eyes  are  turned  toward  the  low 
strong  doors  under  the  band  stand  ; they 
are  thrown  open,  and  from  a darkened  pen 
the  bull  bounds  into  the  ring.  As  he  passes 
under  the  rail  a steel  barb,  with  ribbons 
attached,  showing  the  breeder’s  colors,  is 
fastened  in  his  shoulder.  He  gallops  to  the 
middle  of  the  ring,  stops  and  looks  about 
with  fear  and  astonishment.  He  is  a grand-looking  beast.  Surprise  and  fear  give  way 
to  rage,  he  paws  the  earth  and  snorts  in  his  frenzy,  and  discovering  the  red  cloak  of 
the  espada  starts  towards  him  on  the  run. 

The  man  goes  over  the  fence,  but  not  too 
quickly,  for  he  has  hardly  disappeared  be- 
fore the  bull’s  horns  are  thrust  through  the 
boards.  > The  animal  turns  and  spies  a 
horse,  and  woe  be  unto  the  horse,  his  day 
has  come  ; the  picador  with  his  lance  is 
totally  unable  to  keejD  the  bull  from  gor- 
ing the  horse,  and  it  is  killed  on  the 
spot.  The  horses  are  not  valuable  ones, 
being  old  veterans  retired  from  service, 
feasted  and  fattened  to  friskyness  for 
this  occasion,  are  blindfolded  and  ridden 
in  to  certain  death.  Another  man  is 
chased  out  of  the  ring  and  another  horse 
severely  wounded ; a signal  from  the  President  and  a bugle  call  directs  the  horses 
to  be  removed. 


THE  COMING  OP  THE  COMPANY. 


THE  FALL  OP  THE  PICADOR. 


THE  HISTORY  OF  BULL-FIGHTING. 


27 


Now  comes  the  really  interesting  feature  of  the  performance,  the  thrusting  of. 
the  banderillas.  The  bull  is  alone  with  his  tormentors,  it  is  a contest  between 

skill  and  brute  strength.  A banderilla  is  a 
wire  about  two  feet  and  a half  long,  on 
the  end  is  a very  sharp  barbed  point,  the 
wire  is  covered  its  entire  length  with 
colored  paper  ribbons.  The  banderillero 
is  the  man  who  places  them  in  the  bull’s 
shoulders,  he  must  stand  in  front  of  the  ani- 
mal, without  flag  or  cloak,  must  stand  still 
and  wait  the  attack.  The  bull,  maddened 
at  his  audacity,  starts  at  him  at  full  speed, 
the  man  steps  out  of  his  way  gracefully, 
and  skillfully  thrusts  the  banderillas  in  the 
bull’s  shoulders  as  lie  passes  by  (they 
never  speak  as  they  pass  by),  as  soon  as  the 
animal  can  check  his  headlong  speed  he  turns,  now  furious  with  rage,  he  turns, 
only  to  find  another  banderillero  with  tv  o more  banderillas.  These  and  two  more 
are  thrust  into  his  shoulders,  all  hanging 
there.  Bellowing  now,  he  is  wild. 

Another  signal  from  the  President  in- 
structs that  the  bull  has  had  enough  and 
must  be  killed — this  is  where  the  matador , 
the  primer  espada,  distinguishes  himself, 
his  skillful  killing  of  the  bull  by  a single 
thrust  of  the  sword  is  what  determines  the 
brilliancy  of  the  star.  The  matador  must 
face  the  bull,  sword  in  hand,  and  await 
the  attack,  it  is  assassination  to  strike 
while  he  is  at  rest  and  calls  for  hisses  and 
missiles  from  audience.  The  blood-red 
cloth  or  muleta  is  flaunted  in  front  of  the  bull.  The  maddened  animal  closes  his 
eyes  and  makes  one  more  dash  for  life  and  falls  in  death,  the  sword  of  the 

matador  is  thrust  between  the  shoulders 
to  the  hilt  and  has  pierced  the  animal’s 
heart. 

Wild  bursts  of  applause  fill  the  air, 
hats,  canes,  cigars  by  the  bushel  are 
thrown  into  the  ring  by  the  delighted 
spectators,  men  shout  and  sing,  ladies 
wave  their  handkerchiefs  and  mantillas, 
the  matador  bows  his  acknowledgments, 
throws  the  hats  and  canes  back  to  their 
owners,  who  seem  grateful  that  he  should 
honor  them  thus. 

The  band  plays,  the  gates  are  opened, 
three  gaudily  decorated  mules  harnessed 
abreast  are  driven  in,  a rope  is  thrown  over  the  dead  bull’s  horns  and  he  is 
dragged  out. 

> The  wait  between  the  acts  is  not  more  than  a minute,  the  bugle  calls,  the  low 
doors  open  and  another  bull  gallops  in,  and  thus  till  six  are  killed  at  each  performance. 
The  skill  and  agility  of  the  performers  is  something  wonderful  and  consists  in  holding 


INCITING  THE  BULL  WITH  THE  MULETA. 


BANDERILLERO  CALLING  THE  BULL. 


28 


MEXICO . 


The  Thrust  of  the  Sword. 


'the  red  cloak  in  such  a wav  that  the  bull  rushes  for  the  cloth  instead  of  him  who 
holds  it.  The  bull  shuts  his  eyes  and  does  not  see  the  man  as  he  quickly  steps  to  one 

side  and  escapes,  but  often  he  must  save  his 
life  by  flight  and  a leap  over  the  barrier 
around  the  ring. 

The  Plaza  de  Toros  is  the  bull  ring  ; the 
funcion  is  the  performance  ; the  best  seats 
are  on  the  shady  side,  those  in  the  sun  being 
sold  at  cheap  prices.  Seats  in  the  shade  $2 
t > 33  ; boxes  from  612  to  $20,  according  to 
the  company  playing. 

The  star  fighter  is  a matador  or  espada 
— he  it  is  who  finally  kills  the  bull  with 
the  sword.  The  banderillero  is  the  man  who 
thrusts  the  banderillas  in  the  animal’s 
shoulders,  and  the  bander  ilia  is  a dart  with  a barbed  point  ornamented  with  colored 
ribbons.  The  little  plait  of  hair  or  queue 
worn  on  the  back  of  the  head  by  a bull- 
fighter indicates  that  he  has  passed  the  de- 
gree of  banderillero.  If  he  commits  any 
offense  against  the  code  of  ethics  or  re- 
peatedly fails  in  the  act  of  placing  the  ban- 
derillas, his  queue  is  cut  off  in  public  and 
he  is  forever  disgraced.  The  picador  is  the 
man  on  horseback,  but  he  don’t  stay  there 
long  after  the  entrance  of  the  bull ; yet 
while  he  does  he  goads  with  a pike  or  pole 
with  a steel  point.  The  capeadores  are  the 
men  who  handle  the  capes  or  cloaks  which 
are  flaunted  in  the  bull’s  face  to  worry. 

The  muleta  is  the  red  cloth  used  by  the  espada  at  the  killing,  and  the  cachetero  is  he 
who  puts  the  finishing  dagger  stroke  between  the  horns  ; and  when  he  has  done  so 
six  times  (if  there  are  only  six  bulls)  the  show  is  oyer. 


The  Carrying  away  of  the  Bull. 


THE  CITY  OF  MEXICO. 


that  November  day,  when,  more  than  three  hundred  years  ago,  Hernando 
(^7  Cortez  left  Texcoco,  climbed  the  eastern  hills  beyond  the  lake,  and  looked 
across  the  waters  on  the  temple  Tenochitlan,  he  looked  with  no  less  wonder 
than  the  peaceful  invaders  of  to-day  who  come  through  the  Tajo  de  Nochis- 
tongo,  and  see  from  Huehuetoca  the  towers  of  the  City  of  Mexico,  that  are  built  and 
where  stood  the  temples  of  Tenochitlan.  In  1519  that  ancient  Aztec  city  was  in  the 
midst  of  the  plain  where  Mexico’s  capital  is,  and  the  chief  temple  stood  on  the 
Cathedral’s  site. 

When  Cortez  came  it  was  after  a more  wearisome  journey  than  is  the  lot  of  the 
more  modern  visitor.  Montezuma  met  his  guest  at  the  causeways  and  with  a 
special  committee  (this  was  the  first  Montezuma  special)  of  a hundred  thousand 
warriors,  while  the  reception  of  to-day  is  less  imposing,  but  as  warm  and  welcome, 
from  something  less  than  a hundred  thousand  cocheros  who,  with  their  green  flags 
and  blue,  red  flags  and  white,  will  welcome  the  coming  man  to  Mexico  at  a price 
indicated  by  the  colors  displayed  on  their  coches ; to  be  explicit  and  make  a wide 
stride  from  romantic  history  "to  the  practical  matters  of  to-day,  the  reception  com- 
mittee of  Mexico  is  the  same  as  in  the  American  city — the  hackman  is  the  committee. 

There  is  a difference  in  favor  of  the  Mexican  “ cabby,”  in  that  you  do  not  have  to 
ask  the  rate  of  fare,  even  if  you  know  how.  Each  vehicle  carries  a small  tin  flag 
about  four  by  two  inches,  which  must  always  be  nailed  to  the  mast  unless  engaged. 

These  flags  indicate  the  class  of  vehicle  and  the  tariff.  Those  with  a green 
flag  make  a rate  of  $1.50  per  hour  or  75  cents  per  single  passenger  for  a short 
drive  within  a district ; the  blue  flag  hires  for  $1  by  the  hour  or  50  cents  per 
passenger  ; the  red,  75  cents  per  hour  or  25  cents  per  passenger ; the  white  flags 
are  the  cheapest,  being  only  50  cents  per  hour  or  whatever  the  passenger  will  pay, 
and  if  the  red  or  white  flags  are  selected,  it  is  purely  from  an  economical  point 
of  view,  with  no  pretense  to  style  of  rig,  and  with  no  particular  desire  as  to  when 
the  destination  is  to  bo  reached.  If  overcharges  are  made,  and  Mexican  hackmen 
are  not  unlike  their  American  brethren,  ask  for  the  number.  Numero  is  the  word 
to  use,  and  he  will  usually  lapse  to  tariff  rates.  If  a carriage  is  wanted  for  a single 
trip,  simply  call  the  name  of  the  place  ; if  by  the  hour,  say  “por  hora,”  and  the 
prices  will  be  given,  green  flags,  “ un  peso  y cuatro  reales  /”  blue,  “ un  peso ; ” red, 
sew  reales white,  “ cuatro  reales .”  After  dark,  and  on  feast  days  and  Sundays, 
these  figures  are  increased  to  $2,  green  ; $1.50,  blue  ; $1,  red  ; and  75  cents  for  white. 

It  is  easy  to  find  one’s  way  about  the  city,  and  the  fact  that  all  prominent  horse-car 
lines  start  from  and  return  to  the  Plaza  Mayor,  in  front  of  the  Cathedral,  makes 
eoiiftision  impossible. 

The  street-car  system  in  the  City  of  Mexico  is  a good  one,  reaching  all  railway 
stations  and  nearly  every  point  of  interest  in  and  around  the  city.  Fares  in  the  city 
un  medio  (61  cents),  to  the  suburbs  un  real  (121  cents),  and  dos  reales  (25  cents),  ac- 
cording t©  the  distanced  traveled.  These  are  first-class  fares,  the  tariff  and  second- 
class  cars  being  much  cheaper,  but  are  only  patronized  by  the  poorer  classes.  The 
second-class  cars  are  painted  green  and  follow  a half  block  behind  the  yellow  first- 
class  cars.  Parties  desiring  to  visit  points  of  interest  may  hire  a special  car  as  one 
would  a carriage,  for  the  afternoon  or  all  day. 

The  horse-car  driver  carries  a tin  horn,  not  unlike  the  campaign  horn  of  the 


30 


MEXICO. 


United  States,  and  which  he  blows  as  assiduously,  as  a note  of  warning  at  street 
intersections.  Conductors  sell  tickets  and  a collector  gets  on  the  cars  at  certain 
points  of  the  route  and  takes  them  up. 

The  street-car  companies  do  not  confine  their  operations  to  the  passenger  business 
solely,  they  do  a freight  business  as  well.  Another  feature  of  their  business  ap- 
proaches the  trade  of  the  undertaker.  Each  line  has  it  funeral  car,  black,  with  a 
four-poster  pagoda  surmounted  by  a cross,  under  which  is  a black  catafalque.  An 
arrangement  of  this  kind  is  cheaper  than  the  hearse  and  carriages.  You  order  a 
funeral  car  to  be  at  the  nearest  point  to  the  residence,  the  corpse  is  put  on  board  and 
the  mourners  follow  in  the  other  cars,  regular  or  special,  and  instead  of  paying  for 
carriages  you  simply  pay  so  much  per  mourner.  But  this  is  a digression  from  the 
tourist  topic. 

It  is  not  possible  to  name  the  schedules  here  ; suffice  to  say  that  cars  leave  the 
Plaza  Mayor  at  short  intervals  of  from  fifteen  to  thirty  minutes  morning  and  after- 
noon and  less  frequently  in  the  evening,  when  the  fares  are  increased. 

Nearly  all  the  points  of  interest  in  and  around  the  city  may  be  more  con- 
veniently, comfortably  and  quickly  reached  by  car  than  carriage. 

The  hill  and  church  of  Guadaloupe  is  at  the  end  of  a most  interesting  horse-car 
excursion.  Cars  leave  the  Plaza  Mayor  half  hourly,  and  after  running  through  the 
narrow  streets  cross  the  marshes  on  a broad  causeway  where  there  is  paved  road 
lined  with  trees — used  in  ancient  times  and  now  by  processions  from  the  city  to 
Guadaloupe.  Many  shrines  along  the  route  are  still  standing,  and  here  the  people 
stopped  to  invoke  the  blessing  of  this  saint  or  that  as  the  pilgrimage  moved  on  to 
the  holiest  shrine. 

There  are  churches  and  churches  in  Mexico,  with  pictures  and  pictures  and  pic- 
tures, but  Guadaloupe  is  the  holiest  shrine  in  Mexico  and  has  the  most  mysterious 
picture — a representation  of  the  Virgin — which,  although  nearly  400  years  old  and 
appearing  on  an  Indian  tilma  of  the  cheapest,  commonest  sort,  and  during  three 
centuries  has  been  exposed  to  a salty  deteriorating  air,  its  colors  are  bright  and  fresh 
as  if  painted  yesterday  ; and  in  proof  of  its  alleged  divine  origin  the  decay  of 
surrounding  pictures  is  pointed  out,  while  this  remains  fresh  and  bright.  The  legend 
says  that  a pious  Indian,  Juan  Diego  by  name,  was  surprised  by  an  apparition  of 
the  Virgin,  who  commanded  him  to  gather  flowers  on  the  barren  hill  where  she 
appeared  and  where  the  church  now  stands.  To  gather  flowers  in  such  a place  seemed 
impossible,  but  he  found  them  there,  gathered  them  in  his  tilma  and  carried  them  to 
the  priest  with  the  message  that  a shrine  to  the  Virgin  must  be  erected  on  the  spot. 
The  Indian’s  story  was  not  believed,  but  when  the  flowers  were  emptied  from  his  tilma 
there  appeared  a mq3t  perfect  picture  of  the  Virgin,  in  style  and  color  different  from 
any  other,  and  in  such  colors  that  even  the  artists  of  to-day  have  not  been  able  to 
fathom  their  ingredients  or  the  laying  on  of  such  material.  The  church  wTas  built  as 
it  stands  to-day,  and  over  its  altar,  in  a frame  of  gold,  hangs  the  tilma  with  the 
mysterious  picture.  A fund  of  some  millions  of  dollars  has  been  collected  to 
provide  a crown  of  gold,  but  waits  the  sanction  of  the  powers  that  be  at  Rome  before 
the  plan  can  be  carried  out.  A graphic  and  learned  description  of  the  picture 
appears  in  the  New  York  World  of  December  16,  1888,  in  which  its  mysteries  and  the 
legend  are  discussed  by  Mr.  T.  B.  Connery. 

The  cars  arrive  at  the  village  about  a league  from  the  city,  and  stop  in  front  of 
the  church  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  where  the  shrine  of  Guadaloupe  is.  Passing 
through  a little  garden  or  park  to  the  right  of  the  church,  one  comes  to  a small 
chapel  in  the  entrance  of  which  is  a fountain  of  pure,  clear  water,  which  is  said  to 
have  gushed  forth  on  the  spot  where  the  Virgin  stood  when  she  appeared  to  Juan 
Diego.  From  this  spot  around  the  corner  of  a narrow  street,  are  some  stone  stairs 


HILL  AND  CHURCH  OF  GUADALOUPE. 


31 


leading  to  the  shrine  or  chapel  on  the  crest  of  the  hill  where  Juan  gathered  the 
flowers,  and  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  spots  in  all  Mexico.  On  ascending  the 
stairs,  may  be  seen  on  the  right  near  the  top,  what  seems  to  be  a ship’s  mast  with 
sails  all  set,  done  in  stone.  A legend  says  that  some  storm-tossed  sailors  prayed  to 
the  Virgin  of  Guadaloupe  and  vowed  that  if  they  were  saved  from  a watery  grave 
they  would  carry  the  mast  to  the  shrine  and  erect  it  there  as  a memorial  and  thank- 
offering — which  ’tis  said  they  did  carry  it  from  Vera  Cruz,  incased  it  in  stone,  and 
erected  it  where  it  stands  to-day. 

The  tales  and  legends  of  this  interesting  spot  are  innumerable  and  may  not  be 
related  here,  as  there  is  not  space  to  tell  of  feasts  and  fasts,  of  the  millions  of  money 


At  Guadaloupe,  near  the  City  of  Mexico. 

of  its  cost  and  the  richness  of  decoration — all  this  must  be  read  of  in  books  of  wider 
space,  or  rather  must  be  seen  as  one  of  the  objects  of  a life’s  travels. 

Among  the  other  suburban  points  of  interest  are  the  gardens  and  orchards  of  San 
Angel  and  Tacubaya,  a place  of  summer  resort  of  the  native  upper  crust  and  sort  of 
local  Monte  Carlo.  This  line  of  cars  goes  very  near  to  the  Castle  of  Chapultepec, 
but  requires  a tiresome  walk  up  the  hill ; it  is  best  to  take  a carriage  to  Chapultepec. 
Popotla  Tacuba,  and  Atzcapotzalco  are,  also,  the  objects  of  horse-car  tours  that 
are  most  interesting.  On  the  line  to  Tacuba,  which  was  once  a causeway,  is  the 
place  of  “ el  salto  de  Alvarado  ” (the  leap  of  Alvarado),  where  that  warrior  made  his 
famous  leap  for  life.  The  exact  spot,  as  shown,  is  in  front  of  the  Tivoli  del  Eliseo. 
At  the  end  of  the  causeway,  near  the  church  of  San  Esteban,  is  the  tree  of  Noche  Triste 
(the  dismal  night),  where  Cortez  sat  down  and  cried  after  his  defeat.  The  tree  is  a 
giant  ahuehuete  or  cypress,  of  great  age,  now  inclosed  with  an  iron  rail  to  prevent  a 


32 


MEXICO . 


recurrence  of  further  vandalism,  as  occurred  some  years  ago,  by  a crank  having  set 
it  on  fire.  There  are  cranks  in  Mexico,  too. 

The  floating  gardens,  chinampas,  on  the  Viga  canal,  are  reached  by  horse-cars 
from  the  Plaza  Mayor,  near  the  Cathedral,  to  Embarcadero,  and  thence  by  canoe  for 
a few  hours  or  for  a day.  The  boats  are  a sort  of  Mexican  edition  of  a Venetian 
gondola,  broad  and  flat-bottomed  with  seats  underneath  a canopy  in  bright  colors  ; 
the  boats  are  propelled  by  a pole  in  the  hands  of  a dusky  gondolier.  The  excursion 
is  altogether  a novel  one,  particularly  on  (Sundays  and  feast  days,  and  should  not  be 
overlooked.  Unless  you  are  thoroughly  Mexican  it  is  best  to  make  a picnic  of  it 
and  take  your  provender  along,  but  there  will  come  alongside  a longer  and  narrower 
canoe  hewn  from  the  trunk  of  a single  tree.  In  one  end  of  this  quaint  craft  stands  a 
swarthy  Mexican  with  a single  oar  of  long  handle — in  the  other  a comely  woman  and 
often  a pretty  girl,  who  will  offer  for  a tlaco  or  a cuartilla , the  native  sandwich,  a tor- 
tilla con  came  or  a tortilla  con  dulce.  I offer  no  advice  as  to  this  purchase,  but  the 
tortillas  of  La  Viga  as  I found  them  were  clean  and  toothsome. 

This  excursion  is  the  most  novel  of  all.  The  boatmen  meet  the  horse-cars  at  the 
terminus  and  bid  against  each  other  for  patronage  ; there  is  no  regular  tariff,  twenty- 
five  cents  (dos  reales)  each  passenger  is  sufficient  to  Santa  Anita  and  return  ; the  longer 
excursions  to  the  lakes  and  towns  beyond,  of  course,  cost  more.  Santa  Anita  is  a 
sort  of  native  Coney  Island  and  is  a great  resort,  but  the  charm  is  in  the  ride 
thither,  passing  under  the  low-arched  bridges,  the  market  boats  laden  with  fruits 
and  flowers,  which  must  stop  at  the  La  Viga  gate  and  pay  a duty  to  the  city,  levied 
on  all  imports  from  the  country.  There  are  great,  long  flat-bottomed  passenger 
packets  also  propelled  by  poles  going  to  and  from  the  towns  across  on  the  other 
shores  of  Texcoco,  Xocliimilco  and  Chaleo,  crowded  with  men,  women  and  children 
and  dogs  starting  or  returning  from  a voyage  of  a day  and  a night.  ~ 

Any  day  will  do  for  the  La  Viga  voyage  ; but  Sunday,  or  better  still,  on  a feast 
day,  there  will  be  flowers  afloat  and  ashore,  and  music,  music  everywhere,  of  all  sorts 
from  the  tinkle  of  a guitar  to  blare  of  a brass  band  ; gayly  dressed  men  and  more 
gayly  dressed  women,  singing  and  dancing  on  the  boats  or  under  the  trees  of  the 
Paseo  de  La  Viga  which  runs  along  the  canal. 

The  floating  gardens,  it  is  said,  really  were  entitled  to  the  name,  but  now  are 
only  bits  of  land  with  little  canals  instead  of  walks  through  the  beds  and  plots. 

On  the  banks  of  La  Viga  once  lived  El  Senor  Don  Juan  Corona  of  most  happy 
memory,  revered  for  deeds  of  daring,  and  loved  for  his  charity  ; he  was  not  a sol- 
dier or  a Sunday-school  superintendent ; in  life  Don  Juan  wt.s  a bull-fighter,  and 
much  renowned  in  his  day,  but  his  career  is  not  to  be  written  here. 

Ask  your  gondolier  to  stop  at  the  hacienda  of  Don  Juan  Corona.  Enter  beneath 
a hospitable  roof  and  find  a house  intensely  Mexican,  shaded  by  trees  and  almost 
hidden  by  climbing  vines  and  flowers.  Every  room  is  a museum  in  itself  filled  with 
relics  of  every  age  and  time  of  Mexico’s  history,  curious  objects  collected  from  all 
over  the  country,  in  dozens  and  scores  ; there  is  a cigar-case  once  owned  by  the 
patriot  priest  Hidalgo,  also  a pistol  and  sword  carried  by  him  ; some  pieces  from  the 
table  service  of  the  Emperor  Maxmilian  ; several  idols  found  in  the  pyramids  of 
San  Juan  Teotihuacan  ; weapons,  feathers  and  war-dresses  used  by  the  Aztecs  ; one 
of  the  guns  with  which  Maximilian  was  shot ; the  bed  used  by  General  Santa  Anna, 
while  President  of  Mexico  ; a rifle  used  by  General  Miramon  in  the  siege  of 
Queretaro  ; a magnificent  collection  of  chicaras  (chocolate  cups)  painted  by  the 
Indians  of  the  State  of  Michoacan  ; very  curious  ancient  bull-fighter  dresses,  among 
which  is  the  one  used  by  the  Spanish  matador  Bernardo  Gavino  when  he  was  killed 
in  the  ring  at  Texcoco. 

The  collection  of  this  bric-a-brac  was  Don  Juan’s  hobby  ; but  another  and  more 


LA  VIGA  CANAL. 


33 


philanthropic  pleasure  of  his  was  the  care  of  children  of  the  poor  of  La  Yiga,  and 
from  his  savings  he  established  a school  for  them,  where  they  were  not  only  taught 
but  clothed  and  fed  ; he  was  known  as  the  “ father  of  the  destitute.” 

The  school  still  exists  and 
will  be  shown  in  one  of  the 
rooms  of  the  hacienda.  As 
you  enter,  the  bright  little 
beneficiaries  of  Corona’s 
bounty  rise  in  salutation. 

The  school  has  not  the 
ample  means  it  had  in  the 
life  of  its  founder,  and  any 
offering  made  will  not  only  be 
acceptable  but  is  a tribute  to 
the  memory  of  a good  man. 

The  Paseo,  or,  to  be  ex- 
plicit, the  Paseo  de  la  Refor- 
ma, is  the  drive  of  the  city. 

Carriages  are  necessary  to  the 
proper  seeing  of  the  Paseo 
and  to  save  a walk  up  the 
steep  hill  at  Chapultepec.  It 
is  about  2$  miles  long,  reaches 
from  the  city  to  Chapultepec, 
and  is  a magnificent  boule- 
vard, where  the  bon  ton  are 
pleased  to  drive  every  aft?r- 
noon  from  four  o’clock  till 
dark,  when  the  magnificent 
procession  of  fine  equipages 
files  down  San  Prancisco 
street  and  disperses.  The  car- 
riageway is  broad  and  shaded 
by  great  trees,  two  rows  on 
each  side,  between  which  is 
a wide  promenade.  At  regu- 
lar intervals  the  Paseo  widens 
into  a glorieta,  a circle  400  feet 
in  dimeter,  where  there  are 
stone  benches.  In  three  of 
these  circles  are  to  be  placed 
statues  of  the  nation’s  he- 
roes : that  of  Charles  IV. , 
said  to  be  the  largest  bronze 
in  the  world,  is  at  the  en- 
trance, and  Columbus  and 
Guatimotzin  farther  along  ; 

Juarez  and  others  are  to  be 
placed  in  the  other  glorietas.  At  the  farther  end  of  the  Paseo  rises  the  hill  and  castle 
of  Chapultepec,  surrounded  by  a forest  of  cypress  which  is  not  surpassed  for  magnifi- 
cence on  this  continent.  The  grand  old  trees,  most  of  which  must  date  back  over 
twenty  centuries,  rise  in  sombre  majesty  above  those  of  ordinary  growdh,  like  a race 


In  the  Paseo,  City  of  Meyico. 


34 


MEXICO. 


of  giants  among  pigmies,  and  the  dim  aisles  beneath  their  lower  branches  are  made 
still  more  beautiful  by  the  almost  intangible  softness  of  draperies  of  gray  moss  fes- 
tooned and  swaying  from  limb  to  limb.  Through  this  wood,  shadowy  as  twilight 
even  at  a middav,  the  carriage  road  winds  and  mounts  to  the  summit.  Standing  on 
the  terrace,  whence  rises  the  grand  old  castle,  one  looks  across  the  Valley  of  Mexico. 
Surely,  of  all  beautiful  outlooks  in  this  beautiful  world,  the  most  wondrous  is  this  ! 

With  the  remembrance  strong  upon  me  of  scenes  in  other  lands  which  have  been 

inspiration  and  delight, 
with  the  memory  of  the 
Yosemite  in  its  blended 
aspect  of  mystery  and 
majesty  still  foremost  in 
thought,  this  heavenly 
landscape  loses  nothing. 
Even  the  glamour  which 
ever  surrounds  the  past 
fades  before  the  reality. 
From  this  beautiful  spot 
one  looks  across  a valley 
fair  as  a dream  of  para- 
dise, with  soft  green  fields 
and  waving  hedges  and 
avenues  of  lofty  trees  out- 
lining gray  country  roads 
that  fade  into  the  azure 
distance.  A faint  line  of 
pale  blue  mountains,  pur- 
ple sometimes  with  deep 
shadow,  rest  like  brood- 
ing and  watchful  spirits 
around  the  dim  horizon  ; 
and  farthest  of  all,  beau- 
tiful with  that  sublime 
sense  of  remoteness  and 
awfulness  which  belongs 
only  to  them,  the  solemn 
presence  of  Popocatapetl 
and  Ixtaccihuatl  rises  like 
radiant  clouds  against  the 
serene  heavens  above. 
Everything  we  had  before 
known  of  mountain  sce- 
nery becomes  secondary  in  the  imagination  compared  with  these  wonderful  heights  ! 
The  great  serenity  of  the  plain,  the  softly  changing  greens  which  cover  its  entire 
extent,  and  the  undulating,  exquisite  line  of  hills,  like  the  frame  of  some  rich  jewel, 
is  something  unspeakable  when  contrasted  with  the  grand  solitary  state  of  these 
twin  monarchs  who  dominate  them  all.  If  no  more  of  loveliness  than  this  view  can 
give  were  added  to  one’s  inner  life,  the  journey  to  Mexico  would  be  fully  requited. 

Chapultepec  was  once  the  favorite  park  of  Montezuma  ; later  the  palace  built  there 
by  one  of  the  Viceroys  of  Spain  (Galvey)  was  used  by  Maximilian,  and  is  now  the 
residence  of  the  President,  the  Mexican  White  House.  The  park  and  hill  was  the 
scene  of  a conflict  between  the  United  States  troops  and  Mexicans  in  1847,  when  the 


Church  op  San  Domingo,  City  of  Mexico. 


The  paseo  and  chapultepec. 


35 


hill  was  carried  by  assault.  Besides  the  presidential  residence,  the  national  Military 
Academy  is  also  located  here.  A pass  to  the  buildings  may  be  had  from  the  Gover- 
nor of  the  National  Palace  in  the  city. 

The  views  from  the  wide  galleries  of  the  palace  are  grandly  magnificent.  On  one 
side  are  the  volcanoes,  on  another  the  fields  of  Cherubusco  and  Molino  del  Key,  and 
trom  the  front  the  grand  view  of  the  city,  lakes  and  the  plain,  with  towns  and  villages 
everywhere,  with  the  mountains  on  the  other  side.  In  the  foreground  are  the  great 
cypresses  of  the  park,  the  rocks  and  steep  hillsides,  Moctezuma’s  Bath,  and  the  old 
aqueduct  of  the  city’s  water  supply. 

The  interior  decorations  are  beautiful  and  unique  to  a degree,  with  Pompeiian 
color  and  decoration  in  the  tiled  galleries.  A smoking-room  has  hangings  of  satin 
and  plush.  A desk 
and  dresser  in  an- 
other is  inlaid  pearl 
and  onyx.  A ban- 
quet-hall reached 
by  a fine  stair-way 
has  a ceiling  deco- 
rated with  coats  of 
arms  from  1474  to 
1887.  A drawing- 
room has  the  walls 
hung  in  the  most 
delicately  tinted  sa- 
tin— has  tapestries 
and  the  richest 
ebony  furniture. 

Bedrooms  with  the 
daintiest  boudoirs 
are  furnished  in 
regal  elegance. 

The  palace  is  on 
the  very  crest  of 
the  hill,  approach- 
ed by  only  one  winding  road,  and  must  have  been  a formidable  place 

to  take  by  assault.  A subterranean  passage  leads  from  the  garden  to  a cave  at  the 
foot  of  the  hill  in  the  park,  where  there  are  some  rocks  with  strangely  appearing  hiero- 
glyphics which  have  been  ciphered  out  as  the  dates  and  names  of  Aztec  history. 

•The  tree  of  Montezuma  (arbol  de  Montezuma ) is  also  shown,  where  that  chieftain 
wept,  as  Cortez  did  under  his  tree,  and  also  for  defeat. 

It  is  a good  plan  to  start  to  Chapultepec  about  noon,  reaching  the  Paseo  on  the 
return  in  time  to  join  the  procession  and  see  Mexico’s  “ upper-ten  ” on  wheels. 

J.  It  is  not  expected  to  describe  the  Cathedral  and  the  churches  here,  there  are  127 
of  them,  and  it  is  a never-ending  tale  of  towers,  bells,  crosses,  images,  pictures  and 
legends  from  beginning  to  end,  from  San  Domingo,  of  Inquisition  fame,  and  San 
Hipolito,  mentioned  with  the  slaughter  of  the  noche  iriste,  to  the  Cathedral,  which 
is  a grand  aggregation  of  all  styles  and  designs  of  church  architecture  in  Mexico,  so 
that  any  detail  of  the  story  cannot  be  related  here.  There  are  churches  everywhere 
and  more  building,  so  that  no  directory  is  needed  for  their  finding.  Besides,  there 
are  schools,  academies  and  colleges  without  number,  among  which  are  the  Pre- 
paratory School,  San  Carlos  Academy,  the  Encarnacion  School  for  young  ladies  and 
the  College  of  La  Paz,  each  worthy  of  a visit. 


36 


MEXICO . 


The  Mint,  the  National  Palace,  the  National  Museum  are  ail  places  of  interest, 
in  the  centre  of  the  city,  which  can  be  visited  in  the  walks  about  town.  The  Mu- 
seum is  rich  in  antiquities  of  bygone  ages,  and  the  relics  ot  fallen  and  past  dynas- 
ties in  the  country’s  history  which  must  be  older  than  Egypt,  reading  from  examples 
of  Aztec  picture  writing,  Moctezuma’s  shield  and  the  statue  of  Huitzilopochtli,  the 
£od  of  war,  down  to  Maxmilian’s  coach  of  state  and  his  dinner  service. 

In  the  National  Library  are  over  200,000  volumes,  in  all  languages.  Old  books 
and  new.  Books  over  400  years  old.  Books  on  vellum  and  parchment.  Books  that 


the  British  Museum  has  not  got,  but  would  like  to  have.  There  is  an  atlas  of  England 
printed  in  Amsterdam  in  1659,  with  steel  plates  and  in  colors  that  are  as  bright  and 
fresh  as  if  just  off  the  press.  Another  volume  bears  date  of  1472,  and  another  is  still 
older,  printed  in  two  colors  with  a most  perfect  register.  There  is  a Spanish  and 
Mexican  dictionary,  printed  in  Mexico  in  1571.  There  is  a book  of  autographs  of 
notables  and  soldiers  of  Cortez.  A roll  of  deerskin  shows  some  original,  dispatches, 
(painted  pictures)  sent  by  Moctezuma  to  his  allies,  but  intercepted  by  Cortez.  There 
are  original  manuscripts  and  immense  volumes  with  every  old  English  letter  done 
with  a pen.  There  are  rare  books  of  all  ages  and  nations,  from  a Chinese  dictionary 
to  Picturesque  B.  & O. , and  a copy  of  the  Pointer. 

The  Monte  Piedad  is  the  national. “ uncle ” of  the  impecunious  Mexican  ; here 
he  brings  his  pledges  and  borrows  what  they  will  bring.  The  institution  was  estab- 
lished to  lend  money  on  collateral  at  a low  rate  of  interest,  and  is  under  direct  control 
of  the  Government.  Unredeemed  pledges  are  exposed  for  sale  at  a certain  price  ; if 
not  sold  within  a given  time  they  are  marked  lower,  and  after  a while  still  lower, 
and  thus  often  some  rare  bargains  in  old  jewels  and  heirlooms  are  obtained. 

The  theatres  are  Principal , Arbeu,  National , Alarcon  and  Hidalgo , which,  with  Orrin’s 


PUBLIC  BUILDINGS  AND  PLAZAS. 


37 


Circus,  form  the  amusements  of  the  city,  excepting  always  the  bull-fights.  The 
non-Spanish-speaking  American  will  hardly  be  amused  at  the  theatres,  but  at  the 
extremely  novel  circus  cannot  fail  to  be  pleased.  There  are  three  Plazas  de  Toros  in 
the  city,  where  the  national  sport  of  bull-fighting  is  carried  on  in  the  highest  style 
of  the  art,  and  with  such  artists  as  Ponciano  Diaz  and  “ Cuatro  Dedos  ” the  perfor- 
mances are  said  to  rival  those  of  old  Spain,  and  there  breathes  no  Mexican  with 
soul  so  dead,  who  e’er  to  himself  hath  said — that  Mazzantini  was  any  sort  of  a bull- 
fighter alongside  of  his  own  Ponciano.  Sundays  and  feast  days  are  the  days  for  the 
bull-fights,  and  the  three  rings  have  crowded  houses.  The  sport  "was  formerly  inter- 
dicted in  the  Federal  District,  but  the  will  of  the  people  was  too  strong,  and  the  law 
was  repealed. 

The  Alameda  and  the  Zocalo  are  the  places  of  resort  by  the  people  at  all  times, 
where  they  come  for  rest  and  recreation,  come  to  walk  under  the  shade  of  the  trees 
or  sit  among  the  flowers,  and  listen  to  the  melodies  of  their  country,  listen  to  music 
that  is  the  gift  of  the  Government  to  its  people.  On  Sundays  and  feast  days,  and  in 
the  evenings  during  the  week,  military  bands  play  at  this  park  or  the  other,  so  there 
is  music  somewhere  all  the  time  ; and  so  it  is  in  every  city  in  Mexico,  and  very  many 


towns  and  villages  have  the  same  pleasant  feature  of  entertainment  for  the  citizens, 
and  they  are  appreciative.  When  these  concerts  are  on,  the  alamedas  or  zocalos  are 
crowded — the  rich  and  poor  assemble  there,  and  while  they  do  not  mingle  they  are 
alike  contented,  and  seem  appreciative  for  a gift  which  is  not  so  freely  accorded  the 
people  even  in  this  great  and  enlightened  country. 

The  markets  are  interesting  to  every  tourist  ; the  fruits  of  the  tropics  are  there, 
fresh  from  the  gardens  and  groves  of  the  “ hot  lands,”  only  a few  leagues  away.  All 
the  vegetables  of  this  country,  and  which  are  grown  in  summer  here,  are  in  the  stalls 


38 


MEXICO . 


there  in  January.  Strawberries  and  green  corn,  peas  and  water-melons  and  every- 
thing of  our  summer  gardens,  grow  under  Mexico’s  genial  skies  all  the  year  round. 

And  as  to  flowers — I have  seen  great  bunches  of  violets  in  the  glass-covered  pagoda 
under  the  shadow  of  the  Cathedral,  go  begging  sale  at  a tlaco ; a handful  of  roses, 
worth  a dollar  each  in  New  York,  offered  for  a medio  ; a basket  of  flowers  for  a real , 
and  one  two  feet  high  for  a half-dollar  ; I saw  all  this  the  day  I read  of  the  fearful 
blizzard  at  home,  and  wondered  at  such  a climate  that  could  produce  them  in  a 
country  nearly  8,000  feet  above  the  sea. 

The  markets  of  Merced  and  Volador  are  just  a square  or  two  south  of  the  Palace, 
and  a little  farther  on  is  the  canal,  with  its  waters  covered  with  boats  and  the  banks 


The  Palace,  City  of  Mexico. 


with  the  hucksters.  The  San  Juan  and  Catarina  are  on  the  squares  of  the  same 
name,  all  with  more  or  less  interest  to  the  visitor. 

In  the  walks  or  rides  about  the  City  of  Mexico  or  the  other  large  cities,  the  visitor 
ma™i  e ^sured  hls  safety — the  police  system  is  a good  one. 

-the  Mexican  policeman  is  costumed  with  a hooded  garment,  and  as  he  stands  at 
the  street  corner  at  night  looks  not  unlike  the  brigand  of  the  stage.  In  the  City  of 
Mexico  a policeman  stands  at  each  street  intersection  all  over  the  city.  He  lias  a 
n thhToTn^  I?  plamS  m ^.middle  °,f  ‘l16  street-  Whether  there  is  more  protection 
said  o?  sor^meri^nciS.  * f°'md  wheB  WanW-  Aud  that  is  more  tba»  be 

Zo"re^midayi,m  the  C,ity  °!  5£exic0  take  a "’alk  through  the  portales  near  the 
Zocola  and  see  the  peculiar  traffic  carried  on  there.  Hundreds  of  people  offer 

-tTaffoodfamCnnd^andi  artilleS  f°r  Sale-  Tlie  most  varied  assortment  is  on  hand 
goods  aie  spiead  out  on  the  pavement  and  customers  waited  for  I took  stock 

for  one  man ; he  had  . 1 scythe ; 3 electrotypes ; 1 jewelry  case  j 1 monkey  wrench ; 


MARKETS  AND  STORES. 


39 


2 crosses  ; 1 set  of  teeth  ; 1 sofa  ; 1 bung-starter  ; 6 balls  twine  ; 1 book  ; 1 guitar  ; 
a quart  of  nails  ; 3 tape  measures  ; 1 hoop  skirt  and  a bouquet. 

Speaking  of  signs,  the  stores  of  Mexico  all  have  fancy  names,  more  or  less 
appropriate.  Another  sign  indicates  the  stock  for  sale.  Z<t paler ia  indicates  shoes. 
Plateria , silver  ware.  Bonneteria , millinery.  Joyeria,  jewelry.  Botica , drugs. 
Peluqueria,  a barber  shop.  But  it  is  the  pulque  shop  that  has  the  unique  sign.  One 
is  called  “ El  triunfo  del  diablo,”  the  triumph  of  the  devil.  Another,  “La  cola  del 
diablo  rojo ,”  the  tail  of  the  red  devil. 

An  advertiser  of  furniture  and  bedding  recommends  his  “El  colchon  blindardo ,” 
the  ironclad  mattress.  Instead  of  the  auction  store,  the  red  flag  indicates  the  butcher. 

There  are  some  fine  stores,  and  shopjiing  in  Mexico  is  a novel  experience  in  every 
way  for  ladies — and  they  will  be  treated  with  every  courtesy  ; but  the  American 
shopper  need  not  be  surprised  if  the  salesman  smokes  while  he  waits  on  her.  Don’t 
put  too  much  faith  in  the  sign  “Inglish  spoken.”  I asked  a clerk  if  he  spoke 
English.  He  said  “A  few.”  He  told  the  truth. 

And  last  of  all  where  you  will  go  to  are  the  cemeteries  ; San  Fernando  contains 
the  tombs  of  some  of  the  Presidents,  and  its  great  soldiers,  and  is  also  the  resting 
place  of  Miramon  and  Mejio,  who  were  executed  with  Maxmilian.  Another  cemetery 
near  Tacubava  is  the  Dolores,  where  there  are  some  fine  monuments.  The  Ameri- 
cans, English  and  Spanish  have  se]:>arate  burial  places. 

I have  written  of  the  horse-car  funeral  trains,  but  I have  seen  other  queer  funeral 
parties,  and  sadder  ones ; I have  seen  a man  and  a woman  get  into  a second-class 
car,  he  with  a tiny  coffin  in  his  arms,  and  I have  seen  two  Indians  walking  solemnly 
along  the  street  with  a longer  coffin  on  their  shoulders,  while  the  mourners,  too  poor 
for  even  a horse-car  fare,  followed  on  foot.  These  are  the  exception,  the  brighter 
scenes  in  Mexico  are  many,  and  one  never  tires  of  a visit  to  the  ancient  city  of  the 
Moctezumas. 


Over  tiie  IIousETors,  City  of  Mexico. 


THE  HOTELS  OF  MEXICO. 


The  traveler  can  make  himself  more 
perfectly  “at  home”  in  a Mexican 
hotel  than  anywhere  in  the  world, 
for  once  assigned  to  a room  you 
are  left  severely  alone.  On 
my  first  attempt  to  register, 
before  he  would  let  me  put 
my  autograph  on  his  book, 
the  proprietor  asked  me 
if  I had  seen  my  room. 
As  I had  just  landed 
from  a three  thousand 
mile  Pullman  car  jour- 
ney, I had  mtfseen  my 
room.  There  seemed  to 
be  a doubt  in  his  mind 
whether  the  new  ar- 
rivals would  like  the 
rooms  ; if  not,  what’s 
the  use  of  using  up  the 
register  ? If,  however, 
everything  is  satisfactory, 
you  write  your  name  and  as- 
sign yourself  a room,  by  plac- 
ing the  number  opposite  your 
name.  That  done,  the  proprietor 
writes  your  name  on  a blackboard 
on  the  wall  and  goes  about  his  busi- 
ness, if  he  has  any. 

Your  room  has  an  iron  bedstead ; a single 
bedstead  it  is,  and  it  may  have  springs,  but  oftener  the  mattress  rests  on  planks — 
what  carpenters  would  call  “inch  stuff” — but  it’s  clean,  and  if  it  is  in  the  “hot 
country  ” will  have  a snowy  white  mosquito  bar,  and  the  linen  is  fresh,  the  bed  is 
never  made  up  till  the  guest  arrives.  Candles  are  furnished,  and  towels,  but  no 
soap — and  you  must  buy  your  own  matches.  I heard  a man  say,  “ Mexico  has  two 
advantages,  good  climate  and  good  matches.”  The  climate  is  free,  but  you  must 
pay  for  the  matches. 

The  Iturbide,  once  the  palace  of  the  emperor  of  that  name,  is  the  greatest  hotel 
of  all  Mexico.  The  building  is  palatial,  but  the  emperor’s  furniture  is  not  used, 
and  the  emperor  is  not  there  ; but  he  has  an  able  representative  in  the  manager  ; he  is 
not  imperious,  but  for  easy-going  he  out-emperors  an  emperor.  I was  at  Iturbide  two 
or  three  weeks,  and  I never  saw  the  manager  disturbed  in  the  least.  He  came  down 
after  breakfast,  went  to  his  dinner,  came  back  and  walked  about  the  office,  or  patio, 
till  ten  o’clock,  then  turned  off  the  electric  light,  locked  the  office  and  went  away. 
But  the  guests  never  had  any  trouble.  The  hotel  was  always  full,  but  it  was  only 
the  new  comers  who  kicked,  and  they  got  over  it  in  twenty-four  hours.  I was  amused 


Sp^vish  Lady. 


THE  HOTELS. 


41 


at  a young  American  who  arrived  a week  after  I did.  He  asked  the  manager  for 
“ two  connecting  rooms  with  bath.”  Said  the  manager  without  a ripple  of  regret 
that  he  couldn’t  comply,  “I  will  give  you  one  room  on  the  fourth  floor,  one  on  the 
second,  and  you  can  get  the 
bath  in  the  barber  shop” — p 
and  the  young  American  took 
the  rooms  without  a murmur. 

If  he  had  been  in  his  own 
country  he’d  have  gone  to 
another  hotel,  but  in  Mexico^ 
he  is  helpless. 

At  the  Hotel  Humboldt 
there  is  less  style,  but  there 
is  good  management,  food, 
and  attendance.  There  are 
English  - speaking  managers 
and  clerks,  and  things  move 
at  a livelier  gait.  All  Ameri- 
cans will  wish  the  Hotel 
Humboldt  an  abundant  suc- 
cess. The  Jardin  (pronounced 
liar-deen ) is  the  swell  hostelrie 
of  the  Mexican  capital  and  has 
a lovely  garden,  onto  which 
all  its  rooms  open,  a truly 
tropical  aspect  that  is  most 
charming. 

All  Mexican  hotels  are  on 
the  “European  plan” — order 
what  you  want,  and  take  what 
you  can  get — you  can  get  all 
you  want,  generally,  and  if 
you  like  a warm  meal  you  will 
not  be  disappointed  anywhere 
in  Mexico  unless  there  is  a 
short  crop  of  pepper.  It 
doesn’t  take  long  to  get  used 
to  Mexican  cooking,  and  then 
yoif  like  it.  Boston  has  a 
reputation  for  beans,  but  the 
frijoles  (freeholies),  the  beans 
of  Mexico,  would  make  a Bos- 
tonian cfeny  his  town,  if  that 
were  possible,  at  least  from  a 
bean  standpoint.  There  is  no 
butter  in  Mexico,  that  is,  but- 
ter as  Americans  understand 
it ; a pale  lubricator  is  manu- 
factured, generally  from  goats’  milk,  which,  with  the  addition  of  a little  salt,  makes 
a better  substitute  than  some  we  get  in  our  own  country.  Coffee  is  native  to  the 
country,  is  pure,  and  generally  well  made  ; perhaps  stronger  than  the  American  likes, 
but  good. 


An  Indian  Girl  of  Mexico. 


42 


MEXICO. 


At  Vera  Cruz,  while  I was  waiting  in  the  station  to  find  somebody  I could  talk  to, 

I was  approached  by  a Mexican  of  the  purest  African  descent,  who  accosted  me  in 
my  native  tongue,  inquiring  if  he  could  “tote  yo  grip  to  de  hotel.”  I was  glad  to 
meet  Sam  Thompson,  of  Vera  Cruz,  formerly  of  New  Orleans.  Sam  “toted”  my 
grip  to  the  hotel,  and  with  the  assistance  of  some  other  American  guests  assigned  me 
a room,  and  afterward  showed  me  the  town.  I paid  my  bill  to  a Mexican  in  a red 
blanket,  and  did  not  see  the  proprietor  or  manager  while  I stayed.  The  room  was 
pleasant,  the  bed  comfortable  and  clean,  and  I didn’t  miss  the  “boss,” as  Sam  called 
him,  just  as  if  he  was  still  in  New  Orleans.  The  story  of  Sam  Thompson,  of  Vera 
Cruz,  would  make  as  interesting  though  not  a similar  one  to  that  of  “Mr.  Barnes 
of  New  York.” 

When  I came  to  Yautepec,  I found  that  I was  a stranger  in  a strange  land — not  a 
soul  could  speak  English.  1 could  say  “hotel”  in  Spanish,  and  the  conductor  con- 
ducted me  to  “El  Gran  Central. ” I went  through  a court-yard  and  up  a stone  stair- 
way, where  an  old  Indian  woman  said  “ Cuarto  ? ” I replied  “ Si  senora and  was  shown 
to  a cleanly  apartment  where  there  were  two  iron  bedsteads  with  the  mattresses  rolled 
up.  The  woman  brought  water  and  towels.  I removed  the  travel  stains,  and  went 
out  to  look  at  the  town.  On  my  return  I found  the  bed  ready,  the  whitest  and  clean- 
est of  beds,  where  I slept  soundly  till  train  time  next  morning.  Then  I said 
“ Quanto?  ” and  the  old  Indian  replied  “ Seis  reales which  was  my  entire  conver- 
sation at  the  hotel.  The  meals  at  the  restaurant  were  good. 

A hotel  in  Toluca  includes  a theatre  a la  Niblo’s  in  the  Metropolitan  of  New  York, 
also  Russian  baths ; and  the  principal  hotel  of  Morelia  also  has  fine  baths.  These 
hotels  have  an  open  court-yard  or  patio,  where  there  are  tropical  plants,  flowers,  and 
fountains,  a distinctive  feature  of  the  Mexican  hotel,  and  a most  charming  one. 
Wide  galleries  extend  all  around  the  patio  at  each  floor  ; the  bedroom  doors  opening 
on  the  gallery  and  the  windows  extending  to  the  floor,  the  ventilation  is  complete. 

There  is  a fine  hotel  at  Zacatecas,  the  Zacatecamo,  and  at  Silao  the  hotel  and 
restaurant  at  the  station  is  far  above  the  average  even  in  this  country.  At  Aguas 
Calientes,  Guanajuato  and  Leon  there  are  good  hotels.  At  Guadalajara  they  are  bet- 
ter than  usual ; one  kept  by  a German  is  particularly  attractive,  the  rooms  open  on 
a wide  gallery  around  the  patio  which  is  filled  with  tropical  plants  and  flowers  and 
has  a playing  fountain.  If  desired,  meals  will  be  served  on  the  gallery  and  daintily 
served  as  in  a German  garden,  and  under  a bright  colored  awning  if  the  sun  shines 
your  way. 

At  San  Miguel  and  San  Luis  Potosi  the  hostelries  are  in  good  repute — at  the  latter 
the  restaurant  of  Sam  Lee  & Co.  is  worthy  of  more  than  one  visit.  As  the  name  indi- 
cates, the  proprietors  are  from  the  Celestial  Kingdom,  but  if  on  reading  this  item  any 
cry  of  “ Rats  ! ” is  heard,  it  is  entirely  without  foundation  in  fact. 

At  Saltillo,  Monterey  and  Topo  Chico  Hot  Springs,  the  hotels  and  restaurants 
are  very  good.  Hotel  rates  are  cheap.  Except  at  the  largest  hotels  room  may  be  had 
for  six  to  eight  reales — 75  cents  to  one  dollar  per  day,  and  meals  from  four  to  six  reales. 
Breakfast  is  at  noon  and  dinner  at  six  ; coffee  is  served  in  the  morning  for  one  to  two 
reales. 

A hotel  laundry  is  unknown  in  Mexico  ; the  bell  boy  will  attend  to  the  business  ; 
he  takes  your  clothes  away  and  brings  them  back  “ done  up  ; ” that  is  all  that  is 
known  or  can  be  found  out  about  it.  In  addition  to  his  duties  as  bell  boy,  this  Poo- 
Bah  of  the  upper  floors  is  chambermaid,  bootblack,  porter  and  messenger,  for  which 
extra  tips  are  expected,  wherein  the  resemblance  to  the  American  hotel  is  complete. 


SOUTH  OVER  THE  MEXICAN  CENTRAL 


Q?pHE  pioneer  rail  route,  from  the  United  States  to  Mexico,  enters  that  country 
El  Paso,  crosses  the  Bio  Grande  to  the  old  town  of  Paso  del  Norte,  now 
called  Ciudad  de  Juarez,  in  honor  of  the  Mexican  statesman,  and  commences 
the  journey  to  the  interior  on  the  rails  of  the  Mexican  Central  Railway. 

The  passers-by  at  El  Paso  cannot  resist  the  temptation  of  a glimpse  at  old 
Mexico,  whether  they  are  en  route  to  the  interior  or  to  California.  They  all  cross 
over  the  long  foot  bridge  that  spans  more  of  sands  than  river,  and  take  a look  at  the 
adobe  houses  and  the  old  church  in  Paso  del  Norte,  now  called  the  City  of  Juarez, 
just  as  they  do  a thousand  miles  farther  on.  It  is  but  a glimpse  here,  but  whets  the 
appetite  for  more  and  makes  the  tourist  glad  he  is  going. 

It  has  been  the  custom  not  to  open  the  Pullman  car  until  the  train  crosses  the 
river,  and  the  Mexican  customs  officers  have  examined  baggage.  They  are  very 
courteous,  and  their  duties  quickly  ]ierformed.  A splendid  meal — better,  I am  glad 
to  say,  as  so  much  has  been  untruthfully  said  in  this  relation  by  out-of-date  guide 
books,  than  is  the  average  in  “ The  States  ” — is  served  in  the  station  restaurant,  and 
the  train  is  ready  to  start  south. 

The  first  night  of  the  journey  is  like  that  of  the  other  lines:  dreary  and  desolate  as 
to  country  ; but  bright  anticipations  of  new  and  novel  scenes  prevent  anything  like 
monotony,  and  when  dawn  comes  on  this,  our  first  morning  in  the  sunlands,  we  are 
spinning  through  a narrow  valley,  level  as  a billiard  board — the  veritable  “ high  table 
land”  of  the  geographies,  lying  between  two  close  ranges  of  low  mountains,  shrub- 
covered  and  crowned  with  the  most  entrancing  cloud  effects  one  imagines  out  of 
fairyland.  The  soft  white  heaps,  now  tossed  above  some  climbing  summit,  now 
rolled  into  some  happy  valley  between,  are  constant  joys  to  every  eye  that  rests  upon 
them.  While  we  are  still  looking,  entranced  at  the  beauty  of  changing  form,  we  get  our 
first  glimpse  of  a hacienda.  At  the  further  end  of  the  plain  a group  of  white  buildings, 
a -wide  corral,  fenced  in  with  slight  boughs  and  a fringe  of  most  exquisite  green 
along  the  margin  of  a fine  line  of  blue  -water,  make  a scene  for  a painter.  Out  of 
the  corral  on  one  side  comes  an  immense  herd  of  cattle,  followed  by  two  mounted 
cowboys;  at  the  other  an  equally  immense  herd  of  goats,  black,  brown  and  white. 
A group  of  Indian  women  are  filling  great  jars  of  red  pottery  at  the  brookside,  and 
across  the  dry  watercourses  flocks  of  sheep  wander,  nibbling  the  tender  blades  of 
young  grass  and  followed  by  their  shepherds.  It  is  truly  a scene  of  another  ■world  than 
ours.  By-and-bv,  between  a gap  in  the  deep  red  mountains  "which  wall  up  the 
beautiful  narrow  valley,  one  catches  a glimpse  of  a wonderful  vista  full  of  deep  blue 
colors,  with  another  glint  of  clear  water,  and  far  off  the  more  mystical  heights  of 
some  new  range  which  distance  cl  other]  with  abundant  majesty.  Nothing  -we  ever 
saw  surpasses  the  effect  of  these  perfectly  level  rich  lands,  hemmed  in  by  the  majes- 
tic beauty  of  the  hills.  The  novelty  never  wears  away.  But  the  lofty  mountains 
are  not  all  of  this  country — there  are  fertile  valleys  and  broad  grazing  plains,  where 
there  are  thousands  of  cattle,  sheep  and  liorses. 

Chihuahua  (pronounced  Clie-wow-wci)  is  the  first  place  of  importance.  The  mean- 
ing of  the  name  is  “ the  place  where  things  are  made”  ; in  olden  times  the  city  was 
called  Taraumara,  and  in  later  years  San  Felipe  el  Real.  An  interesting  city,  worthy 
of  a day’s  stop,  it  lies  to  the  right  of  the  track,  and  while  engines  are  being  changed 
there  is  often  time  for  a drive  to  the  city,  a mile  distant,  to  see  the  mint,  the  churches, 


44 


MEXICO. 


the  old  aqueduct,  and  Hidalgo’s  monument,  erected  on  the  spot  of  his  execution.  It 
will  take  a day  at  least  to  do  the  town,  a longer  visit  may  be  pleasantly  made,  as 
there  is  a pretty  good  hotel.  , , ~ 

The  Church  of  San  Francisco,  erroneously  styled  the  Cathedral,  is  a fine  building 
with  an  imposing  interior  and  two  high  towers.  It  was  built  more  than  a century 


Fountain  at  Chihuahua. 


ago  at  a cost  of  more  than  three-quarters  of  a million  dollars,  raised  by  a tax  of  two 
reals  on  each  pound  of  silver  taken  from  the  Santa  Eulalia  mine.  In  one  of  the 
towers  a broken  bell  is  shown,  broken  by  a shot  from  a French  cannon  during  the 
bombardment  of  the  city.  Horse-cars  run  from  the  station  to  the  plaza — fare,  a 
medio , 6^  cents  ; or  one  may  go  quicker  in  a ’bus  or  hack,  for  two  reals. 

Chihuahua  is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  the  same  name,  and  has  a population  of 
nearly  20,000  ; was  founded  more  than  300  years  ago  ; so  its  growth  is  not  of  the 
mushroom  variety. 

After  leaving  the  station,  look  from  the  windows  on  the  left  side  to  see  the  smelt- 
ers of  the  Santa  Eulalia  mines  ; and  a little  farther  on  is  the  Cerro  del  Coronet,  so 
called  from  the  executiqn  of  a revolutionist  colonel  at  this  point.  The  road  runs 
through  a lake  region  skirting  the  western  border  of  the  Bolson  Mapimi,  and  comes 
to  the  valley  of  Conchos  and  San  Pedro,  where  there  are  some  fine  lands,  and  the 
journey  grows  more  interesting. 

Near  Santa  Rosalia  are  some  mineral  and  hot  springs,  with  a local  reputation  for 
their  curative  qualities.  Jiminez  is  the  shipping  station  for  the  Parral  mining  dis- 
trict, fifty  miles  west  of  the  road.  An  eating-house  is  located  here,  and  a good  meal 
is  to  be  obtained. 


CHIHUAHUA  TO  ZACATECAS. 


45 


Lerdo  is  a city  of  10,000,  located  in  the  midst  of  a fine  cotton  region  where  the 
soil  and  climate  are  so  favorable  to  the  growth  that  the  plants  need  renewal  only 
every  third  or  fourth  year.  The  city  lies  on  the  right  side  of  the  track.  Three  miles 
further  is  the  junction  of  the  Mexican  International  Railway  at  Torreon. 

Durango,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  that  name,  is  150  miles  west ; reached  by 
diligence  only,  but  with  a railroad  in  prospect.  Durango  is  a city  peculiar  to  itself 
even  in  Mexico,  and  worthy  of  a visit. 

Fresnillo  is  another  important  mining  town,  once  a great  city,  now  containing 
about  20,000  people.  The  now  overflowed  and  abandoned  mines  of  Proano  are  near 
the  road,  and  may  some  day,  in  the  near  future,  be  operated  again. 

The  wealth  of  this  country,  present  and  past,  is  fabulous  ; hardly  a town  but  was, 
oris,  a great  mining  town,  and  it  is  silver,  silver  everywhere.  If  the  mines  have  been 
abandoned,  they  are  to  be  wTorked  again  or  new  ones  opened  in  the  same  district. 

Every  mile  of  the  journey  increases  in  interest  now — one  interesting  place  is  left 
behind  only  to  look  forward  to  another,  and  the  intervening  country  presents  new 
scenes  and  views  continually.  The  train  is  making  tortuous  windings  to  get  over  a 


A Street  in  Chihuahua. 

high  hill,  whose  top  is  more  than  8,000  feet  above  the  sea,  which  stands  in  the  way. 
The  tall  tower-like  chimneys  of  a smelter,  high  up  above  the  track,  are  seen  first  on 
one  side  and  then  on  the  other,  as  the  road  bends  in  one  horseshoe  curve  after 
another.  This  marks  the  approach  to  Zacatecas,  one  of  the  greatest  cities  in  all 
Mexico.  The  train  comes  to  a stop  ; there  is  no  sign  of  a city  even  at  the  station  ; 


46 


MEXICO. 


but  when  it  leaves,  take  a seat  on  the  left  side  for  the  grandest  view  of  the  jour- 
ney. The  moment  the  station  is  passed  there  is  a full  view  of  a city  of  75,000 
people,  looking  for  all  the  world  like  one  of  ancient  Palestine,  lying,  with  its 
low  flat -topped  houses  and  domed  churches,  a hundred  feet  below,  and  spreading  up 

and  down  the  gulch  and  hillside, 
reaching,  with  straggling  suburbs, 
to  Guadaloupe,  six  miles  away. 
The  track  winds  around  on  the 
side  of  the  mountain,  passing  di- 
rectly over  some  mines  and  smelt- 
ers, keeping  the  city  in  view  for 
some  minutes.  The  view  from  the 
rear  platform  is  magnificent,  but  a 


An  Old  Church  at  Chihuahua. 


seat  on  the  left  side  is  a good  one.  Up  and  down  the  road,  between  the  two  towns, 
are  curiously  costumed  people  ; droves  of  donkeys  laden  with  silver,  carts  and  cars, 
goats  and  cattle  on  the  hillside,  and  a hundred  things  to  see  not  seen  any  where  else 
in  the  world.  Zacatecas  is  not  out  of  sight  till  Gnadaloupe  comes  to  view  on  the 
same  side,  and  a long  street  connects  the  two,  on  which  there  is  a horse-car  line. 
1 he  cars  are  pulled  from  Guadaloupe  to  Zacatecas,  but  the  return  trip  is  made  without 
their  aid.  As  the  train  moves  along  a look  ahead  w ill  show  the  town  of  Guadaloupe, 
with  its  splendid  church  ; looking  back,  the  city  of  Zacatecas  lies  under  the  shadow 
of  the  Cerro  de  la  Bufa — an  immense  buffalo,  cut  in  stone  by  sculptor  Nature,  lying 


ZACATECAS  TO  SAN  LUIS  POTOSI. 


47 


Guadalajara. 

>r  their  passengers.  There  are  some  fine  baths  near  the  station,  w hiph  may “be ^ en 
hile  the  train  waits.  But  the  tourist  must  make  a stop  at  Aguas  Calientes  and  at 
acatecas.  Other  pages  of  this  book  tell  of  the  attractions  there. 


on  the  mountain’s  crest,  keeps  guard  over  the  City  of  Silver.  Far  beyond  Guada- 
loupe  is  a lake — Lake  Pevernaldillo — with  some  pottery  kilns  on  the  shores. 

The  country  now  is  more  agricultural  than  mining,  and  there  are  some  fertile  dis- 
tricts in  all  the  valleys  down  to  Aguas  Calientes,  which  being  interpreted,  means 
“hot  waters.  ” The  scene  here  is  totally  unlike  any  other  in  all  Mexico.  The  town  is 
on  a level  plane,  6,179  feet  above  sea  level,  and  is  shaded  with  luxuriant  trees  along 
the  roads  and  streams.  The  city  is  on  the  right.  Another  eating-house  is  located 
here,  and  a good  one  ; but  there  is  so  much  to  interest  that  there  is  hardly  time  to  eat. 
Walk  out  to  the  end  of  the  station  platform.  There  is  a picture  you  never  saw  be- 
fore. A swiftly  running  stream 
of  hot  water  crosses  the  track. 
Look  up  the  shaded  road. 
Along  that  stream  is  one  vast 
laundry,  where  a hundred 
washerwomen  are  on  their 
knees  on  the  ground, 
and  every  bush  and 
tree  is  covered 
with  the  many 
colored  gar- 
ments hung 
out  to  dry. 
On  the 
other 
side  is 
the  city. 
Horse- 


cars  are 
waiting 


48 


MEXICO. 


From  Aguas  Calientes  a division  of  the  Mexican  Central  Railroad  extends  to  San 
Luis  Potosi  and  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  at  Tampico.  The  City  of  San  Luis  is  one  full 
of  attractions  and  of  great  wealth,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a high  and  fertile  agri- 
cultural region — in  the  midst  of  a plain  that  is  one  vast  garden  of  tropical  fruits  and 
vegetables,  and  it  is  not  a matter  of  special  wonder  that  there  is  good  living  at  San 
Luis  Potosi,  and  as  a result  of  good  markets  there  are  good  hotels. 

San  Luis  Potosi  is  the  capital  of  the  state  of  that  name,  a state  rich  in  mineral 
resources,  and  as  far  back  as  history  goes  there  is  mention  of  the  silver  mines  that 
are  there,  and  that  of  San  Pedro  is  said  to  have  produced  the  largest  piece  of  gold 
ever  found  in  Mexico,  which  was  sent  to  the  King  of  Spain,  who  presented  the  great 
clock  in  the  fa§ade  of  the  church. 

San  Luis  is  a fine  city,  with  a fine  plaza,  and  alameda.  The  streets  are  regularly 
laid  out  and  run  at  right  angles  and  are  kept  scrupulously  clean,  and  a city  ordinance 
requires  that  house-owners  shall  paint  and  renovate  their  houses  at  certain  intervals. 
The  climate  is  delightful,  and  now  that  San  Luis  has  become  such  a railroad  centre, 
it  is  regarded  as  a rival  of  the  City  of  Mexico  itself.  Always  a great  commercial  and 
manufacturing  j)oint,  the  completion  of  the  Central’s  line  to  tide  water  at  Tampico 
will  greatly  enhance  the  city's  importance,  and  it  will  become  a distributing  point 
for  a large  section,  and  the  jiroducts  of  Central  Mexico  will  find  a shorter  route  to 
market  by  way  of  Tampico. 

The  people  of  San  Luis  are  a pleasure-loving,  hospitable  people.  The  military 
band  plays  in  the  alameda  three  times  a week,  and  balls  and  fetes  to  which  Americans 
are  invited  are  of  frequent  occurrence.  The  road  to  Tampico  will  be*  finished  for  the 
season  of  1890-91. 

Back  on  the  main  line  again  and  still  running  through  a fine  country,  the  train 
comes  to  the  next  important  city  of  Lagos,  where  there  is  a population  of  40,000 
people,  and  large  manufacturing  interests.  The  city  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  track, 
reached  by  horse-cars  or  m hacks.  The  city  is  a pretty  one,  and  is  worthy  of  a day’s 
visit,  as  also  is  Leon,  a place  with  100,000  inhabitants,  and  one  of  the  greatest  manu- 
facturing towns  in  the  republic. 

Leon  lies  in  the  midst  of  a vast  plain  where  there  are  fertile  farms  and  rich  graz- 
ing lands  hedged  by  gigantic  cactus — the  tree  or  organ  cactus,  so  called  on  account 
of  its  resemblance  to  the  pipes  of  an  organ,  and  which  is  a feature  in  every  picture 
of  Mexico.  The  streets  of  Leon  are  narrow,  running  at  right  angles,  and  in  every 
block  and  square  are  workshops  of  the  thousands  and  thousands  of  makers  of  leath- 
ern goods — shoes,  saddles  and  everything  in  that  line.  “There  is  nothing  like 
leather,”  at  Leon.  There  is  a pretty  plaza,  some  fine  buildings  and  interesting  mar- 
kets. Lagos  is  on  the  right  and  Leon  on  the  left  of  the  track. 

Silao  has  an  excellent  restaurant  in  the  station  ; no  better  meal  is  served  at  any 
railroad  station  in  Mexico,  or  out  of  it.  Here  is  the  junction  for  Guanajuato, 
where  there  are  mines  that  have  produced  more  silver  than  all  the  others  in  the  com- 
bined world  ; and  there  are  100,000  people  there  now,  all  engaged  in  some  way  about 
the  mines.  A stop  must  be  made  at  Silao,  and  a visit  to  Guanajuato,  only  six  miles 
distant  by  rail  to  the  eastward  from  the  main  line.  Nineteen  miles  further  to 
Irapuato,  where  connection  is  made  for  Guadalajara,  famed  for  its  pottery,  and  one 
of  the  oldest,  quaintest  and  most  interesting  cities  in  the  rejmblic,  or  in  the  world. 
An  excursion  to  Guadalajara  is  absolutely  necessary  to  make  a complete  tour  of 
Mexico.  About  this  time,  as  the  farmer’s  almanac  says,  lay  in  your  winter  strawber- 
ries. 

Salamanca  is  the  next  place  of  interest  and  importance,  and  then  Celaya,  where 
this  line  crosses  the  Mexican  National  Railroad.  The  country  is  still,  for  the  most 
part,  a fertile  agricultural  region,  and  enjoys  a most  delightful  climate.  Although 


Queretaro,  and  the  Place  of  Execution  of  Maximilian,  Miramon'and  Mejia. 


50  MEXICO . 

under  a tropic  sun,  the  altitude  is  such — about  5,000  feet — that  spring  weather  is  the 
rule,  and  strawberries  are  on  sale  all  the  year  round,  brought  to  the  cars  in  boxes 
where  the  bottom  is  as  high  as  in  those  of  New  York  ; but  the  price  is  lower  and  the 
berries  finer  than  in  most  of  our  markets.  Another  product  of  the  country  is 
brought  to  the  cars— pulque.  Sometimes  it  is  fresh  and  good,  but  it  is  advised  not  to 
render  a verdict  on  the  national  beverage  till  it  is  drank  on  the  plains  of  Apam. 

Queretaro,  capital  of  Queretaro,  is  the  city  where  Maximilian  made  his  last  fight. 
Here  he  surrendered,  here  he  was  tried  and  executed,  with  his  Generals  Miramon 
and  Mejia.  From  the  windows  on  the  left  may  be  seen  three  little  white  stone  shafts 
on  the  hillside  just  north  of  the  city  ; these  mark  the  spot  where  the  unfortunate  men 
were  shot.  Queretaro  is  the  headquarters  for  opals.  They  are  found  in  great  quanti- 
ties round  about.  The  common  ones  are  offered  for  sale  by  the  natives  at  the  cars.  It 
is  not  advised  to  buy  extensively,  but  it  is  advised  to  pay  the  exact  charge,  as  the 
venders  have  the  same  habit  as  the  American  newsboy  in  being  tardy  in  bringing 
back  the  change  ; often  he  does  not  return  till  the  train  is  well  on  to  Mexico. 
It  is  better  to  stop  at  Queretaro  anyhow  ; there  is  much  to  interest  and  there  are 
good  hotels.  After  leaving  the  station  the  train  passes  through  the  Hercules  factory 
village,  where  there  is  a beautiful  grove  of  tropical  trees  in  full  leaf,  flower  and  fruit, 
with  oranges,  lemons  and  bananas  ; and  then  comes  to  one  of  the  sights  of  the  ride — 
the  great  stone  aqueduct  which  supplies  water  to  the  mills  and  the  city.  The  massive 
stone  arches  are  wonderful  in  their  construction,  and  of  great  height.  The  highest  is 
94  feet  above  the  ground.  The  train  passes  directly  under  the  aqueduct.  It  may  be 
seen  from  either  side  of  the  cars  ; the  first  view  is  on  the  left. 

You  have  been  looking  for  palm  trees,  eh  ? See  the  first  one  at  Queretaro. 

San  Juan  del  Rio,  at  an  elevation  of  6,245  feet,  is  the  last  city  on  the  line.  It  has  a 
population  of  20,000  people.  The  scenery  grows  grandly  beautiful.  There  are  grand 
mountains,  with  lovely  valleys  in  between,  dotted  here  and  there  with  haciendas  and 
villages.  Now  comes  to  the  plain  of  Cazadero.  Crossing  it,  the  road  climbs  the 
mountains  which  shut  in  the  nation’s  capital,  reaching  the  top  of  the  grade  at 
Marquez  and  the  highest  elevation  on  the  line,  8, 132  feet  above  the  sea  ; then  starts 
down  hill  to  the  Tula  Yalley,  where  the  scenery  is  more  tropical  and  the  towns  and 
villages  are  more  of  the  Toltec  order. 

No  matter  how  early  in  the  morning,  or  at  night,  if  there  be  a moon,  the  tourist 
must  be  on  the  qui  vive  for  a view  of  the  Tajo  de  Nochistongo — the  great  drainage  cut, 
commenced  in  1607  with  a purpose  to  drain  the  lakes  on  the  plains  of  Mexico  and  pre- 
vent the  inundation  of  the  city.  It  W'as  abandoned  a few  years  later,  but  has  been 
talked  of  ever  since ; and  now  a tunnel  is  projected  at  a cost  of  $8,000,000.  The  cars 
pass  along  the  top  of  the  cut  on  the  left  bank,  consequently  the  view  is  from  the 
windows  on  the  right  side.  As  soon  as  the  cut  is  passed  let  every  window  on  the 
left  side  be  occupied.  At  Huehuetoca  the  first  view  of  the  snow  mountains  is  to  be 
had  ; the  volcanoes  of  Ixtaccihuatl  and  Popocatapetl.  and  the  plain  of  Mexico  ; and  in 
an  hour  a journey  full  of  pleasure  and  crowded  with  novelty  ends  at  Buena  Yista 
station  of  the  Mexican  Central  Railway, 


NORTH  OVER  THE  MEXICAN  CENTRAL. 


fF  jour  arrival  over  the  Mexican  Central  has  been  at  night,  and  you  would  see 
those  parts  of  the  road  in  daylight  which  were  passed  at  night  on  the  trip 
southward,  a trip  on  the  north-bound  day  train  leaving  the  Capital  will  amply 
repay  in  scenic  interest  and  varied  views  of  Mexican  life,  curious  cities  and 

towns. 

The  first  hour  of  travel  northward  shows  the  plain  and  City  of  Mexico,  and  the 
surrounding  hills,  the  snow-capped  volcanoes  of  Popocatapetl  and  Ixtaccihuatl 
rising  high  up  against  the  sky — seen  last  from  Huehuetoca  at  the  entrance  of  the 
Tajo  de  Nochistongo,  the  great  canal  cut  with  a purpose  to  drain  the  waters  of  the 
lakes  around  it  and  save  the  City  of  Mexico  from  inundation  ; but  now,  280  years 
after  the  work  was  commenced,  it  is  unfinished  and  abandoned.  No  better  view  of 
the  great  work  can  be  obtained  than  from  the  trains  of  the  Mexican  Central  Railway, 
from  the  windows  on  the  left  side  of  a north-bound  train. 

Tula,  fifty  miles  from  the  city,  is  the  object  of  a most  pleasant  day  excursion. 
Leaving  on  the  morning  train  and  returning  in  the  evening  allows  seven  or  eight 
hours  at  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  Mexico,  once  a great  city,  but  now  containing 
only  about  2,000  people.  According  to  the  native  historian  Clavigero,  Tula  was  a city 
of  the  Toltecs  more  than  a thousand  years  ago,  who  were  followed  by  the  Chicliimecs 
four  hundred  years  later,  and  still  later  byj;he  Mexicans,  whose  chief  city  was  Tula 
until  about  the  year  1825,  when  the  City  of  Mexico  became  the  capital.  Undoubt- 
edly Tula  has  the  age  on  many  other  towns  of  Mexico,  as  may  be  proven  by  the  rel- 
ics of  bygone  centuries  that  are  to  be  seen  in  and  around  the  city.  The  ruins  of  the 
old  Toltec  town  are  especial  objects  of  interest,  the  visit  to  which  will  occupy  some 
hours.  In  the  plaza  of  Tula  and  in  the  churches  are  some  broken  columns  and  statues 
of  great  size,  and  some  graven  stones  wrhose  ages  antedate  even  the  Toltecs.  The 
church  of  San  Jose  was  dedicated  over  325  years  ago,  and  is  a massive  fort-like 
structure,  so  built,  with  thick  walls,  to  afford  protection  against  attack  from  the 
Indians  in  the  early  days. 

The  ride  down  from  Tula  is  across  the  plain  of  Cazadero,  and  the  next  point  of 
interest  is  Queretaro.  Approaching  from  the  south  the  train  passes  under  one  of  the 
arches  of  the  great  aqueduct  which  furnishes  the  city’s  wrater  supply,  and  through  a 
suburb  of  the  city,  with  its  orange  trees,  limes  and  bananas  and  tropical  flowers,  close 
to  the  great  Hercules  cotton  mills.  Horse-cars  from  the  station  pass  by  the  alameda, 
a very  pretty  park  planted  with  palms  and  other  tropical  trees . 

The  opal  is  considered  an  unlucky  stone,  in  which  case  good  luck  could  not  abide 
at  Queretaro,  on  account  of  the  abundance  of  opals  found  in  the  region  round  about 
— < ‘-opals  <?f  all  sizes,  shapes  and  colors,  good,  bad  and  indifferent,  but  all  worth  just 
as  much  as  the  vender  can  get  or  the  purchaser  will  stand— they  are  on  saie  every- 
where, in  the  stores,  at  the  hotel,  on  the  street  and  the  railway  station.  Tou  may 
talk  about  the  weather,  politics  or  the  prosperity  of  the  country,  but  the  talk  will 
wind  up  on  opals.  A representative  best  citizen  may  welcome  you  to  the  city 
and  discourse  of  its  beauty,  health  and  climate  ; but  in  an  unguarded  moment  may 
spring  an  opal  on  you.  The  unsuspecting  traveler  alights  from  the  train  unconscious 
of  opals,  but  ere  he  reaches  the  alameda  his  suspicions  are  aroused,  and  every  man, 
woman  and  child  is  viewed  with  alarm  lest  opals  be  thrust  upon  one  whether  or  no. 
But  there  is  much  else  at  Queretaro  besides  opals,  and  much  that  was,  that  is  not  now. 


52 


MEXICO 


The  unfortunate  Emperor  Maximilian  made  his  last  stand  at  Queretaro,  was 
captuied  tided  and  executed.  In  a room  of  the  legislative  building  are  kept  the 
coffin  in  which  Maximilian  was  brought  from  the  field,  the  wooden  stools  on  which 
Miramon  and  Mejia  sat  during 
the  trial.  The  emperor,  being  . 
ill,  did  not  attend,  but  was  \j. 
confined  in  a cell  in  the  con- 
vent of  the  Capuchins.  The 
table  on  which  the  death 
warrant  was  signed  is 
preserved.  J ust  w est 
of  the  city,  in  a 
stony  field,  was 
the  place  of  ex- 
ecution, now 
marked  by 
three  little 


Guadalajara. 


white  shafts  inclosed  by  an  iron  railing,  which  can  be  seen  from  the  cars,  looking 
from  the  right-hand  windows  after  leaving  the  station  going  north. 

Celava,  in  the  beautiful  valley  of  Laja,  is  the  next  point  of  interest  and  is  the 
crossing  of  the  Mexican  National  Railroad.  The  city  is  to  be  seen  on  the  west  side  of 
the  track,  the  high  church  towers  standing  up  against  the  background  made  by  blue 
hills.  The  chronicler  says  that  Celaya  was  founded  by  sixteen  married  men  and  their 
wives  and  seventeen  young  bachelors.  Just  why  their  numbers  or  conditions  attended 
the  founding,  does  not  appear.  Celaya  is  noted  for  its  dulces  as  Queretaro  is  for 


QUERETARO  AND  CEL  A FA. 


53 


opals,  and  are  as  assiduously  offered  by  the  native  manufacturer  and  vender  to  the 
make***  tOUriSt‘  ■Dalces^ lf  uofc  explained  before,  are  sweetmeats,  confections  of  native 


The  sixteen  married  men  and  seventeen  bachelors  commenced  to  build  churches 
early,  and  when  in  after  years  they  were  completed  they  were  pronounced  the  finest 
in  the  land,  and  they  have,  indeed,  great  claims  that  way,  both  as  to  architecture 
intenor  decoration  and  paintings.  Especially  is  this  true  of  the  churches  of  Our 
Lady  of  Carmen  and  San  Francisco,  which  alone  are  worthy  of  a stop  over  at  Celava 
At  any  station  in  this  lati-  J ' 

tude  the  traveler  may  expect 
to  have  strawberries  thrust  i * 
at  his  window,  whether  he 
passes  by  in  December  or 
May.  The  finest  straw- 
berries are  offered  at 
Irapuato,  and,  as 
stated,  the  Mexi- 
can exhibits  an 
evidence  of 
the  highest 
civilization 
in  locat- 
ing the 


Guadalajara. 


bottom  of  the  strawberry  boxes  so  near  the  top.  Passing  Salamanca,  a place  noted 
for  its  manufactures  and  white  pottery  clay  or  kaolin,  the  train  comes  to  Irapuato,  a 
place  of  little  importance  in  itself,  but  the  point  of  junction  of  a branch  line  of  the 


54 


MEXICO . 


Mexican  Central  for  Guadalajara,  a noted  city  of  the  republic,  hitherto  unvisited  on 
account  of  its  inaccessibility  ; but  since  the  completion  of  the  extension  in  May, 
1888,  the  old  town  has  had  daily  communication  with  the  outside  world,  and  the 
tourist  may  now  see  for  himself  the  glories  of  an  ancient  city  that  have  come  to  him 
before  second  hand. 

Irapuato  ! Change  cars  for  Guadalajara  ! is  the  cry  of  the  trainman  now,  only  he 
don’t  say  it  exactly  that  way,  that's  what  he  means,  and  perhaps  the  cry  of  the  Mex- 
ican trainman  may  seem  to  the  American  traveler  as  intelligible  as  those  he  hears  o<n 
the  home  roads.  The  road  runs  through  a rich  agricultural  country,  where  large 
crops  of  wheat  and  corn  are  raised.  The  line  is  rich  in  scenic  beauty,  as  all  roads 
in  Mexico  are,  and  the  journey  may  be  one  of  pleasure,  no  matter  whatever  other 
object  it  may  have.  The  first  station  of  importance  is  Penjamo,  49  kilometres  from 
Irapuato,  near  which  is  the  town  of  the  same  name,  with  a population  of  nearly 
8,000,  and  a very  investing  old  place,  with  narrow,  crooked  streets  and  quaint 
houses.  The  town  is  about  three  miles  from  the  station. 

About  two  miles  from  the  station  La  Piedad  is  the  city  of  Piedad  Cabadas,  known 
in  ancient  and  modern  history  by  several  other  names,  but  now  answering  to  the  one 
written  here.  Piedad  has  a population  of  over  10,000  people.  About  150  kilometres 
from  Irapuato  the  road  comes  to  the  valley  of  the  Lerma,  sometimes  called  the  Rio 
Grande,  and  is  the  Mississippi  of  Mexico,  the  longest  river  in  the  republic.  The 
river  empties  into  Lake  Chapala  at  the  eastern  end,  and  twenty  miles  further,  on  the 
northeastern  shore,  another  river  flows  out  of  the  lake,  called  by  some  the  same  river, 
Lerma  or  Rio  Grande.  Certainly  one  is  the  inlet  of  the  waters  and  the  same  one  the 
outlet,  the  one  river  seemingly  crossing  the  lake.  The  river  is  not  navigable.  On 
the  contrary  it  abounds  in  rapids  and  cascades — one,  quite  large  and  very  beautiful, 
is  only  16  miles  from  Guadalajara. 

The  road  comes  nearest  to  the  river  and  lake  at  La  Barca,  a city  of  10,000  inhab- 
itants, located  at  the  junction  of  the  Lerma  and  Lake  Chapala.  Prom  La  Barca  the 
steamer  Liberlad  makes  voyages  around  Lake  Chapala,  making  landings  on  both 
sides  and  returning  again  to  the  starting  point,  covering  a distance  both  ways  of 
about  70  miles.  The  voyage  is  one  of  many  delights,  the  scenery  is  exceptionally 
beautiful — high  mountains  and  fertile  plains,  and  valleys  with  fields  and  groves  of 
tropical  fruits  and  plants.  Sometimes,  when  an  east  wind  prevails,  the  high  wind 
and  waves  loosen  the  vegetation  growing  in  the  shallow  water  of  the  delta  where  the 
Lerma  comes  in,  and  scores  of  floating  islands  are  met  with  in  the  voyage.  A3  the 
lake  is  about  80  miles  long  and  16  wide,  sometimes  great  storms  prevail  and  the 
waves  run  high. 

The  steamer  Libertad  is  a new  boat,  built  since  the  completion  of  the  railway. 
Her  predecessor,  whose  machinery  was  brought  from  California  and  packed  piece 
by  piece  on  burros  from  San  Bias  on  the  Pacific  coast,  has  been  retired,  and  her  old 
boiler  lies  on  the  beach  a rusty  monument  to  American  pluck  and  energy.  It  is  not 
recorded  that  any  other  people  have  carried  steamboats  over  mountains  by  mule 
power. 

The  town  of  Chapala  on  the  north  shore  of  the  lake  is  picturesquely  located  under 
the  towering  cliffs  of  the  mountain.  The  place  has  long  been  a health  resort  on 
account  of  the  very  hot  springs  that  are  there,  which  have  a great  local  reputation. 
The  waters,  clear  as  crystal,  gush  from  the  rocks  in  the  side  of  the  mountain.  The 
tourist  may  procure  horses  at  Chapala  and  ride  across  the  mountains  to  the  railroad 
at  Antequiza,  or  return  by  boat  to  La  Barca.  ' 

Continuing  the  rail  journey  toward  Guadalajara  the  track  crosses  the  Lerma  again 
at  Ocotlan,  where  there  is  a glimpse  of  the  lake  from  the  windows  on  the  left  side. 

The  first  view  of  Guadalajara  may  be  had  from  the  right-hand  side  of  the  train, 


Going  to  Market. 


56 


MEXICO . 


looking  forward.  It  is  a city  of  nearly  100,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  capital  of  the 
State  of  Jalisco.  A very  beautiful  and  very  interesting  city,  where  some  days  may 
be  pleasantly  spent.  The  city  has  for  centuries  been  noted  for  its  fine  pottery, 
ornamental  and  glazed  in  the  most  beautiful  and  fantastic  designs,  and  is  the  chief 
industry  of  a large  clas3  at  the  present  day.  Manufacturing  in  almost  every  branch 
is  carried  on,  as  this  has  for  centuries  been  a great  commercial  centre  and  distribut- 
ing point  for  a large  territory.  There  are  four  lines  of  horse-railways  leading  to  the 
different  suburbs,  each  one  offering  something  of  interest  to  the  tourist. 

The  city  is  beautifully  laid  out ; the  streets  run  at  right  angles  and  for  many 
blocks  the  w'alk-ways  are  under  the  stone  portales.  There  are  14  portales,  20  plazas, 
14  bridges,  5 theatres,  25  baths,  23  restaurants  and  28  hotels  of  all  classes ; among 
the  latter  there  is  one  kept  by  a German,  which  has  a lovely  patio  filled  with 
beautiful  plants  and  flowers,  onto  which  all  the  rooms  open,  and  if  you  wish, 
meals  are  served  on  Jhe  gallery  in  front  of  your  door.  It  is  a German  garden  in 
the  heart  of  Mexico.  Tliere  are  no  finer  public  buildings  anywhere  in  Mexico  than 
in  Guadalajara.  Among  these  are  the  Cathedral,  the  Governor’s  palace  and  the 
Degollado  theatre,  all  magnificent  specimens  of  the  Mexican  style  of  architecture, 
and  of  such  proportions  that  such  piles  are  totally  unexpected  in  this  far-away  region 
so  long  without  communication  with  the  outside  world. 

Through  the  eastern  part  of  the  city  runs  the  San  Juan  de  Dios,  and  along  that 
stream  is  the  Paseo  from  the  alameda  to  the  southern  boundary  of  the  city.  The 
Alameda,  Plaza  de  Armas , Jar  din  Botanic  o,  Parque  Alcade  and  Calzada  de  San  Pedro 
are  all  pretty  parks  or  gardens  where  there  are  music  and  flowers — places  of  great 
resort  in  the  evening,  Sundays  and  feast  days. 

Speaking  of  gardens,  the  Hospital  of  Guadalajara  contains  twenty -three  patios, 
and  each  has  its  flowers,  plants  and  fountains. 

What  with  the  markets,  streets,  people,  scenery,  this  description  might  go  on  to 
fill  a book  ; but  the  space  here  is  limited,  and  we  must  go  back  to  the  main  line  of 
the  Mexican  Central  and  see  what  there  is  at  Silao  and  Guanajuato.  To  do  this,  re- 
turn must  be  made  to  Irapuato. 

The  tall,  slender  spire  of  the  church  of  Santiago  is  seen  from  the  windows  on  the 
right  of  a train  going  north,  and  a few  moments  later  the  train  stops  at  the  station 
for  Silao,  where  there  is  a restaurant  kept  by  an  American,  a railway  eating-house 
that  would  rank  above  the  average  even  in  the  United  States.  A bountiful  supply  of 
good  food  is  served  at  all  times.  The  city  of  Silao,  distant  about  a mile  from  the 
station,  has  a population  of  16,000  people.  There  is  sufficient  interest  for  a visit ; 
there  are  good  drives  around  the  city,  some  fine  mineral  springs,  and  the  usual 
Mexican  life  and  novelty.  From  Silao  there  is  a branch  road  to  Guanajuato,  or 
rather  to  Marfil,  and  thence  by  horse-cars  to  a great  silver  city. 

The  road  from  Silao  winds  around  among  the  hills,  where  there  are  some  pretty 
fields,  passing  adobe  villages,  and  coming  to  Marfil,  where  there  is  a change  to  horse- 
cars  which  go  at  a gallop  up  the  barranca,  passing  some  of  the  greatest  silver  mines 
of  the  world  and  the  haciendas  where  the  reduction  works  are.  The  street,  or  road, 
along  which  the  cars  pass,  is  crowded  with  people  going  to  and  fro,  and  with  burros 
loaded  with  silver  ore.  The  peculiar  houses  on  either  side  make  the  trip  most  pic- 
turesque. The  hills  rise  up  high  and  steep  on  both  sides,  and  wherever  there  is  a 
place  big  enough,  or  niche  can  be  cut  in  the  rocks,  a house  is  built  there,  the  getting 
up  or  down  being  a secondary  consideration  ; and  how  the  feat  is  accomplished  by 
any  animal  short  of  a goat,  or  by  any  other  means  than  a hook  and  ladder  outfit,  I am 
unabie  to  determine.  The  homes  of  these  cliff-dwellers  dot  the  hills  on  both  sides 
of  the  barranca  and  around  the  city. 

After  three  miles  of  this  Moorish  street,  the  cars  stop  at  the  prettiest  little  plaza, 


GUADALAJARA  AND  GUANAJUATO. 


67 


adorned  with  flowers  and  tropical  plants.  Here  are  the  hotels  and  the  centre  of  the 
city.  The  cars  go  on  up  the  narrow,  crooked  street,  and  the  ride  is  full  of  interest 
Ride  up  and  walk  down,  and  what  you  will 
see  will  make  some  novel  additions  to  your 
note  book.  The  end  of  the  track  is  opposite 
a lovely  little  park  at  the  head  of  the  ravine. 

This  is  the  alameda,  and  above  it  is  the  reser- 
voir of  the  city’s  water  supply.  Water  is  also 
stored  in  the  ravine  by  strong  dams  of  stone. 

Here  are  some  of  the  prettiest  residences  in 
Mexico,  perched  on  the  mountain-side  as  they 
are,  with  a towering  cliff  at  the  back  door  and 
miniature  lakes  at  the  front,  with  gallery  and 
casement  hung  with  brightest  flowers.  There  is 
no  such  street  of  such  houses  even  in  Mexico. 

Looking  across  a reservoir  of  clear  water  was 
a little  lovv  house  of  Pompeiian  colors  w ith  case- 
mated  windows  covered  with  flowrering  vines. 

The  gable  toward  the  water  had  an  old  wheel 
window,  around  which  the  vines  had  climbed. 

On  a wall  stood  a peacock  with  feathers  out- 
spread ’gainst  a light  background,  whilst  the 
other  birds  sat  quietly  as  if  posing  for  a picture. 

Some  ducks  swam  lazily  in  the  water  of  the  fore- 
ground. A bridge  across  the  water  was  shaded 
by  trees  of  japonica,  and  another  tree  had  some 
bright  yellow  flowers  through  all  its  branches — 
and  this  picture  was  doubled  by  a reflection  in  the  water. 

An  enthusiastic  lady  writes  thus  of  Guanajuato  : 

“Quaintest  spot  and  most  delightful  under  the  sun  ! 

The  little  city  of  Guanajuato — may  its  name  be  written 
in  letters  of  gold — has  succeeded  in  charming  away  the 
few  remaining  senses  which  this  enchanting  Mexico  has 
left  us.  A city  among  the  mountains,  a fortified  place 
set  upon  the  side  of  heights  so  steep  that  the  houses 
seem  to  be  fastened  to  the  rock  rather  thau  resting  upon 
it,  and  a misstep  on  the  dizzy  uppermost  level  of  the 
narrow,  steep  streets  w'ould  precipitate  the  unlucky  one 
into,  the  midst  of  some  plaza  three  or  four  hundred  feet 
below.  A lovely,  bewildering  spot,  full  of 
lanes  and  archways  and  winding,  twisted 

market-places,  with  a crowd  of  pictur-  Q ^ATE^ciRRjER.. 
esque  people  selling  every  oddity  under  j 51,./ 

'the  sun  and  a screen  of  matting;  with  a ||| 

crossing  and  interlacing  of  narrow  paved  ways  which  give  |j|  ( 
at  every  ten  steps  the  effect  of  a kaleidoscope  with  a vista  ‘ i 
of  infinite  beauty  and  novelty  at  each  turning. 

“ The  upper  balconies  of  the  many  really  beautiful 
houses  were  gay  with  bright  awnings  and  marvelous 
flowers  ; the  old  Church  of  the  Jesuits  was  magnificent  in  fine  arches  of  soft,  pink 
stone  and  wonderful  carvings,  fine  as  strips  of  lace  work  ; the  overhanging  hills 
toppled  against  the  deep  blue  sky  wherever  one  turned,  and  through  a hundred 


58 


MEXICO . 


different  arclies  some  vision  of  softly  frescoed,  slender  pillared  inner  courts,  bright 
with  blossoms  and  fresh  with  greenery,  flashed  out,  no  matter  how  swiftly  one 
passed. 

“ While  we  were  in  the  plaza  a beautiful  flight  of  birds,  a thousand  swift-winged 
atoms  with  a dash  of  warm  red  on  the  dark  breasts,  wheeled  and  dipped  and  rose 
through  the  clear  air  with  a rhythm  of  motion  that  set  the  scene  to  music,  and  so  I 
desire  to  remember  it.  And  into  this  ravishing  spot  we  were  whirled  without  any 
more  warning  than  the  corners  of  a few  sharp  mountain  spurs  could  give  us.  ” 

The  Alhondiga,  now  a prison,  but  once  the  Board  of  Trade  building,  was  cap- 
tured by  Hidalgo  during  the  war  for  independence.  Later  on,  his  head  was  brought 
here  after  his  execution  at  Chihuahua,  and  exposed  on  a spike  in  the  wall  which  (the 
spike)  is  still  shown.  Still  later  a bronze  statue  was  erected  to  his  memory  in  front 
of  the  building. 

There  are  many  other  fine  buildings  in  Guanajuato,  among  which  is  a magnificent 
theatre  larger  than  any  in  New  York,  built  of  a beautiful  green  stone  found  in  the 
neighborhood.  The  churches  are  very  fine — one,  that  of  Compania,  cost  nearly  a 
quarter  of  a million  of  dollars,  of  which  nearly  half  went  for  blasting  a space  in  the 
hillside  for  it  to  rest  on. 

The  Mint  is  especially  worthy  of  a visit.  The  manner  of  coining  is  the  same  as  in 
the  mints  of  our  country.  It  is  the  operatives  that  are  interesting.  An  old  and 
wrinkled  Indian,  whose  hair  is  silvered  as  the  metal  he  works  in,  has  handled  the 
ladle  for  forty  years.  He  opens  the  door  of  the  fiery  furnance  and  dips  his  ladle  in 
the  molten  metal,  not  a drop  too  much  or  an  ounce  too  little  to  fill  the  mould  ; and  his 
record  for  the  time  shows  not  a day  of  absence.  Two  younger  Indians  are  expert  at 
detecting  imperfect  coins  by  the  sense  of  touch.  They  sit  on  low  stools  with  a pile 
of  coins  on  each  side,  without  looking,  and  with  a single  grasp  gather  twenty  silver 
pieces — always  twenty,  never  a dollar  more  or  less.  Then  sliding  the  coins  from  one 
hand  to  the  other,  the  slightest  scratch  or  defect  is  detected,  and  the  imperfect  coin 
is  thrown  to  one  side  to  go  through  the  mill  again.  It  is  on  record  that  no  coin 
handled  by  these  two  Indians  has  ever  issued  from  the  mint  with  an  imperfection 
however  slight.  The  weighing  and  counting  is  done  with  the  same  degree  of  accu- 
racy, the  system  reaching  absolute  perfection.  Dolores,  near  Guanajuato,  was  the 
scene  of  the  commencement  of  the  revolution  for  the  independence  of  Mexico,  also 
the  birthplace  of  Hidalgo,  the  patriot  priest. 

Before  the  train  leaves  the  station  at  Marfil  buy  an  ice  from  the  Indian  venders  of 
helados,  a sort  of  ice-cream  put  up  in  tin  tubes  about  two  inches  in  diameter  and  three 
inches  long,  frozen  hard  and  very  nicely  flavored.  The  cry  “ E-low  ” is  a corruption 
of  the  word  helado,  meaning  frozen. 

Back  on  the  main  line  again,  a ride  over  a fertile  plain  brings  to  the  great  manu- 
facturing city  of  Leon,  where  there  are  100,000  people  engaged  in  manufactures 
mostly  in  leather  and  leather  goods.  There  is  enough  of  interest  at  Leon  for  a stop 
over  one  train  at  least,  and  at  Lagos  there  should  be  another  stop. 

The  country  northward  is  mixed,  fertile  and  otherwise,  with  a varied  scenery. 
At  or  near  Encarnacion,  see  on  the  left  side  the  town  of  that  name,  with 
its  churches  and  towers.  On  the  other  side  is  the  river  Encarnacion,  with  an 
irrigation  reservoir  near  the  track.  A high  and  very  fine  iron  bridge 
spans  the  river  just  north  of  the  station.  This  pleasant  excursion  must 
have  another  break  at  Aguas  Calientes,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  that  name, 
having  a population  of  35,000  people.  In  translating,  aguas  calientes  means 
hot  waters,  and  the  name  is  well  chosen.  Hot  springs  are  numerous,  and  a 
superabundance  of  hot  water  runs  through  the  town,  converting  the  streets  where 
they  flow  into  one  vast  laundry . Here  the  Indian  population  come  to  do  their  washing, 


Tajo  de  Nochistongo. 


GO  MEXICO . 

Babies  are  brought  along  tied  with  a string,  and  allowed  to  paddle  in  the  warm 
waters.  Evidences  of  the  uses  of  the  hot  water  are  seen  everywhere.  In  the  horse- 
cars  ladies  with  their  hair  down  the  back,  hung  out  to  dry  as  it  were,  are  returning 
from  the  bath,  and  men  with  towels  on  their  arms  walk  and  ride  to  the  baths.  The 


Hotel  at  Aguas  Calientes. 

ditch  which  crosses  the  track  at  the  station  extends  to  the  pools  and  baths  a half 
mile  away  on  the  east  side.  On  each  side  the  women  are  washing  their  clothes  or 
down  in  the  ditch  bathing  themselves  and  children.  I saw  one  old  man  waiting  for 
his  wife  to  finish  her  bath  ; he,  like  Mark  Twain  and  the  Sandwich  Island  surf  bath- 
ing girls,  sat  down  to  watch  the  clothes  till  the  wearer  came  out.  A little  further  on  I 
saw  an  indigent  American,  who  had  asked  me  for  a tlaco  in  the  market,  arranging  for 
a change  of  linen  by  playing  the  part  of  his  own  washerwoman.  At  the  head  of  the 
ditch  where  the  hot  waters  issue  from  the  ground  are  more  pools,  washerwomen  and 
bathers,  and  some  stone  bath  houses,  very  primitive  but  very  clean,  with  great  pools 
of  hot,  clear  w'ater,  where  you  can  bathe  in  the  open  air  in  January,  bathe  under  green 
trees  and  hear  the  birds  sing  as  if  it  was  summer.  The  water  is  deliciously  warm 
and  the  baths  most  healthful.  An  old  Indian  gives  you  clean  towels,  soap  (a  new 
cake),  indicates  your  pool  and  leaves  you  to  take  care  of  yourself. 

Aguas  Calientes  is  noted  for  its  pretty  plazas  and  parks,  of  which  there  are 
several,  one  in  the  centre  of  the  city.  Another,  a few  squares  west,  is  a most  lovely 


AGUAS  CALIENTES. 


61 


garden  with  a fountain  absolutely  surrounded  with  roses  and  a thousand  ever- 
blooming  flowers  known  only  to  the  tropics  ; and  still  another  park  further  out, 
reached  by  horse-cars,  as  beautiful  as  the  others,  to  which  also  there  is  a fine  drive  ; 
but  in  the  town  not  many  vehicles  to  hire  that  would  make  the  use  of  the  drive 

anyways  pleasant. 

The  plaza  at  night  is  one  of  dazzling  brilliancy.  A military  band  of  sixty  or 
seventy  pieces,  on  a magnificent  stand,  in  a perfect  bower  of  "tropical  plants  and 
lighted  by  hanging  lamps  of  great  beauty,  discourses  sweet  music  while  the  “upper 
ten  ” promenade  in  two  endless  processions,  in  adverse  directions,  around  the  walks 
under  the  trees  —Spanish  lace  and  the  reboso  mingling,  while  the  brigand-looking 
Mexican  sits  muffled  to  the  eyes  in  red  zerape,  as  if  a Bismarck  blizzard  was  blowing 
instead  of  balmy  breezes  amongst  fragrant  flowers. 

Dark-eyed  senoritas  watched  by  sober  senoras  smoking  cigarettes,  crowd  the  seats, 


Bridge  and  Reservoir  at  Ekcarnacion. 


stealing  glances  at  the  passing  parade.  Beauty  is  out  m fub L force . and  ^duenna 

is  there  for  its  protection.  The  procession  lasts  from  8 to  10  > 

the  “Danza”  (a  Mexican  band  always  plays  the  Danza  for 

noches  ” are  spoken,  the  last  stolen  glance  enjoyed,  and  perhaps  a hurried  word  if  the 

duenna  is  not  looking  that  way,  and  all  is  over  till  the  band  plays  again,  which 

does  two  or  three  times  in  a week. 


62 


MEXICO. 


The  market  of  Aguas  Calientes  is  interesting.  On  four  sides  are  heavy  columned 
portales  inclosing  an  open  space,  where  the  hucksters  sit  on  the  ground  surrounded 
by  their  wares,  vegetables  in  little  piles,  in  day  time  under  a plaited  mat  held  by 
three  poles  to  shelter  from  the  sun  ; at  night  little  fires  furnish  each  with  light  suffi- 
cient for  traffic.  In  the  pottery  market  will  be  found  many  novelties,  offered  for  sale 
in  the  same  style.  Opposite  one  of  the  markets  is  a church,  whose  lofty  door  is 
almost  hidden  by  luxuriant  palms,  bananas,  with  an  undergrowth  of  roses. 

There  are  good  hotels  at  Aguas  Calientes,  and  there  is  every  reason  why  a stay  in 
the  city  should  be  a pleasant  one. 

The  country  north  of  Aguas  Calientes  is  rich  in  farms,  towns  and  cities  ; some  fine 
haciendas  with  expensive  aqueducts  for  irrigating  purposes.  Some  curious  shaped 
mountains  stretching  to  the  east  just  after  leaving  the  station  are  in  view  for  many 
miles.  Passing  over  a table  land  of  fertile  fields,  far  over  to  the  east  can  be  seen  the 
waters  of  a lake.  In  Mexico  it  is  not  always  a lake  that  is  seen  in  the  distance,  seeming 
to  the  weary  horseman  to  be  of  cooling  waters,  but  a cruel  delusion,  a phantom  lake 
that  gets  farther  away  as  he  approaches.  Down  the  slope  to  the  right  of  the  track  is 
the  city  of  Guadaloupe,  the  fine  church  easily  distinguished  by  its  tower  and  domes. 
Now  the  track  winds  around  another  hill  and  Zacatecas  comes  in  view,  and  runs  over 
a very  bed  of  silver,  some  of  the  mines  being  directly  under  the  track,  and  others  on 
the  hill  above  it.  Look  across  the  barranca  to  the  road  and  horse-railway  track 
between  the  two  cities.  See  the  great  haciendas  and  reduction  works.  There  is  no 
such  scene  of  life  and  animation  anywhere  in  one  view.  One  sees  fewer  wheels  than 
donkeys.  Burros  are  cheaper  than  wheels  ; burros  never  get  tired  and  wheels  have  to 
be ; and  iron  for  tires  is  scarcer  than  silver  ; and  the  donkey  goes  without  shoes 
and  eats  little,  gets  up  early  and  stays  out  late.  Hence  the  patient  little  beast  is 
preferred  to  wheels. 

On  the  high  hill  on  the  other  side  are  the  cemeteries ; but  the  round,  white,  tomb- 
like stones  about  on  the  hills  do  not  mark  the  resting  place  of  departed  souls,  but 
the  boundaries  of  silver  claims.  The  peculiarly  shaped  hill  with  the  rocky  crest  is 
called  the  Bufa  or  Buffalo.  The  little  church  up  there  is  Los  Remedios,  to  which 
the  pilgrims  climb,  in  a manner  in  keeping  with  their  digressions  from  the  path  of 
rectitude.  If  one  has  been  very  naughty,  the  proper  caper  is  to  crawl.  This  manner 
of  doing  penance  is  a little  rough,  particularly  on  this  route,  but  it  is  indulged  in 
by  the  native  of  the  sensitive  conscience.  The  rock  where  the  church  is  located  is 
flat  on  top,  and  once,  during  a revolution,  a battle  was  fought  there,  and  a five-pound 
cannon  forced  a surrender  of  the  assaulting  party  in  a few  hours.  The  view  from 
La  Bufa  is  very  fine,  seven  cities  are  within  its  scope,  and  numerous  hills  and 
valleys. 

The  view  of  Zacatecas  from  the  cars,  looking  down  on  the  flat-top  houses,  reminds 
one  of  the  pictures  and  descriptions  of  the  biblical  cities,  and  is  one  not  easily  for- 
gotten. When  the  train  stops  at  the  station,  all  sight  of  the  city  is  lost  behind  an 
intervening  hill.  Horse-cars  from  the  station  need  no  propelling  power  for  the  first 
half  of  the  journey,  but  a double  team  is  required  to  get  up  through  the  streets  to 
the  hotels  and  plazas.  As  is  usual  in  Mexico,  there  are  great  crowds  at  the  stations 
at  train-time ; this  is  particularly  so  at  Zacatecas,  and  often  the  military  band  is 
there  to  play  for  the  passing  tourist. 

To  look  at  the  city  from  the  cars  it  would  not  seem  that  there  was  a place  for  a 
plaza  or  alameda  on  such  steep  hillsides  ; but  Zacatecas  has  both,  and  very  pretty 
ones,  with  beautiful  plants,  flowers,  and  fountains — and  in  the  midst  the  band  plays 
in  the  evening  and  the  people  come  out  in  their  picturesque  costumes  to  promenade 
and  listen.  In  the  business  centre  the  place  has  quite  an  American  look  on  account 
of  the  high  buildings — some  are  three  and  four  stories  high.  The  State  and 


ZACATECAS  TO  GUADALOUPE. 


G3 


municipal  palaces,  the  mint,  the  fine  old  churches  are  all  worthy  of  the  tourist’s  at- 
tention. The  hotel  Zacatecano  is  quite  an  imposing  structure. 

The  pilgrimage  to  Guadaloupe  is  one  of  the  things  to  do— and  it  can  he  done 
comfortably  and  quickly.  Horse-cars  start  from  the  plaza  and  run  down  the  six  miles 
by  gravity.  The  mules  which  pull  the  cars  from  Guadaloupe  to  Zacatecas  leave 
their  harness  on  the  cars  and  walk  leisurely  down  without  a load.  An  American  with 
me  suggested  that  this  was  a waste  of  valuable  mule  time,  and  thought  they  should 
carry  a load  of  freight.  He  was  from  Boston  (the  man  was,  not  the  mule),  and  disliked 
idleness  in  any  shape,  mule  or  man.  I said  nothing,  only  thought  if  the  mule  made 
no  kick  the  Boston  man  ought  not  to. 

At  Guadaloupe  the  cars  stop  right  in  front  of  the  market,  and  the  walk  through 
it  is  interesting,  besides  being  in  the  route  to  the  church.  Leave  the  market  at  the 
lower  left-hand  corner,  the  street  there  leads  directly  to  the  church. 

In  front  of  the  church  is  a pretty  park  of  roses,  well  kept.  The  grand  old  church 
with  its  tiled  dome  is  worthy  of  all  the  journey  to  see.  The  main  altar  has  life- 
size  figures  representing  the  Crucifixion.  Behind  there  is  a canvas  painting  repre- 
senting the  hill  of  Calvary,  with  the  Jews  and  Roman  soldiery  in  the  middle  back- 
ground. These,  with  the  figures  in  front,  produce  a very  startling  effect. 

The  church  is  filled  with  people  kneeling  at  the  various  altars  and  confessionals 
at  all  times.  On  the  right  of  the  church  is  the  old  art  gallery,  filled*  with  hun- 
dreds pf  curious  paintings  illustrating  the  lives  and  temptations  *of  the  saints — some 
of  them  going  very  much  into  detail.  One  fine  picture  of  a giant  and  cherub,  at  the 
head  of  the  staircase,  is  finely  executed,  and  seems  to  be  the  work  of  a master  hand. 

The  Capilla , or  chapel,  is  a more  recent  addition  to  the  old  church,  the  gift  of  a 
maiden  lady  of  great  wealth,  a few  years  ago,  and  cost  many  thousands  of  dollars. 
The  floor  is  inlaid  with  hard  woods  of  different  colors.  A superb  altar  is  rich  in  gild- 
ings, silver  and  gold,  wax  figures,  silk  and  satin  hangings.  The  altar  rail  is  of  onyx 
and  solid  silver.  The  walls  are  finely  frescoed,  arched  to  a dome  fifty  feet  above  the 
floor.  This  is  all  new,  but  is  the  finest  chapel  in  Mexico.  The  ride  back  to  Zacatecas 
is  not  so  rapid,  but  the  mules  work  to  the  entire  satisfaction  of  everybody,  the 
Boston  man  included. 

The  mines  may  be  visited  by  permit.  Some  are  entered  by  shafts,  others  by 
tunnel.  If  you  choose  the  former,  the  descent  is  by  bucket  let  down  by  liorse-power 
windlass.  Ladies  undertake  the  trip  sometimes,  but  are  not  welcomed  by  the 
miners,  as  they  are  regarded  as  unlucky  visitors.  This  rule  does  not  apply  to 
the  proper  sort  of  a girl,  if  a white  horse  works  the  windlass. 

Calera,  Lerdo,  Torreon,  Jiminez,  Chihuahua,  are  all  important  cities  on  the 
Mexican  Central  Railroad,  between  Zacatecas  and  El  Paso,  which  have  had  attention 
in  another  part  of  this  book. 


THE  INTEROCEANIC  RAILWAY 


tY  its  charter  and  concessions  will  extend  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  and  the  City  of  Mexico  will  be  a way  station.  As  now  com- 
pleted, wrhat  is  called  the  Morelos  road  extends  from  the  capital  southward 
to  Cuautla  and  Yautepec,  and  the  Irolo  road  to  the  town  of  that  name,  with 
an  eastern  destination  at  Vera  Cruz,  going  via  Puebla  and  Jalapa  ; which  places,  for- 
merly reached  by  branch  roads,  are  now  on  the  main  line. 

The  road  is  under  construction  and  rapidly  pushing  to  completion  its  eastern 
terminus  at  Vera  Cruz,  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  its  western  at  Acapulco,  on  the 
Pacific.  The  Interoceanic  will  be  of  vast  interest  to  the  commerce  of  the  world,  as  it 
will  be  the  shortest  route  across  the  continent  of  the  Americas,  involving  the  shortest 
sea  voyage,  meaning,  that  the  shorter  railways  at  Tehuantepec  and  across  the 
Isthmus  of  Panama  necessitate  longer  sea  voyages  of  thousands  of  miles  in  both 
oceans,  which  more  than  counterbalance  the  slight  increase  of  distance  on  land 
as  covered  by  the  Interoceanic  Railroad.  The  distance  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Acapulco 
by  the  way  of  the  City  of  Mexico  is  1,030  kilometres  or  about  645  miles,  but  the 
completion  of  the  road  from  Chietla  to  the  main  line  on  the  western  slope,  say 
at  Tepecoacuilco,  would  shorten,  the  mileage  from  sea  to  sea  to  about  475  miles — a 
one  day’s  run  for  a passenger  train  and  little  more  than  two  for  a freight,  and,  as  I 
have  said,  saving  of  several  days  sail  on  the  Atlantic  or  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  as  much 
on  the  Pacific. 

As  a tourist  route  the  Interoceanic  R.  R.  has  unbounded  attractions,  running  as  it 
does  over  the  mountains,  through  the  pulque  plains  and  the  hot  country  ; it  is  the 
only  line  reaching  the  volcanoes  of  Popocatapetl  and  Ixtaccihuatl,  running  on  both 
sides  of  the  range  and  in  full  view  of  them  for  miles  and  miles,  coming  to  their 
base  at  Amecameca,  one  of  the  most  thoroughly  Mexican  towns  in  all  Mexico. 
Puebla,  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  interesting  cities  of  the  country,  is  on  the  main 
line,  hitherto  reached  only  by  change  of  cars  to  a branch  road.  Jalapa,  the  quaint,  is 
also  on  the  main  line,  and  "will  be  passed  en  route  from  VeraCruz  to  the  City  of 
Mexico,  an  advantage  that  will  be  appreciated  by  those  who  have  taken  the  seventy- 
mile  horse-car  ride.  To  visit  either  Puebla  or  Jalapa  has  heretofore  taken  the  best 
part  of  two  days  in  going  and  returning,  but  now  the  schedules  of  the  Interoceanic 
will  save  all  this  time.  For  day  excursions  from  the  City  of  Mexico  the  new  road 
offers  more  attractions  than  any  other  ; one  may  go  to  Amecameca  and  the  volcanoes 
and  return  same  day,  or  to  Puebla,  passing  the  Plains  of  Apam,  the  pulque  regions, 
or  to  Texcoco  and  the  wonderful  and  luxurious  gardens  of  Molino  de  Flores,  and  a 
score  of  other  interesting  points,  the  visiting  of  which  will  add  to  the  interest  of  the 
tour. 

The  Morelos  trains  leave  the  City  of  Mexico  from  San  Lazaro  station,  reached  by 
horse-cars  starting  from  the  plaza  in  front  of  the  Cathedral.  Passing  through  the 
outskirts  of  the  city,  the  artillery  school  and  adobe  targets  are  on  the  left.  Then  the 
road  comes  to  the  shores  of  Lake  Texcoco,  and  for  some  miles  runs  along  the  old 
causeway,  once  the  highwray  to  Puebla,  passing  between  two  rows  of  trees  standing 
so  close  to  the  track  that  they  can  be  almost  touched  from  the  cars.  The  lake  is  on 
the  left,  and  a marsh  that  in  rainy  season  is  also  a lake,  and  at  all  times  is  literally 
alive  with  ducks  and  other  water  fowl.  This  marsh  connects  Lake  Texcoco  with 
Lakes  Xochimilco  and  Chaleo. 


* CITY  OF  MEXICO  TO  AMECAMECA.  65 

Los  Reyes  is  the  point  of  junction  of  the  two  sections  (the  Irolo  ami  Morelos)  of 

the  Interoceanic  road. 

Ayotla  is  the  town  of  fishermen  of  Lake  Chaleo,  who  bring  the  products  of  their 
catch  to  the  trains  for  sale.  The  old  adode  town  is  a very  pretty  one,  on  the  shores 

of  the  lake  to  the  right 

After  passing  Ayotla  the  road  makes  a turn  around  the  lake,  and  the  volcanoes 


On  the  Sacred  Mountain  at  Amecameca. 

come  to  view  and  are  in  sight  through  all  the  journey,  seen  first  from  the  left 
windows,  but  as  the  track  curves  about  are  seen  from  either  side. 

La  Compania  is  a very  pretty  little  village,  where  there  is  liorse-car  connection  on 
th<T  left  for  Tlalmanalco,  and  on  the  right  along  a shaded  roadway  to  Chaleo,  a city 
on  the  border  of  that  lake,  whose  towers  and  domes  can  be  seen  for  some  distance  as 
the  train  moves  southward.  Next  is  the  village  of  Cuatlenchan,  on  a hill  on  the  left 
side  ; the  church  on  the  top  of  the  hill  is  seen  up  and  down  the  road  for  several 
.miles. 

Amecameca  is  the  stopping  place  for  the  pilgrims  bound  for  the  craters  of  Popo- 
catapetl  and  Ixtaccihuatl.  The  train  rounds  the  hill  and  stops  right  at  the  base  of 
Sacro  Monte  (the  sacred  mountain),  one  of  the  most  picturesque  shrines  in  all  Mexico. 
Look  from  the  windows  on  the  right,  or  while  the  train  waits  step  on  the  platform 
for  a good  view  of  the  stone  stairway,  almost  hidden  by  a dense  grove  of  trees. 
The  city  lies  spread  out  on  a plain  on  the  left  of  the  track.  Tourists  who  have  no 
time  for  a longer  stay,  or  do  not  continue  to  the  end  of  the  road,  may  lea\  e Mexico  on 
the  morning  train,  have  a few  hours  at  Amecameca  and  return  in  the  afternoon.  The 
view  from  the  Sacro  Monte  is  superbly  magnificent.  No  nearer  view  of  the  volcanoes 


-i 


MEXICO . 


66 


is  obtainable  unless  the  ascent  is  made,  which  requires  three  days’  time  and  is 
attended  with  much  discomfort ; but  the  adventure  of  the  ascent,  and  the  seeing 
of  the  grandest  view  of  the  world  from  a height  of  nearly  18,000  feet,  is  worth  any 
amount  of  fatigue.  The  first  day  of  the  ascent  is  taken  by  the  ride  on  horseback 
from  Amecameca  to  the  rancho  of  the  owner  of  the  mountain  and  its  sulphur  indus- 
try, where  the  night  is  spent.  The  second  day  is  used  by  the  ride  to  the  snow  line 
and  the  walk  to  the  crater,  the  going  down  by  bucket  and  windlass  into  the  crater, 
and  the  return  to  the  rancho,  where  the  second  night  is  spent,  and  the  descent  to 
Amecameca  and  return  to  Mexico  may  be  accomplished  on  the  third  day.  Permis- 
sion from  the  owner  of  the  mountain  should  be  obtained  in  Mexico  City,  where 
should  also  be  obtained  a plentiful  supply  for  the  wants  of  the  inner  man,  and  warm 
wraps,  mittens,  etc.  The  cost  of  the  ascent  is  about  twenty-five  dollars  each  for  a 
party,  or  more,  if  only  one  or  two. 

If  the  stay  at  Amecameca  is  only  a few  hours  the  Sacro  Monte  will  take  up  the 
time.  Here  has  been  the  scene  of  some  weirdly  novel  religious  ceremonies.  There 
is  in  the  shrine  of  the  Sacro  Monte  an  image  of  Christ  in  the  sepulchre  ; it  is  life 
size,  made  of  some  very  light  material,  so  that  its  weight  is  not  more  than  three  or 


Native  Residence  in  the  Hot  Country. 

four  pounds  ; the  material  must  be  as  durable  as  it  is  light,  since  it  is  known  to  have 
been  here  more  than  three  hundred  and  forty  years,  and  tradition  says  longer.  There 
is  a great  pilgrimage  to  the  shrine  during  Lent.  The  commencement  of  the  feast, 
not  a fast,  is  on  Ash  Wednesday,  when  the  image  is  carried  in  procession  to  the 
parish  church,  where  it  remains  till  Good  Friday,  and  then,  with  greater  pomp, 
is  carried  back  to  the  shrine. 


AMEC  AMEC  A TO  YAUTEPEC. 


67 

There  is  a good  hotel  at  Amecameca,  good  wine,  good  beer,  good  pulque  and  a 
clever  host.  1 1 

Leaving  the  town  the  railway  passes  through  one  of  the  streets  of  the  town  and 
crosses  the  stone  causeway  which  was  built  for  the  pilgrim  processions,  betv  -en  the 

church  and  the  shrine. 

At  Ozumba  there  is  time  for  dinner,  or  rather  breakfast,  and  an  excellent  meal  is 
served.  At  a point  a few  miles  south  of  the  station  the  highest  elevation  of  the  road 
is  reached,  there  having  been  a continuous  climb  from  the  plain  of  Mexico,  and  the 
down  grade  to  the  hot  country  is  commenced,  and  without  an  engine  the  train  would 
roll  to  Cuautla,  would  roll  too  fast,  so  the  engine  is  retained  to  hold  it  in  check. 

From  the  station  at  Nepantla  there  is  a magnificent  view  from  the  left  windows, 
a view  taking  in  millions  of  acres  of  the  hot  lands  to  the  mountains,  a hundred  miles 
beyond.  For  miles  and  miles,  as  the  train  rolls  down  the  hills,  may  be  seen  first  from 
one  side  and  then  the  other  the  dome  and  tower  of  a church.  The  same  church  may 
be  seen  for  two  hours  ; it  is  the  church  of  San  Miguel,  at  Atlatlahutla,  and  near  it 
an  abandoned  monastery.  Here  again  the  tourist  finds  another  feature  of  Mexico’s 
scenery  and  people,  totally  different  from  all  the  other  travels  in  the  republic.  The 
houses  are  adobe  as  to  walls  and  thatched  as  to  roof  ; the  broad  plains  have  curious 
trees  ; bands  of  Indians  troop  from  one  town  to  another  in  curious  costumes,  march- 
ing along  totally  oblivious  to  the  passing  locomotive  and  approaching  civilization, 
and  will  not  give  way  to  the  latter  any  quicker  than  they  will  to  the  engine  if  they 
happen  to  be  on  the  track  when  it  comes  along.  Fact,  it  is  hard  for  them  to  under- 
stand that  the  train  cannot  “ keep  to  the  right”  when  it  meets  people  in  the  road, 
and  they  claim  the  right  of  way  from  the  fact  that  they  were  there  first. 

Now  the  sugar  country  is  reached  and  the  train  passes  through  a fine  hacienda 
and  backs  into  Cuautla  on  a Y ; passing  and  crossing  an  aqueduct,  where  the  natives 
are  seen  bathing  and  washing  clothes,  comes  to  a station  that  was  once  a church. 

The  train  stops  some  minutes  at  Cuautla  and  there  is  time  for  a walk  through  the 
little  alameda,  just  outside  of  the  station,  where  there  are  pretty  trees  and  flowers, 
a hotel  where  there  are  good  wines,  coffee  and  lunches  to  be  had. 

As  the  approach  to  the  station  has  been  through  a grove  of  tropical  trees  and 
gardens,  so  is  its  departure,  and  continues  southward  through  the  cane  country  to 
Yautepec  ; the  distant  mountains  enrich  the  scene,  making  a blue  background  to  a 
lovely  tropical  picture. 

At  Yautepec  the  American  feels  that  he  is  indeed  away  from  home.  Once  away 
from  the  railway  station  and  out  of  sight  of  the  locomotive  there  is  nothing  whatever 
to  remind  him  of  his  own  country  or  of  an  advanced  stage  of  civilization.  It  is  a 
picturesque  little  town  on  a rambling  stream,  whose  rocky  bed  is  almost  dry  except  in 
tke*rainy  season,  when  there  is  too  much  water  as  there  was  too  little  before,  and  it 
rushes  along  to  the  imminent  danger  of  the  town.  The  plaza  and  alameda  are  one  ; 
it  is  beautifully  shaded  and  is  filled  with  bright  flowers  ; the  fountain  in  the  centre 
flows  _pure  water  and  the  people  flock  here  with  jars  and  jugs  for  their  supply.  In 
the  evening  there  is  music  and  the  entire  populace  turns  out  to  hear  it.  The  sight  is 
a novel  one.  The  band  is  on  the  stand  under  the  trees  ; the  better  class  promenade  the 
walks  in  never-ending  procession,  while  others  are  seated  on  the  stone  benches  or 
squat  on  the  ground,  the  bright-hued  serapes  and  rebosos  giving  high  color  to  the 
scene  ; the  market  women  sit  upon  the  ground  surrounded  by  their  wares,  little  piles 
of  beans,  peppers,  chili,  etc. ; the  flickering  rushlights  only  seem  to  show  how  quaint 
the  picture  is.  On  another  side  is  a long  table,  about  which  are  gathered  old  men 
and  women,  young  men  and  maidens,  children  and  babies,  playing  at  a game  of 

chance,  the  whole  altogether  the  most  novel  scene  of  my  travels. 

In  going  to  the  hotel  it  will  be  necessary  to  have  some  one  point  out  “ El  Oran 


68 


MEXICO 


Central ,”  otherwise  the  identity  of  that  hotel  would  never  be  detected,  neither  would 
the  hotel  ever  be  accused  of  being  a “ Grand  Central  ” anywhere  but  at  Yautepec.  It 
is  not  the  building  that  is  “grand  central,”  but  the  welcome,  from  an  old  Indian 
woman  with  a wrinkled  but  kindly  face.  The  clean  beds,  linen,  etc.,  are  all  “ grand 
central,”  and  there  can  be  no  regrets  for  staying  there.  The  fonda  next  door  fur- 
nishes a good  meal  at  reasonable  prices. 

After  Yautepec,  continue  on  to  the  terminus  or  turn  back  to  the  city  by  rail,  or 
ride  five  hours  on  horseback  through  the  sugar  lands  to  Cuernavaca,  where  there 
are  antiquities,  some  pretty  gardens  and  caves  ; 
thence  by  diligence  to  the  city,  the  route 
shows  some  fine  scenery. 

the  mono  DIVISION 

of  the  Interoceanic  road  extends 
from  the  City  of  Mexico  to  Calpu- 
lalpam,  with  an  ultimate  desti- 
nation at  Vera  Cruz,  passing 
through  Puebla  and  Jalapa. 

Trains  start  from  San  Lazaro 
station  and  run  over  the  same 
track  as  the  Morelos  trains  as 
far  as  Los  Reyes,  where  it 
turns  eastward  and  passes 
the  town  o L a Magdalena, 
seen  from  the  left  side  of 
the  cars,  going  on  through 
a country  of  churches, 
some  near,  some  far  off, 
and  comes  to  Chapingo, 
the  gorgeous  hacienda  of 
Ex-President  Gonzalez,  on  ' 
the  left,  and  then  to  Tex- 
coco,  a city  older  than  old 
of  learning  and  civilization 
Rome  combined,  and  the  home  of  a race  of  Indian 

kings,  as  also  of  Cortes,  and  for  a while  the  resting-place  of  his  bones.  There  is 
much  at  Texcoco  to  interest  the  antiquarian  tourist.  Two  miles  and  a half  east  of 
the  town  is Tetzcotzinco,  “ the  laughing  hill,”  once  a favorite  resort  of  Netzohual- 
coyotl,  an  ancient  Aztec  chief,  where  there  are  ruins  of  fountains,  terraced  walks, 
baths  cut  in  stone.  The  water  supply  for  the  baths  and  gardens  was  brought  from 
the  hills,  ten  miles  away,  by  a stone  aqueduct,  which  has  not  altogether  disap- 
peared. See  the  gardens  and  the  cascades  of  Molino  de  Flores,  and  the  great  idol, 
Xicaca,  “ goddess  of  waters.”  A nearly  perfect  figure,  about  twenty  feet  long  by 
four  across,  and  in  a fair  state  of  preservation,  it  lies  prostrate  near  Cuatlenchan, 
about  six  miles  from  Texcoco. 

I have  been  to  Molino  de  Flores,  the  beautiful  “mill  of  the  flowers”  and  my 
memory  serves  me  now  for  pretty  dreams. 

“ Gracias , senor,  con  mucho  gusto.” 

Thus  I nearly  exhausted  my  entire  vocabulary  of  Spanish  in  accepting  an  invita- 
tion to  join  a party  for  a Sunday  excursion  around  Lake  Texcoco  to  Texcoco  on  the 
Irolo  Railway  and  spend  the  day  at  Molino  de  Flores. 

I had  heard  of  Molino  de  Flores,  and  a guide  book  hint  places  it  as  the  destination 


MOLINO  DE  FLORES. 


69 


of  a pleasant  excursion,  and  the  estate  of  an  old  Spanish  family,  by  name  Cervantes, 
one  of  the  oldest,  one  of  the  noblest  descendants  from  the  Grandees  of  old  Spain. 

At  nine-thirty  the  train  pulled  out  from  San  Lazaro  station  and  in  an  hour  we 
were  at  Texcoco,  where  diligences  awaited  the  party,  and  in  half  an  hour  the  mules 
galloped  over  the  leagues  to  Molino  de  Flores — the  mill  of  flowers,  as  it  is  prosaically 


A Bust  Street. 

translated.  Let  the  American  reader  disabuse  his  mind  of  a flour  mill,  or  anything 
of  a barn-like  structure  with  dusty  sides  and  roof,  and  dustier  interior  that  may  be 
remembered  of  the  mills  at  home.  Heavy  gates  open  through  stone  walls  and  admit 
the  diligences  to  what  seems  the  court-yard  of  a mediaeval  castle.  Tortuous  stone 
stairtvays  lead  to  the  castle,  up  the  rugged  sides  of  a hill  to  the  summer-house  of 
the  family  Cervantes.  Our  party  alighted  at  the  foot  of  the  stairs,  but  not  to  ascend 
them  ; passed  through  another  gate  and  around  the  mill,  itself  of  stone,  and  seem- 
ing a part  of  the  castle.  That  gate  opened  to  a garden  that  might  have  been  a part 
ol  Eden* 

I crossed  a bridge  and  walked  along  a swift  running  stream,  on  whose  borders, 
on  this  December  day,  grew  and  bloomed  calla  lilies,  violets  and  roses  ; tall  acacias 
made  a grateful  shade,  diverting  the  rays  of  almost  a summer  sun.  An  owl  sat  in 
the  hollow  of  a tree  as  if  to  hoot  at  intruding  mortals  in  this  garden  of  the  fairies, 
and  hideous  idols,  from  their  pedestals,  scowled  in  unison  at  the  intrusion.  Only 
the  murmurs  of  splashing  cascades  and  twittering  birds  broke  the  silence  that  fell. 
All  words  were  lost  in  admiration.  While  I stood  and  wondered  soft  music  came 
floating  through  the  intertwining  trees.  The  melody  came,  I did  not  know  from 
where.  It  was  an  air  of  lordly  Spain,  where  the  softer  notes  of  the  guitar  came 


70 


MEXICO . 


creeping  through  the  ferns,  a mellow  tenor  floated  over  the  roses,  and  a deeper  basso 
rolled  on  the  violet  beds.  I lingered  and  listened  till  the  last  sweet  note  died  away, 
and  walked  on,  beside  the  noisy  waters,  and  came  to  a grotto  hollowed  by  Nature’s 
hand,  and  shadowed  by  overhanging  boughs,  where  flowering  vines  had  climbed  and 
from  the  rocks  above  some  prickly  cactus  hung,  as  if  to  do  guard  duty  against 
approach  that  way.  A pool  of  clear,  sparkling  water  was  in  the  grotto’s  basin.  Here 
might  have  been  the  home  of  some  queen  of  the  water  nymphs,  where,  sporting  with 
the  maidens  of  her  court,  shut  in  by  flowery  screens  and  waving  ferns,  might  bathe 
unseen.  It  might  have  been  all  this,  but  it  is  the  Cervantes  bath.  I sat  here  under  * 
a bower  of  fuchsias  ; some  great  white  bell-shaped  flowers  hung  above  me  and  filled 
the  air  with  soft  perfume.  I sat  and  dreamed — unconsciously  looking  at  the  em- 
bowered grotto — really,  I wras  not  waiting  to  see  if  the  water  nymphs  might  come 
back.  I was  in  no  hurry.  I just  waited,  that's  all. 

I walked  on,  and  came  to  a turn  in  the  path.  Across  the  ravine  I saw  the  family 
chapel.  Some  Moorish  work  around  a cavern  made  the  shrine.  Two  sides  were 
Nature’s  own  handiwork  ; human  hands  had  only  added  a little  belfry  and  the  bells. 

In  the  chapel  lie  the  departed  Cervantes,  in  tombs  of  solid  stone,  and  in  the  un- 
hewn walls  are  tablets  showing  the  family  crest  and  dates  of  its  history.  Before 
the  quaint  little  altar  dimly  burns  a lamp  that  is  never  extinguished,  throwing  an 
uncertain  light  on  the  faded  painting  of  the  crucifixion  on  the  rock  behind  it.  I 
liked  not  these  as  well  as  the  scenes  in  fairyland  across  the  stream,  and  I turned  to 
the  bridge  again.  One  more  look  : almost  hidden,  I saw  the  window  that  lights  the 
cell  of  the  hermit  padre  whose  chapel  this  is. 

Looking  down  the  rocky  ravine  that  lies  between  the  church  and  the  garden,  the 
walls,  that  might  serve  a fortress  well,  and  the  cliffs,  seemed  one  mass  of  creeping 
vines  that  lent  much  color  to  the  picture,  in  pleasing  contrast  with  the  gray  of  the 
rocks  below  ; and  the  white  of  the  foaming  waters  seemed  softened  by  a tinge  of 
reflected  color. 

I had  noticed  the  stairways  that  led  from  this  path  beside  the  stream,  up  the 
steep  hillside,  steps  paved  with  pebbles^  On  the  landings  are  letters  in  colored 
pebbles  directing  to  some  bower  or  other  path.  At  the  top  I came  to  a level  place 
where  the  greenest  grass  made  the  carpet,  bordered  in  blue  and  white  with  violets 
and  daisies.  On  a little  mound  a thatch-roofed  pagoda  is  almost  hidden  by  the 
roses.  I wonder  if  in  the  long  ago  this  was  the  try  sting  place  of  some  Aztec  Claude 
Melnotte.  Perhaps  under  these  very  trees  he  and  his  doting  Pauline  sat  and  picked 
out  the  stars  that  should  be  their  home.  But  could  it  be  a brighter  one  than  this  ? 

While  I pondered  thus  I was  sent  for.  Dinner  wras  ready.  A table  wTas  set  under 
the  trees,  all  bright  with  snowy  linen  and  glittering  silver,  and  the  bounteous  ban- 
quet that  was  served  made  my  return  to  earth  not  disappointing.  I forgot  the  cascades 
and  the  birds.  Clinking  glasses  and  popping  corks  make  a man  forget  much. 

I found  where  the  music  came  from.  While  we  ate,  a native  orchestra  discoursed 
the  melodies  of  the  country.  I could  catch  glimpses  of  the  white  costumes  of  the 
players  and  the  red  zerape  of  the  leader  as  the  broad  leaves  that  hid  them  swrayed  in 
the  breeze.  It  was  a merry  party  around  that  table — dark-eyed  senoritas , beaming 
senoras,  that  must  make  the  fairies  envy  if  they  came  back  to-day.  Gallant  Caballeros 
attended,  and  no  minute  was  lost  if  a duenna  looked  the  other  way.  For  hours  the 
viands  came  to  the  board,  W'ere  discussed  and  sent  away,  till  the  dulces  sweetened 
and  the  helados  cooled  the  appetite. 

Now  the  tables  were  in  the  way,  but  not  long  : they  disappeared  and  the  banquet 
hall  was  turned  to  Terpsichore.  Tripping  feet  kept  time  to  livelier  music,  gleam- 
ing  eyes  looked  up  to  eyes  that  spake  again,  and  reflected  the  glittering  silver  on  the 
under  side  of  a broad  sombrero. 


TEXCOCO  AND  CALPULAPAM. 


71 


. .The  n3f ht  af*er’  l deP*  V*  the  ers^hile  palace  of  the  Iturbides,  and  in  my  Bleep 
visions  of  beautiful  flowers  lingered  in  my  dreams.  I sat  under  the  trees  again  • my 
friends  had  all  gone— the  sweet  odor  of  the  bell-flowers  came  back  to  me.  It  seemed 
that  I was  back  at  the  grotto,  but  before  the  water  nymphs  came,  I awoke. 

After  leaving  Texcoco  the  road  runs  very  near  and  in  sight  of  a great  aqueduct 
which  is  nearly  40  miles  long  and  has  arches  nearly  a hundred  feet  high,  built  three 
hundred  years  ago.  Now  the  road  passes  between  the  mountains  and  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  lake  and  comes  to  Irolo,  and  enters  the  borders  of  the  pulque  region  and 
connects  there  with  trains  for  Pachuca,  pending  the  completion  of  a branch  line  to 


An  Old  Bridge. 


that  city,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Hidalgo  and  the  centre  of  a rich  mining  district, 
probably  among  the  richest  in  the  world,  the  output  being  told  in  millions  by  the 
most  fabulous  figures.  The  Interoceanic  has  more  points  of  interest  to  the  tourist 
than  any  line  leading  out  from  the  capital.  As  has  been  stated,  the  Morelos  road 
leads  down  past  the  volcanoes,  and  the  Irolo  road,  now  the  Eastern  or  Vera  Cruz  di- 
vision, circles  the  lakes  of  the  plain  of  Mexico,  passes  the  Pyramids  of  the  Sun  and 
Moon,  to  be  seen  from  the  windows  on  the  left,  across  the  plain  in  the  distance.  The 
line  now  enters  the  plain  of  Apam,  famous  for  the  growth  of  the  maguey  plant  the 
American  aloe — closely  resembling  and  sometimes  called  the  century  plant,  from 
which  pulque , the  national  beverage,  is  made,  as  written  of  elsewhere. 

At  Calpulapam  there  is  a branch  road  to  Soledad.  The  road  now  runs  along  the 
eastern  slope  of  the  range  of  mountains  of  which  the  great  volcanoes  are  the  high- 
est, and  their  snow-covered  peaks  may  be  seen  for  many  miles.  At  Los  Arcos 
another  branch  leaves  the  main  line,  and,  running  in  a southwesterly  direction,  w ill 


72 


MEXICO . 


ultimately  connect  with  the  Morelos  division  and  greatly  shorten  the  distance  across 
the  continent. 

After  crossing  the  Atovac  the  line  comes  to  Puebla,  on  the  main  line  and  one  ol 
the  greatest  cities  of  Mexico,  and  there  is  much  to  see.  The  Cathedral,  with  its 
towers  and  domes  of  many-colored  tiles  and  interior  adornings  of  onyx  and  fine 
paintings,  the  various  chapels  which  commemorate  the  miracles  that  are  so  plentiful 
in  their  legendary  history,  are  to  be  visited — the  Hall  of  Bishops  and  the  old  tapes- 
tries and  portraits,  then  the  plazas,  portales  and  the  paseos,  all  rich  in  attractions. 
But  chief  of  all  is  the  Pyramid  of  Cholula,  reached  by  a horse-car  ride  of  seven 
miles.  The  pyramid  is  over  200  feet  in  height.  On  its  crest  was  once  a temple  dedi- 
cated to  Quetzalcoatl,  “ God  of  the  Air,”  but  now  there  is  a church  on  the  spot.  A 
paved  road  winds  up  the  sides  of  the  pyramid,  and  the  view  that  grows  as  the  climb 
is  made  is  a grand  one — far  off  the  hills  and  volcanoes,  a little  nearer  the  spreading 
plains,  at  the  base  the  village  of  Cholula,  and  the  city  of  Puebla  over  there. 

Leaving  Puebla,  the  road  traverses  a rich  agricultural  country,  crossing  the 
Mexican  B/ailroad  at  San  Marcos,  and  at  Yireyes  there  is  a branch  road  to  San  Juan. 
Now  running  northeasterly,  the  line  is  finished  to  Perote,  but  before  this  edition  is 
exhausted  will  reach  Jalapa,  or  even  Yera  Cruz,  ending  a journey  which  offers  a great 
variety  of  attraction  from  the  snow-capped  volcanoes  to  the  cane  and  coffee  trees  of 
the  tierra  caliente. 


La  Visa  Gate,  City  of  Mexico, 


THE  MEXICAN  RAILWAY. 


fHE  name  of  the  line  does  not  indicate  its  route  any  more  than  those  of  any 
of  the  other  railways  of  the  Republic,  all  using  some  title  of  a national 
character  rather  than  of  destination  or  direction.  The  Mexican  Railway 
leads  from  the  City  of  Mexico  to  Vera  Cruz,  with  a descending  grade  in  263 
miles  of  from  7,349  feet  above  the  sea  at  Buena  Vista  station,  in  the  City  of  Mexico, 
to  its  level  at  Vera  Cruz— not  a continuous  descending  grade,  but  that  is  the  dif- 
ference in  the  altitude  of  the  termini. 

At  one  point  on  the  line  at  Ococotlan  the  altitude  reaches  a height  of  more  than 
8,300  feet ; the  greater  percentage  of  the  descent  is  made  in  a distance  of  20  miles, 
between  Boca  del  Monte  and  Maltrata,  and  the  scenery  of  this  20  miles  is  the  chief 

object  of  the  ride  itself. 

Trains  leave  the  City  of  Mexico  in  the  early  morning  and  reach  Vera  Cruz  just 
after  dark,  affording  a daylight  ride  that  will  show  the  varied  scenery  of  Mexico, 
from  the  volcanoes  and  high  tablelands  down  to  the  hot  country  by  the  sea. 

For  the  first  hundred  and  fifty  miles  of  the  journey  it  will  make  no  difference  on 
which  side  of  the  car  a seat  is  taken  ; but  for  the  scenery  down  the  mountain,  from 
Boca  del  Monte  to  Maltrata,  the  seat  must  be  on  the  right  side,  and  for  general  results 
a seat  on  that  side  should  be  chosen.  Leaving  the  City  of  Mexico,  the  road  runs  due 
north  three  miles,  along  side  of  the  causeway  to  the  village  and  church  of  Guadaloupe 
— the  holiest  shrine  in  all  Mexico.  Along  the  causeway  to  be  seen  from  the  right- 
hand  windows  are  shrines  and  archways  dedicated  to  the  saints,  and  here  the  devotees 
stopped  to  pray  and  processions  marched  by,  from  Mexico  to  Guadaloupe  ; this 
passed,  the  village  and  church  are  to  be  seen  from  the  other  side  of  the  cars.  Still, 
on  the  right  the  view  shows  Lake  Texcoco,  the  city,  and  the  volcanoes  of  Popoca- 
tapetl  and  Ixtaccihuatl,  which  are  hardly  out  of  sight  all  day.  An  hour  after  leaving 
the  city  look  for  the  Pyramids  of  the  Sun  and  Moon  on  the  left  of  the  track  ; a low 
line  of  earthwork  causeway  connects  the  two.  Seen  from  the  cars  the  pyramids  do 
not  appear  very  majestic,  but  in  reality  their  proportions  are  quite  ambitious,  being 
210  and  150  feet  high  respectively.  An  entrance  to  the  pyramid  of  the  Moon  has 
been  effected,  the  interior  explored  and  some  very  interesting  prehistoric  relics 
discovered  indicating  their  building  by  a race  of  people  older  than  the  Toltecs. 

From  a scenic  point  of  view  this  journey  will  prove  a success,  but  during  the 
first-hours  of  it  one  will  carp  at  the  dust  and  dirt.  Let  no  traveler  come  to  Mexico 
without  a duster,  and  let  him  take  it  on  the  trip  to  Vera  Cruz. 

Fifty  miles  from  the  city  are  the  plains  of  Apam,  the  great  pulque  district.  For 
miles  on  either  side,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  the  long  rows  of  maguey  plants 
show  where  the  national  beverage  comes  from.  The  collecting  of  the  crude  pulque  is 
novel  and  interesting.  When  the  maguey  or  century  plant  is  about  to  bloom  it  sends 
up  a shoot  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  high.  When  this  shoot  appears  it  is  cut  out  and 
the  sap  that  would  go  into  this  stalk  and  bloom  collects  in  the  centre  of  the  plant. 
This  is  the  crude  pulque.  Each  day,  until  the  life  of  the  plant  is  exhausted,  an 
Indian  and  a burro , with  hog-skin  bags  on  their  backs,  visit  each  plant.  I he  Indian 
with  a long-handled  gourd,  a small  hole  pierced  in  each  end,  draws  the  sap  from  the 
plant,  empties  it  from  the  gourd  to  the  hog-skin,  and  from  the  hog-skin  to  the  cask 
on  the  cart  at  the  end  of  the  row.  After  a process  of  fermentation  this  sap  becomes 
pulque  and  must  be  sent  to  market  at  once.  P ulque  will  not  keep.  * Knowing  this, 


D 


74 


MEXICO. 


perhaps,  the  Mexican,  not  liking  to  see  a good  thing  wasted,  proceeds  to  drink  it 
energetically,  and  desists  not  till  his  last  tlaco  has  vanished. 

No  matter  whether  you  have  experimented  with  pulque  elsewhere  or  not — get  a 
glass  at  Apam,  or  rather  a mug — it  is  peddled  at  the  station  in  earthen  mugs,  by  In- 
dians of  all  sizes,  colors  and  conditions  ; but  the  pulque  is  good.  Mescal  and  tequila 
are  drinks  of  a stronger  nature,  like  rum,  both  made  from  a species  of  the  maguey. 

The  pulque  business  is  of 
such  proportions  that  spe- 
cial trains  are  required  to 
deliver  it  fresh  in  the  shops 
of  the  city  ; the  pulque 
trains  leave  the  plain  early 
in  the  morning  and  arrive 
in  the  city  by  four  o’clock, 
so  that  the  supply  is  fresh 
every  day. 

At  Apizaco  there  is  a 
branch  line  to  Puebla,  one 
of  the  oldest  cities  of 
Mexico,  requiring  a visit  of 
some  days.  There  is  a 
good  restaurant  at  the  sta- 
tion at  Apizaco  ; the  train 
stops  long  enough  for  cof- 
fee, pulque  or  to  buy  a cane 
or  basket  from  the  Pueblo 
Indians. 

As  an  evidence  of  civi- 
lization, at  least  from  the 
peddler  point  of  view,  he 
(the  peddler)  is  assiduous  in 
the  effort  to  dispose  of  his 
wares  as  is  his  American 
brother  who  comes  to  the 
cars  to  ply  his  vocation, 
and  is  fully  his  equal  in 
driving  a bargain,  and  as 
unscrupulous  as  to  the 
quality  of  the  goods  : the 
cane  may  or  may  not  be  of 
coffee  wood — you  buy  at 
you  like  i4,  I do,  and  fresh 
and  handmade, 


In  the  Coffee  Field. 


If 


your  own  risk.  The  pmlque  is  good,  as  pulque  goes, 
withal ; the  plains  of  Apam  are  near  by  ; the  baskets  are  pretty 
presumably  by  Indian  handmaidens.  What  more  can  you  ask  ? 

At  Esperanza  the  train  stops  for  breakfast ; call  it  dinner  if  you  will,  as  it  has 
reached  about  one  o’clock,  and  it  is  indeed  worth  waiting  for  ; everything  is  good, 
and  this  above  all  railway  eating-houses  must  not  be  missed. 

Esperanza  is  a great  shipping  point  for  cereals,  ores  and  other  products  of  the 
country,  brought  here  on  burros  to  be  forwarded  on  the  cars  ; about  the  station 
the  burros  stand  lazily  waiting  to  unload  or  start  on  the  return  trip. 

After  a good  meal  take  a seat  on  the  right ; prepare  to  see  the  finest  piece  of 
scenery  and  railway  engineering  in  the  country.  The  locomotive  which  has  pulled 


APAM  TO  ORIZABA. 


the  train  thus  far  is  detached,  and  the  monster  Fairlie  engine  is  placed  in  front  of 

the  train. 

A Fairlie  engine  is  in  reality  two  locomotives  in  one — heading  both  ways,  with 
two  smoke-stacks,  two  head  lights,  one  on  each  end  of  one  long  boiler,  with  the  cab 
in  the  centre,  over  the  fire-box  ; besides  being  so  powerful  that  they  can  pull  a train 
up  the  steep  grades,  they  can  hold  the  cars  back  while  going  down,  and  this  latter  is 
a principal  duty,  as  they  would  run  over  an  ordinary  locomotive,  as  not  heavy 
enough  even  with  wheels  working  backward  to  resist  the  force  of  the  rolling  cars. 

Air  and  steam  brakes  are  not  trust-  

ed  on  this  grade ; there  is  a man  at 
each  brake  wheel  on  each  car.  The 
train  leaves  Esperanza,  and  in  a few 
minutes  comes  to  Boca  del  Monte , 
where  the  down  grade  commences, 
at  a height  of  7,849  feet  above  the 
sea,  and  rolls  to  Maltrata,  a point 
only  5,544  feet,  making  a descent  of 
2,305  feet,  and  taking  sixteen  miles 
of  track  to  reach  a point  immedi- 
ately below  and  in  sight  all  the 
time  ; that  little  patch  of  tiled  roofs 
and  church  with  its  dome  of  red, 
wray  down  in  the  valley,  is  Maltrata. 

It  must  be  a fair  day  when  this 
journey  is  made,  o*r  the  tourist  will 
find  his  train  above  the  clouds,  and 
nothing  can  be  seen.  An  idea  may 
be  formed  of  the  windings  of  the 
road  to  get  dowTn  the  mountain 
when  it  is  told  that  the  Indians 
selling  fruits  and  flowers  at 
the  little  station  about  half- 
way down,  will  leave  by  the 
path  down  the  canon,  and 
reach  Maltrata  before  the 
train  does,  in  time  for  another 
sale. 

The  scenery  is  beyond  all  description,  the  trip  must  be  made,  and  will  never  be 
regretted  or  forgotten. 

From  Maltrata  the  road  follows  the  Rio  Blanco  through  the  valley  of  La  Joy  a, 
the  jewel,  and  comes  to  Orizaba,  a city  of  20,000  people,  lying  in  a lovely  valley,  a 
town  quaintly  picturesque,  and  just  on  the  border  of  the  hot  country,  where  a stop 
must  be  made.  The  hotels  are  good,  and  there  is  much  to  see  ; the  old  churches, 
the  plaza,  the  alameda  with  its  tropical  flowers,  the  waterfalls  in  the  neighborhood, 
and  all  the  great  natural  beauty  of  the  place  and  surrounding  country.  The  machine 
shops  of  the  railway  company  are  located  at  Orizaba.  On  the  left,  overlooking  the 
city,  is  the  hill  where  a sharp  battle  was  fought  between  the  French  and  Mexicans, 
and  the  cross  erected  there  is  to  the  memory  of  the  fallen  soldiers. 

Leaving  Orizaba  the  scenery  continues  grandly  beautiful.  The  track  lies  on  the 
mountain  side,  winds  in  and  out  in  sharp  curves,  through  tunnels,  over  bridges  and 
along  ledges  where  the  canons  are  hundreds  of  feet  deep,  and  coming  to  tlie  Metlac 
gorge,  crosses  it  on  a curved  bridge,  which  may  be  seen,  and  the  track  on  the  other 


Water  Works. 


76 


MEXICO. 


side  of  the  gorge,  for  some  minutes  before,  from  the  right-hand  windows,  and  far  be- 
low the  track  is  a foaming  torrent  rushing  down  the  barranca  under  the  arches  of  an 
old  stone  bridge  of  the  public  highway. 

There  must  not  be  a moment  lost  now  ! Keep  to  the  point  of  observation  all  the 
time — watch  the  mountain  and  the  valley,  see  this  cascade  and  that  tumbling 
and  roaring  over  the  rocks,  showing  like  liquid  silver  amongst  the  green  of  the 
shadowing  trees. 

Now  the  scenery  is  different  entirely  from  all  before  traveled  through.  The 

adobe  house  gives  place  to 
those  of  thatched  sides  and 
roofs.  The  barren  hills 
have  melted  away  to  orange 
groves  and  gardens  of  bana- 
nas with  coffee  trees  almost 
brushing  the  car  windows. 
There  are  green  forests 
with  trees  and  vines  hang- 
ing with  flowers ; great 
trees  with  yellow  flowers, 
whose  golden  beauty  would 
be  worth  thousands  if  they 
could  be  imported  to  some 
city  of  ours.  Such  scenes 
are  on  either  side  for  some 
miles  tow  ard  Vera  Cruz. 

At  Cordoba  may  be 
bought  the  very  finest  fruits 
of  all  tropical  varieties — 
oranges,  lemons,  pine- 
apples, bananas,  mangoes, 
fresh  from  the  trees  and 
plants,  brought  to  the  train 
by  the  cleanest,  ' fattest, 
sleekest  Indians  imagin- 
able, old  men  and  women, 
young  men  and  maidens, 
all  w ith  something  to  sell 
and  a few  to  beg. 

Cordoba  seems  to  be  the 
gateway  of  this  route  to 
the  hot  lands.  The  lus- 
cious fruits  offered  at  the 
station  and  the  light  and 
airy  costumes  of  the  natives  indicate  this.  Here  the  tropic  Mexican  appears  in  all 
his  picturesqueness  as  he  is  seen  in  pictures — wide  of  trouser  and  broad  of  straw 
sombrero,  and  brightly  colored  costume  of  woman’s  dress. 

After  Cordoba  the  road  continues  through  a pretty  section,  crosses  the  Atoyac 
river  and  passes  within  sight  of  the  cascade,  a very  pretty  one  with  its  tropical 
surroundings.  Now  the  road  passes  through  the  cane  fields,  coffee  plantations, 
orange  groves,  and  gardens  of  mangoes,  pineapples  and  bananas,  and  comes  to  Sole- 
dad,  from  whence  the  ride  to  Vera  Cruz  is  unattractive  ; but  that  city  is  an  object  of 
intei  est  to  every  tourist  and  a stay  of  some  days  can  be  very  pleasantly  made,  during 


Folks  All  Home. 


CORDOBA  AND  JALAP  A. 


which  a trip  to  Jalapa  should  be  made  over  the  Jalapa  Railway,  whit 
the  Mexican  Railway  from  Tejeria,  a few  miles  from  Vera  Cruz,  or 


’hich  is  a branch  of 

- . — on  the  main  line. 

Hie  motive  power  is  mules — four  to  each  car,  with  relavs  every  two  hours.  The 
distance  is  70  miles,  and 
the  ascent  from  Yera  Cruz 
to  Jalapa  is  over  4,000  feet* 

The  animals  are  driven  at 
a rapid  pace,  so  that  the 
journey  is  made  in  a day 
and  the  return  in  the  same 
time,  or  perhaps  a little 
less,  as  the  mules  go  at  a 
gallop  on  the  down  trip. 

The  route  is  along  the  old 
highway  from  Vera  Cruz 
to  the  City  of  Mexico,  and, 
about  36  miles  from  Vera 
Cruz,  crosses  the  old  Na- 
tional Bridge.  The  battle- 
field of  Cerro  Gordo,  and  a 
hacienda  that  once  was 
General  Santa  Ana’s,  are 
objects  of  interest  to  be 
seen  from  the  cars.  Not  a 
mile  of  the  road  but  is  rich 
in  scenic  beauty,  and  the 
ride  is  well  worth  the  time . 

Arrival  is  at  4 p.  m.,  and 
there  is  time  for  a walk 
through  the  old  town  be- 
fore nightfall ; but  at  least  a 
day  should  be  spent  there, 
there  is  much  to  be  seen  in 
and  around  the  town.  The 
houses  are  built  in  the  old 
Spanish  style  with  barred 
windows  and  casements. 

T^e  streets  are  irregular, 
running  up  and  down  the 
steep  hillsides,  with  crooks 
and  turns.  If  Mexico  has 
seemed,  old  it  seems  to 
have  aged  in  Jalapa,  or,  all 
the  rest  of  it  is  younger. 

The  place  is  surpassingly 
clean ; lying  as  it  does  on 

the  hillsides  of  Macuilte-  las  JalapeSas  son  HalaguiSas. 

pec,  every  rain  washes 

them  thoroughly.  Back  of  the  city  is  the  white  Cofre  de  Perote , resembling  an  im- 
mense chest  or  box,  which  gives  name  to  the  mountain.  Jalapa  is  famed  for  its 
beautiful  women,  and  the  proverb  “ Las  Jalapsnos  son  halaquinas , truthfully  ap- 
plies. Bewitching,  alluring  are  the  women  of  Jalapa,  is  the  meaning,  but  not  its 


78 


'•  i-. 

MEXICO . 


literal  translation.  The  truth  of  the  saying  can  be  vouched  for  by  many  a beauty- 
loving  Americano , as  well  as  the  legend  that  the  place  is  a part  of  heaven  let  down  to 
earth.  Horse-cars  run  to  Coatepec,  six  miles  away,  fare  one  real  a trip,  well  worth 
the  ride.  The  view  is  remarkably  fine,  showing  snow-capped  mountains,  low  lands, 
and,  far  away  in  the  dim  distance,  the  sea. 

Back  again  by  the  mule  railway  to  Tejeria  and  thence  to  Yera  Cruz  by  steam 
cars  makes  another  pleasant  day,  to  which  two  or  three  may  be  added  in  wanderings 
about  under  the  palms  of  the  Almeda,  sailing  to  the  forts  and  islands  in  the  bay, 
listening  to  the  music  in  the  evening  on  the  plaza  while  you  dine,  and  one  is  ready 
to  journey  back  over  this  wonderful  railway  to  Apizaco  and  take  the  branch  to 
Puebla  de  los  Angeles. 

As  soon  as  the  train  leaves  the  station  at  Apizaco  the  beauties  of  the  ride  begin. 
Churches,  dome-shaped  granaries,  fantastically  shaped  hay  or  straw  mows  cut  as 
with  a knife  into  churches  and  crosses,  old  mills  and  aqueducts,  mountains  far  away 
and  near  by,  with  cities  and  villages  in  between  till  the  ride  seems  all  too  short. 
After  passing  Panzacola  the  Pyramid  of  Cholula  is  seen  on  the  right,  with  a church 
for  its  crest. 

After  this  the  City  of  Puebla,  lying  over  against  the  mountains,  comes  to  the  view 
—the  fort  of  Loreto  on  the  left  and  Guadaloupe  on  the  right  on  the  hills  just  out- 
side the  city. 

Puebla  has  been  a city  long  enough  to  possess  all  metropolitan  advantages, 
and  is  not  behind  the  average  Mexican  city  ; liorse-cars  lead  to  all  parts  of  the 
city  and  to  the  surrounding  villages,  making  it  quite  a railway  centre.  It  is  a city  of 
100,000  people,  located  7,100  feet  above  the  sea  level,  is  an  important  manufac- 
turing and  mercantile  point,  and  besides  is  a very  beautiful  place  with  its  streets 
wider  than  the  average  and  many  of  the  houses  decorated  with  glazed  tiles.  The 
twin  volcanoes  are  nearer  to  Puebla  than  they  are  to  the  City  of  Mexico,  and  the 
view  much  finer. 

It  is  a saying  in  Mexico,  when  speaking  of  a spendthrift,  “ He  will  never  build  a 
house  of  tiles.  ” If  houses  of  tiles  are  an  evidence  of  thrift,  Puebla  should  be  noted, 
not  for  spendthrifts  but  for  its  successful  financiers  ; tiles  are  used  everywhere. 

Puebla  onyx,  baskets  and  mats  of  colored  straw,  tiles,  pottery  and  clay  figures, 
are  among  the  things  to  buy  and  take  home.  There  is  much  to  interest,  and  the 
sojourn,  rather  than  be  missed,  should  extend  over  several  days,  as  a hurried  visit 
would  leave  undone  one  of  the  features  of  a tour  of  Mexico. 


' 


WESTWARD  OVER  THE  NATIONAL. 

.Of  TOUR  of  the  country  west,  from  the  line  of  the  Mexican  National  Railroad 
%Cy|/  over  the  Western  division  of  that  road,  is  one  of  the  most  important  to  the 
^S0  pleasure-seeking  tourist.  It  is  a good  plan  to  leave  the  city  by  an  afternoon 
train  and  spend  the  night  at  Toluca,  and  take  a west-bound  train  the  next 
forenoon.  The  ride  up  the  east  side  of  the  Madre  mountains,  the  disappearing  plain 
and  cities  and  the  hiding  from  view  of  the  volcanoes  as  the  train  enters  the  canon  on 
the  crest  of  the  mountain,  and  the  coming  to  view  of  the  valley,  city  and  volcano  of 
Toluca  as  it  rolls  down  on  the  west  side,  makes  an  attractive  side  trip,  passing  under 
the  aqueduct  that  carries  the  waters  to  the  mills  of  Jajalpaand  along  the  crest  of  the 
cliffs,  hundreds  of  feet  above  the  village  of  Ocoyocac,  so  high  that  the  church  towers 
and  houses  look  like  toys  and  the  people  pigmies. 

Leaving  the  city  from  Colonia  station  the  train  passes  under  an  old  aqueduct 
through  some  fertile  gardens  and  starts  up  the  hill ; see  Chapultepec  on  the  left  and 
the  tree  of  Noche  Triste  and  church  San  Esteban  on  the  right ; on  the  same  side  is 
the  church  of  Los  Remedios  ; then  on  through  that  valley  and  the  Hondo  and  over 
the  hill  to  the  Lerma  and  the  valley  of  Toluca,  showing  some  fine  views. 

The  hotels  of  Toluca  are  particularly  attractive,  and  a longer  stay  can  be  most 
pleasantly  made ; but  from  the  arrival  of  the  afternoon  to  the  departure  of  the 
express  the  next  morning,  the  beautiful  little  city  may  be  looked  over.  The 
markets  will  interest ; all  the  fruits  of  the  tropics  are  shown  in  a tempting  way  under 
long  roofs  supported  by  heavy  pillars  painted  in  Pompeiian  colors.  The  fruits  come 
from  the  hot  country  only  a few  leagues  southward.  The  most  lovely  flowers  are 
grown  in  the  gardens  round  about,  as  are  all  the  vegetables  of  our  midsummer 
markets. 

The  streets  are  paved  and  remarkably  clean  and  well  drained,  and  the  alameda  is 
a most  charming  little  park  in  the  centre  of  the  city.  As  I have  said,  the  hotels  are 
fine,  good  buildings,  with  patios  filled  with  lovely  flowers,  plants  and  fountains, 
both  having  baths  attached,  and  one  with  a theatre  and  Russian  and  Turkish  baths 
under  the  same  roof.  The  large  brewery  of  Toluca  makes  a beer  that  is  famous  all 
over  the  country,  and  is  equal  to  any  offered  for  sale.  Horse-cars  run  from  the 
station  to  the  plaza,  passing  a fine  statue  of  the  patriot  Hidalgo. 

•Westward,  the  route  lies  along  the  Lerma  and  through  a rich  agricultural 
country,  where  there  are  many  beautiful  haciendas  to  be  seen  from  either  side  of  the 
cars,  and  the  scenery  in  the  caiion  of  the  Zopolite  is  very  fine,  and  the  spot  of  the 
legendary  leap  of  Don  Juan  Medina,  who,  pursued  by  the  Rurales , preferred  a lea]) 
to  deatli  rather  than  a more  ignominious  but  not  less  certain  death  at  the  hands  of 
his  captors.  Then  passing  the  pretty  little  town  of  Maravatio  the  train  comes  to 
Acambaro  and  leaves  the  main  line,  turning  directly  west. 

Acambaro  lies  on  the  left  of  the  track.  The  low  adobe  houses  are  almost  hidden 
by  the  trees,  but  the  domes  of  the  churches  rise  above  them  and  stand  out  against 
the  dark  background  of  the  mountain  beyond  them.  As  the  train  circles  the  town,  the 
view  is  a very  pretty  one.  Still  passing  through  the  fertile  farming  lands  the  journey 
grows  more  interesting  with  every  mile,  interspersing  rich  haciendas  with  scenery 
wild  and  weird,  and  after  making  a quick  turn  from  between  some  hills  comes  sud- 
denly in  view  of  Lake  Cuitseo.  Circling  round  through  the  marsh  at  the  head  of  the 
lake,  where  there  are  some  salt  works,  the  train  comes  up  to  and  runs  along  the  lake 


80 


MEXICO . 


shore.  The  view  is  from  the  right  side.  It  is  a fine  body  of  water,  but  very  shallow, 
and  there  are  mountain  islands  rising  up  from  tfie  waters  in  every  direction.  One 
of  these  is  inhabited  by  a tribe  of  Indians  who  have  no  dealings  with  the  outside 
world.  On  a little  island  of  a few  acres  they  have  a little  world  of  their  own,  where 
a hardy,  healthy  band  of  contented  people  seem  entirely  oblivious  to  all  beyond 


Village  of  Ocotocac,  1,000  Feet  below  the  Track. 


the  shores  of  their  lake.  The  men  are  strong,  sturdy  fellows,  who  go  about  the  lakes 
in  long  canoes,  and  take,  with  a pole-net,  the  little  white  minnow-like  fish  on  which 
they  subsist ; dried  in  the  sun,  they  are  ready  to  be  eaten — I mean  the  fish.  The 
women  are  fine  specimens,  looking  as  if  they  might  be  warriors  if  their  little  island 
was  attacked,  but  seem  happy  in  the  little  thatched  huts  that  are  their  homes,  yet 
seeming  a very  race  of  Amazons  as  they  watched  a canoe  load  of  Americanos  land  on 
their  shores  and  prepare  to  photograph  them,  a proceeding  they  did  not  quite  under- 
stand and  looked  upon  with  distrust.  The  visit  to  this  island  was  to  me  the  most 
novel  of  all  my  adventures.  The  waters  were  covered  with  thousands  of  water  fowl 
of  all  kinds,  and  there  is  excellent  shooting.  With  a single  rifle  shot  my  companion 
killed  tv/o  pelicans,  three  gulls  and  a crane  that  were  feeding  in  the  shallow  water 
three  hundred  yards  away.  I was  loth  to  leave  so  interesting  a spot,  but  must  go  on. 
Near  the  station  on  the  lake  shore  on  the  right  see  the  columns  of  steam  rising  from 
the  marshes.  These  are  springs  of  hot  water,  hot  enough  to  boil  an  egg  hard  in  a few 
moments.  In  the  thick  brush  near  the  track  the  Indians  have  made  bathing  pools 


LAKE  CUITSEO  TO  MORELIA. 


81 


and  come  here  to  bathe,  and  the  fame  of  the  cures  is  great.  On  the  bushes  and 
sticking  in  the  ground  around  the  pools  are  hundreds  of  little  crosses  (made  by  two 
sticks  tied  together),  left  there  by  grateful  patients  who  have  been  cured  of  their  ills 
by  the  waters.  The  ground  all  about  the  springs  seems  to  be  a mere  crust,  sounds 
hollow,  and  sinks  under  the  weight  of  a person  walking  near  the  springs.  There  is  a 
strong  smell  of  sulphur,  and  just  whether  this  is  only  an  upper  crust  of  his  Satanic 
majesty’s  domain  may  be  surmised. 

From  Lake  Cuitseo  to  Morelia  the  route  crooks  and  turns  through  fertile  lands, 
passing  fine  haciendas  and  pretty  villages,  crossing  valleys  where  perpetual  running 
streams  keep  the  fields  and  gardens  green  from  summer  to  winter  and  winter  to 
summer.  When  the  reaping  of  one  crop  is  accomplished  another  is  planted,  and 
large  yields  of  corn,  wheat  and  barley  are  made. 

From  the  right  side  of  the  cars  a “ saddle”  mountain  is  seen  all  the  way  from 
Lake  Cuitseo.  It  lies  just  north  of  the  suburbs  of  Morelia,  and  is  a landmark 
showing  the  location  of  that  city. 

The  tops  of  the  towers  of  the  city  of  Morelia  may  be  seen  rising  above  the  low 
intervening  hills  while  the  train  is  yet  some  miles  away.  The  city  is  on  the  left  of 


be  track,  but  a seat  on  the  right  is  best  The  track  runs  “ 

lile  or  two  and  there  are  hundreds  of  Indian  women  washing  clothes,  these  witn 
beir<<diildren° and  th^men  waiting  to  let  their  wives  cany  the  laundry  home,  make 


“ jgSSWrS  the  most  beautiful  cities  in  all  Mexico  ; one  of  the  loveliest  in 


82 


MEXICO. 


the  world  ; a city  of  antique  interest,  hospitable  people,  superb  climate,  music, 
flowers,  and  pretty  women  ; a list  of  attractions  that  calls  for  a stop-over  ticket  of 
the  longest  limit.  In  the  city  is  the  inevitable  plaza;  but  here  it  is  a thing  of  beauty, 
and  to  the  people  a joy  forever.  The  trees  almost  hide  a finely  decorated  pagoda, 
where  three  times  a week  in  the  evening,  the  Eighth  Regiment  Band  (that  was  at  the 
first  New  Orleans  Exposition)  discourses  sweetest  music,  and  all  the  people  of  high 
and  low  degree,  come  to  sit  among  the  flowers  or  under  them,  as  they  hang  from 
trees  or  trellises,  or  to  promenade  in  endless  procession  around  the  paved  walks, 
and  drink  in  the  melodies  that  float  upon  the  perfect  summer  air.  Next  to  the 
plaza  stands  the  grand  cathedral,  whose  sonorous  bells  ring  out  the  hours  that  pass 
too  quickly,  and  before  it  is  noticed,  the  evening  is  gone,  the  band  has  played  the 
danza , and  the  parade  of  beauty  is  over  ; but  the  recollection  of  the  hour  of  dark 
eyes  and  lashes,  of  beauties  of  face  and  figure,  comes  back  when  Morelia’s 
memories  do. 

The  Paseo  de  San  Pedro  is  a stone-paved  avenue  or  walkway,  wide  and  with  stone 
balustrades  and  seats,  leading  to  the  alameda,  where  there  are  more  flowers  and  great 
trees,  some  old  churches  and  the  great  aqueduct  of  the  city’s  water  supply.  On 
either  side  of  the  Causeway  of  Guadaloupe  are  the  residences,  not  imposing  in  exte- 
rior, but  inclosing  patios  where  flowers,  the  rarest  of  the  tropics,  blooming  in  all  their 
richest  colors,  make  them  all  patios  of  paradise  let  down  for  a time  at  favored  Morelia. 
There  are  not  one  or  two  of  these,  but  scores  of  them,  and  if  I had  wondered  before 
why  Mexicans  are  seen  so  little  abroad,  I ceased  to  wonder  when  I had  seen 
Morelia. 

In  the  residences  of  Mexico  little  pretense  is  made  to  outside  display,  but  the 
interior  is  a palace  or  a paradise  of  flowers,  fountains  and  singing  birds.  I remember 
one  at  Morelia  that  was  a perfect  bower  of  flowers,  with  walls  of  alcatras , a long,  white, 
bell-shaped  flower,  with  the  sweetest  perfume  ; against  these  was  what  seemed  a bank 
of  coral  in  great  pink  bunches  which  mingled  with  some  others  of  deep  carnation,  be- 
hind which  the  broad  leaves  of  a banana  plant — this  was  the  filling  of  the  patio,  and 
there  were  playing  fountains  here  and  there  among  the  flowers. 

The  Bishop  of  Michoacan  lives  at  Morelia  ; the  city  is  also  the  capital  of  the 
State  of  that  name,  and  ha  s a population  of  35,000  people. 

The  ride  from  the  city  to  the  western  terminus  of  Mexican  National  at  Patzcuaro, 
is  picturesque' to  a degree.  From  the  left  windows  you  see  the  Cuincho  Waterfall, 
where  there  are  also  some  hot  springs  with  water  at  a temperature  sometimes  reach- 
ing a hundred  degrees. 

The  first  view  of  Lake  Patzcuaro  is  from  the  right-hand  side  of  the  cars,  and  after 
making  some  curves  on  the  hillside  high  above  the  barranca , the  train  comes  down 
to  the  shore  of  the  lake,  where  there  is  a hotel  near  the  station. 

The  city  of  Patzcuaro  is  two  miles  from  the  station,  located  high  on  the  hills, 
from  where  is  a view  of  exceeding  beauty.  Miles  of  the  lake,  dotted  with  its  dozens 
of  islands,  and  the  valley  with  nearly  fifty  towns  and  their  white-domed  churches, 
illustrate  a lovely  panorama. 

Patzcuaro  being  interpreted  means  “a  place  of  delight,”  and  was  in  bygone 
ages  a resort  of  the  kings  of  Tzintzuntzan,  who  came  here  on  their  vacations  to  rest 
from  the  cares  of  state — and  it  seems  to  me  their  choice  was  wise.  The  beauty  of 
Patzcuaro  is  in  its  quaintness,  its  narrow,  crooked  streets  with  sharp  turns  and 
angles,  with  here  and  there  a jutting  shrine  or  saintly  statue  set  within  a crumbling 
wall.  At  the  end  of  such  a street  is  the  hill  of  Calvario,  ending  so  abruptly  that  it  is 
known,  also  from  the  stone  parapet  there,  as  Los  Pa/cones.  From  this  point  may  be 
obtained  the  fine  view  of  the  city,  lake  and  valley.  The  plaza  is  shaded  by  trees;  the 
business  houses  with  heavy  columned  portales  are  on  the  four  sides.  At  night  the 


MORELIA  TO  PATZCUARO. 


83 


scene  is  peculiarly  picturesque.  The  women  venders  of  pottery  and  copper  vessels, 
vegetables,  fish,  and  fruits  from  the  hot  country  near  by,  sit  on  the  ground  sur- 
rounded by  their  wares,  placed  in  small  piles  (the  tariff  being  so  much  per  pile  in 
most  Mexican  markets)  ; little  fires  are  lighted  for  illuminating  purposes  only,  and 
the  scene  becomes  one  of  exquisite  novelty.  The  Friday  fish  market  is  a scene  of 
great  animation. 

It  will  take  a day  or  two  to  get  Patzcuaro  pat  and  then  the  visit  will  seem  too  short. 
After  this  there  is  the  tour  of  the  lake.  The  steamer  Mariano  Jiminez  leaves  the 
wharf  near  the  railway  station  and  within  a few  minutes  walk  of  the  hotel  by  the 


Island  of  the  Burros,  Lake  Cuitseo. 

lakfe,’  every  morning,  and  it  may  be  safely  written  that  there  can  be  no  more  novel 
voyage  on  any  lake  of  the  continent.  . . 

Lake  Patzcuaro  may  be  called  the  Chautauqua  of  Mexico,  but  in  its  altitude  of 
over  7,000  feet  spoils  the  Cliautauquan  legend  as  to  that  American  lake  being  the 
iighest ' navigable  water  on  the  globe,  as  it  has  been  written.  Patzcuaro  is  nigh 
up  in  the  world,  both  as  to  altitude  and  scenic 'beauty.  The  steamer  leaves  tin;  dock, 
sails  in  and  out  among  the  islands,  making  landings  there  and  on  the  mainland, 

running  about  35  miles  before  the  return  trip  is  started.  . . 

The  waters  are  very  clear  and  are  full  of  fish  which  persistently  refuse  to  bite 
at  any  hook,  but  are  taken  in  nets  at  the  end  of  long  poles,  not  unlike  a trout  net, 
only  far  greater  in  size.  Indians  in  long  narrow  canoes  with  these  nets  make  a 
part  of  a pretty  picture  as  they  paddle  about  dipping  the  nets  deep  down  in  the 

Wa  The  surrounding  scenery,  the  high  mountains  and  rocky  cliffs,  remind  one  of  the 


84 


MEXICO . 


Street  at  San  Juan  de  las  Vegas. 

natives  having  refused  an  offer  of  $60,000  for  it,  and  absolutely  refusing  to  allow  it  to 
be  removed  at  any  price. 

With  the  captain’s  permission,  one  may  leave  the  steamer  on  the  up  trip  in  a 
rowboat  and  goon  board  on  the  return,  as  the  water  is  too  shallow  to  effect  a landing 
of  the  steamer. 

Tzintzuntzan  was  once  a city  of  40,000  people  and  the  capital  of  a nation,  but 
now  a mere  village  of  less  than  a thousand  people,  whose  little  adobe  houses  can 
scarcely  be  seen  across  the  lake.  The  landing  of  a party  of  tourists  is  a great  day  in 
town,  and  the  entire  population  turn  out  to  welcome  them  and  follow  them, 
after  the  manner  of  a circus.  The  old  church  was  once  a fine  one,  now  an  in- 
teresting crumbling  relic,  but  apparently  good  for  some  centuries  to  come.  The  fine 


Hudson  and  the  Catskills,  with  the  novelty  of  the  queer  little  towns  on  the  islands  or 
the  lake  shore. 

A place  that  has  been  visited  by  all  prominent  writers  and  artists  who  have  come 
to  this  country  is  Tzintzuntzan.  They  came  before  the  steamer  was  built,  when 
the  trip  was  a "hard  one  on  horseback,  over  the  mountains,  or  perilous  by  canoe — came 
to  see  the  famous  picture  of  “ The  Entombment,”  painted  by  Titian  and  presented 
to  this  church  by  Philip  II.  of  Spain  ; a painting  of  rare  art  and  of  great  value,  the 


. 


THE  TITIAN  AT  1ZINTZUNTZAN. 


85 


old  padre  is  an  elegant  specimen  of  manhood,  over  six  feet  high  and  weighing 
two  hundred  and  fifty ; when  he  emerges  from  the  arched  doorways  of  Ins 
church,  arrayed  in  his  long  frock  and  broad  hat  of  black,  the  picture  is  complete. 
He  is  not  averse  to  a bottle  of  good  claret  or  a good  cigar,  which,  if  taken  along,  mav 
pave  the  way  to  opening  the  doors  beyond  which  hangs  the  great  Titian.  Not  to  buy  an 
entrance,  I don’t  mean,  but  as  an  offering  to  the  hermit  priest  who,  from  his  devotion 
and  exile,  deserves  some  of  the  good  things  of  life  and  would  appreciate  the  compli- 
ment. Have  you  read  of  some  mysterious  picture  kept  forever  behind  bolts  and  bars 
in  some  baronial  hall,  with  orders  that  it  should  never,  never,  never  (according  to 
the  novel)  see  the  light  of  day  ? But  the  hero,  by  fair  means  or  foul,  turns  a rusty 
key  in  a rustier  lock,  unbinds  some  clinking  chains,  and  the  heavy  door  swings 
slowly  and  reluctantly  on  creaking  hinges,  gets  there,  etc.,  etc.,  as  ’tis  in  the  novel. 
Well,  the  rusty  key,  the  bolts,  bars  and  heavy  door  must  work  by  the  good  old 
padre’s  aid  to  see  the  famous  Titian  at  Tzintzuntzan.  A sight  of  the  picture  is  worth 
all  the  journey  to  see  it.  As  I have  said,  artists  and  authors  have  undergone  the 
fatigue  and  trouble  of  a horse  and  burro  ride  over  the  mountains,  or  braved  the  dan- 
gers of  shipwreck  ; and  one,  with  his  wife  and  their  host,  experienced  a noclie  Iriste , 
and  all  but  suffered  its  reality,  spent  a night  in  a canoe  that  was  caught  in  a squall 
and  driven  before  wind  and  wave  till  dawn  came  to  show  them  where  to  steer.  They 
came  safely  into  port,  and  with  no  regret  of  the  voyage  in  search  of  a Titian. 

After  this  division  of  the  Mexican  National  Railway  is  done,  the  very  pleasant 
tour  may  be  extended  to  San  Juan  de  las  Vegas  and  San  Miguel  de  Allende  on  the 
main  line  north  from  Acambaro,  where  the  scenery  along  the  line  is  not  surpassed 
even  by  that  on  the  other  divisions.  The  track  crosses  the  Lerma  at  Acambaro  and 
passes  the  city  of  Salvatierra,  of  12,000  people.  The  fine  towers  of  the  parish  church 
may  be  seen  from  the  windows  on  the  left  side  of  the  car.  The  city  is  noted  for  its 
woollen  mills  and  other  manufacturing  interests. 


Candela  Peak  and  Carizal  Mountain. 


RAILWAY  TRAVEL  IN  MEXICO. 


SIVILIZATION  came  to  Mexico  from  the  North.  Historians  aver  that  the 
temple  and  pyramid  builders  came  thence.  Then  followed  in  their  track  the 
^ railway  builder  and  budded  the  Mexican  Central  Railway,  to  connect  the 
United  States  of  America  with  los  Estados  Unidos  de  Mejico  ; and  if  the  mooted 
“backbone  ” line  to  traverse  the  continent  from  Alaska  to  Terra  del  Fuego  is  ever 
built,  the  Mexican  Central  would  be  the  middle  division,  and  it  would  be?  the  pioneer 
line,  as  it  is  the  pioneer  line  of  Mexico  from  the  United  States. 

The  main  line  runs  from  El  Paso,  Texas,  to  the  City  of  Mexico,  following  the 
ridge  of  the  continent  at  a varying  altitude  to  render  the  course  of  travel  pleasant 
at  all  seasons. 

At  Torreon,  near  the  city  of  Lerdo,  the  connection  of  the  Mexican  International 
Railroad  is  made,  receiving  through  business  in  through  trains  from  New  Orleans 
and  the  Southeast,  notably  the  famous  “Montezuma  Special,”  a magnificent  train  of 
Pullman  Yestibuled  cars — parlor,  buffet,  dining  and  sleeping  cars — all  under  one 
roof  and  running  solid  from  New  Orleans  to  the  City  of  Mexico. 

At  Aguas  Calientes  there  is  a line  extending  to  the  city  of  San  Luis  Potosi  and 
to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  at  Tampico. 

At  Silao  the  branch  road  connects  for  the  great  mining  town  of  Guanajuato. 

At  Irapuato  a line  extends  to  that  grand  and  ancient  city  of  Guadalajara,  with  an 
ultimate  destination  on  the  Pacific  coast  at  San  Bias,  making  a transcontinental  line 
involving  still  shorter  voyages  on  both  oceans. 

The  Mexican  Central  crosses  the  Mexican  National  at  Celaya. 

At  the  City  of  Mexico,  the  southern  terminus,  the  Mexican  Central  connects  with 
the  Mexican  Railway  for  Puebla,  Esperanza,  Orizaba,  Vera  Cruz  and  Jalapa,  with 
the  Interoceanic  Railroad  for  Amecameca,  Cuautla,  Yautepec,  Texcoco,  Puebla, 
Jalapa  and  Vera  Cruz,  and  under  construction  to  Acapulco  on  the  Pacific,  and  with 
the  Mexican  National  Railroad  for  Toluca,  Morelia,  Patzcuaro  and  San  Miguel  de 
Allende. 

Excursion  tickets  are  on  sale  at  all  important  ticket  offices  in  the  United  States 
and  Canada  to  the  City  of  Mexico  and  principal  cities  of  the  Republic  at  low  rates 
of  fare  for  the  round  trip,  good  to  return  six  months  from  date  of  sale. 

Stop-over  checks  are  issued  by  conductors  at  any  point  where  it  may  be  desired. 
California  excursionists  may  stop  off  at  El  Paso  and  other  junctional  points,  and  on 
presentation  of  their  California  coupons,  purchase  a ticket  for  a tour  into  Mexico  at 
greatly  reduced  rates,  enabling  them  to  add  Mexico  to  the  tour,  and  increase  its 
attractions  and  pleasures. 

The  trains  of  the  Mexican  Central  have  Pullman  Palace  Sleeping  Cars  on  all 
through  express  trains,  and  all  trains  run  solid  from  El  Paso  to  the  City  of  Mexico, 
making  a perfect  service  involving  but  one  change  of  cars  from  the  principal  cities 
of  the  United  States  to  those  of  Mexico. 

i The  management  of  the  railway  exercises  a supervision  over  all  restaurants  and 
eating-houses,  and  trains  stop  for  meals  at  reasonable  hours. 

The  baggage  regulations  are  the  same  as  in  the  United  States  ; to  the  holders  of 
through  or  excursion  tickets  issued  in  the  United  States,  viz.,  one  hundred  and 
liftv  pounds  on  each  full  first-class  ticket,  and  seventy-five  pounds  on  half  tickets  ; 
the  age  for  half  tickets  is  between  five  and  twelve  years,  under  five  years,  free; 


ABIOS. 


87 


on  local,  or  tickets  purchased  in  Mexico,  thirty -three  pounds  is  the  limit  of  baggage 

carried  free. 

In  short,  all  the  facilities,  all  the  comforts,  all  the  luxuries  to  which  the  American 
traveler  is  accustomed  on  the  home  roads,  are  to  be  found  on  the  railways  of  Mexico, 
to  which,  for  the  novelty  and  pleasure  of  the  journey,  add  all  that  Mexico  offers  in  the 
scenic  and  antiquity  point  of  view,  as  hinted  at  in  the  preceding  pages. 


Cathedral  at  Morelia. 


SUBURBS  OF  THE  CITY  OF  MEXICO. 


